Clutch pedal sticking to floor

96 4x4 v6 ext cab MT 196k

Recently my clutch pedal will not pull back from floor after depressed. I have to get my toe under it and physically pull it back. Why is this happening, is this the first symptom of my clutch needing to get replaced? I've got 196k miles on the manual transmission, no problems to speak of, never have done anything to the clutch/transmission other than fluid replacement.

So what do u guys think it is?

And if its a basic maintenance thing, can I do it myself? I've changed upper/lower ball joints before along with pretty much all moderate level difficulty maintenance...can I do this too?

Thanks for the help!

 

fluid leak is what mine was when same thing happened to my 4runner, was a break in the slave cyl. hard line

 

clutch master cylinder mine was doing the same thing. I replaced it problem went away.

 

Here is a quick video of the problem just for thoroughness:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTDQNmjNRpQ

I can't even get it into reverse now to back it out.

I've never noticed any fluid leakage ever so I don't think it is the hard line se7.

Ethanfoy, is what was happening to you the same as the video? Is replacing the master cylinder pretty simple? I don't need to drop the tranny or anything right?

Anybody else experience this?

 

X2 Same thing happened on my 98

 

no the clutch master cylinder is on the fire wall its very easy. I cant really explain how to do it but when you bleed it just gravity bleed it much more simple to do it by yourself.

 

alright im going to try to explain it. on the fire wall will be your clutch master cylinder there will be rod that runs through to the clutch unhook it. disconnect the brake line. put new one master cylinder on. put line back on go down to slave cylinder it wil be on the driver side of trans. open bleeder valve pour brake flood in master cylinder let it sit for a while so that it will bleed it self.

 

Doesn't sound too bad. It does sound like the master cylinder. Is there a way to tell if its the slave instead?

 

Check your clutch pedal assembly.

They're notorious for wearing out the bushings. If the bushing is completely gone, you're wearing away at the metal pivot point. It could be getting stuck on the pivot point.

Here's a writeup on the pedal bushing.
http://www.lieblweb.com/clutchbushing.html

 

Checked the writeup, I'm 99.99% sure that this isn't the problem. I was aware of the bushing squeak many years ago when I was having the sound (still do). But it doesn't line up with the problem.

Update: I looked at the fluid level on the clutch master cylinder...the fluid is clean and full. There doesn't appear to be any leaking on or around the master cylinder, everything looks good. The slave cylinder is obviously more dirty but I didn't really see anything wrong there either. The haynes manual troubleshooting section is useless.

I just want to be sure its the master cylinder before I go ordering parts. How do I definitively tell that that is the problem? And how do I distinguish between that and the slave cylinder being the problem?

Thanks for the help so far!

 

the clutch master cylinder isnt that expensive unless you get aisin parts which is always the best choice. I bought the cheapest one i could find which was 25 dollars and it has lasted me over a year if it goes out ill replace it with aisin. but not untill then. It could be your slave cylinder first thing i would do is bleed it to see if it helps. if not its more than likely your master cylinder.

 

My money is on clutch master cylinder. It sounds exactly like my problem I had. I replaced the slave... same symptoms. Replaced the master... all gone like new.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/277998-clutch-issue.html#post6896691

 

Madjik, I read through that thread...I'm starting to be convinced that its the master. I'll have my GF depress the pedal slowly a few times and see if the slave moves.

Otherwise I'm going to go ahead and order the master. It sounded like you had some problems with the installation as far as the clevis or making the adjustments right to avoid the clutch engaging to "high". What can you suggest as far as avoiding this and doing a clean swap?

 

When you remove the old one, lay it next to the new one and adjust the clevis on the new one to match the old.

I didn't do that at all when I installed mine and it wasn't that it was engaging too high it was just so friggen tight because the clevis on the new one was way farther up the shaft than the old.

Just a slight PITA to remove the cotter pin and adjust it installed... but it sure would have made life easier if I just lined them up like above.

 

Just an FYI. Before I even replaced the slave (which I did first) and master cylinder, my daughter would push on the clutch pedal and I'd see the slave cylinder moving the clutch fork just fine.

 

Any idea how I could distinguish between the master and slave cylinder being the problem?

Also, I've searched around for the correct AISIN part number but am coming up with a few possibilities. Anybody know of a good resource I can use to check? Or even what the part number is? Its a 96 4x4 v6 ext cab MT

 

$51 AISIN CMT-030 OE Matched Clutch Master Cylinder - Compatible with Select Toyota T100, Tacoma

http://www.amazon.com/Aisin-CMT-030-Clutch-Master-Cylinder/dp/B000JZDBE8

Thats the one I found.

 

rockauto.com has good prices

 

A clutch slave will leak to the outside world and be visible.

The piston/seal at the red arrow is the only thing between the fluid inside the slave cylinder and a mess on the side of the bell housing.

 

Ok.

I ordered the

$51 AISIN CMT-030 OE Matched Clutch Master Cylinder - Compatible with Select Toyota T100, Tacoma

AISIN CMT-030 from Amazon. I'll report back here if I have any installation issues. Otherwise I'm going to get some Dot-3 fluid. Hopefully 12oz is enough...