Boost Gauge!

Dezod.com sells different AEM EMS'. Depending on the level of functionality, will determine the cost. Talk with Paul there, and he can give you the information you need to make a sound decision.

Secondly, You can push past 400 if you like. But that is already twice the stock wheel hp. The only people that are in that area are URD MKIII & turbo people.

400 whp is good for stock. Safe tune. Get internals if you want to push past that. Trust me.

 

Roger on all, thanks a bunch torspd

 

Found when I installed the volant my wideband jumped to 11.4, after that I did the fpr mod and it went back down to 10.6. Installing the 2.85 stealth tomorrow and we will see what the wideband reads. Then I'll be done until factory warranty expires. Trying to get away with leaving pump stock. Next week Tim to play with the raptor group.

 

Going to warn you right now. Upgrade your pump.

 

Torspd...

If our fuel air is peg'd out at rich with the 2.825 pulley if I drop to a smaller one do I still need to upgrade fuel pump? I am obviously getting ample fuel...

 

Fuel pump feeds the injectors. Injectors feed the engine.

Just because the injectors are "open" and dumping fuel, doesn't mean that the pump is on the verge of being maxed out for its HP capacity.

Gadget had already tested the HP levels long ago on the factory fuel pump. With Similar sized injectors on his MKI setup. (Basically made similar power levels as a modded TRD) Kept going lean in higher rpms. Even though they were commanding more fuel. Thus a pump was needed.

~$150 + or - for a pump kit from Dezod or URD, or the potential cost of going lean, causing knock, and having to get a new engine. Hmmmmm...

 

Roger that, anyone have a snout turning tool they could loan a brother?

 

I have a question about that snout tool. Why would one need to machine the supercharger down? Why wouldn't you just machine the pulley to a larger id? I assume im not the first to ask this, but wouldn't you just pull the old pulley off, measure its id with calipers, measure the of the snout, figure your press fit tolerating and then apply it to the machining id of the new pulley?

I would rather be running tools on the pulley not the charger snout, but thats me.

 

If you make the OD of the pulley .25 or .5" smaller than stock the snout is too big, the snout was designed for a 3" not a 2.7 or 2.5".
The 2.825" needs no mod to the snout just only slightly decreases clearance.

I think

 

When the O.D. of the pulley gets smaller, so does the I.D. When the pulley gets to a small enough size, the snout has to be cut.

URD sells the tool. Super simple to use.

If you don't want to go smaller, get the Snakebite Upgrade from Steigmier (? spelling). But build your engine first.

 

The snout cutter cuts the snout, not the shaft. But like tor said, as you go smaller the clearance becomes an issue between the inside of the pulley and the body of the supercharger unit aka snout. It would be easier to show a pic i guess

 

Here's an example of the tool in use, you would have found this in my build thread

 

BAM

 

Ahhhhh this makes sense now, I didnt know it was that close of a fit to the housing, I never really looked at it that well. I always thought they were changing the shaft diameter and was like "well thats effing stupid".

 

Yeah you really need a picture to picture it in your mind way better lol glad it helped

I would have gave you mine, but I sold my cutter already

 

With pulley installed I'm at 11.2 wot. on bone stock fuel. I'll pick up a old supra denso or 255 on ebay for 40 bucks.

 

I love how every time I see a thread with boost in the title I find Torspd.

 

Be mindful not to get a knockoff Chinese Walbro. Plenty are floating around out there.