How To: Replacing Carrier Bearing

Great Post

 

Nice write up JPP. +1

Subbed for future.

 

I just replaced mine, but I screwed up! I got so excited I forgot to mark the flange to spline shaft alignment with a sharpie (marked all others though). I had some vibrations at 40 mph. Moved it one spline clockwise and it got better (now vibes most noticeable at 65 mph). Going to try the next spline clockwise tonight to see if that makes it any better.

The only way I can think to fix this is trial and error. Suggestions?

Thanks from a new member!

 

There are a lot of variables in the equation, that is understood. However, at approximately what mileage are you guys replacing these? Thanks

 

I replaced mine using this info and had no problems; my brother-in-law is a mechanic and got me a National center bearing (Part #HB-26) for free as a birthday present

 

I had 200k on mine.

 

Excellent Post! Thank you for doing this. Used the instructions this past weekend. start to finish about 2 hours. I had 116K on mine, and when I had the old one off I spun it on my fingers and you could tell it was out of orbit.

With the new one, my ride has improved, much, much smoother, I had no idea how sloppy the driveline was until I had the new one on.

 

From Rock Auto parts catalog:
DEA Part # A6071
1.1811" Bearing I.D.; RWD
1.1811" Bearing I.D.; column shift; RWD

$28.89

DEA Part # A6070
1.1811" Bearing I.D.; floor shift

$28.89

DORMAN Part # 934401 {#3723034030, 3723034040, 3723035130}


$40.79

TIMKEN Part # HB31 2.3125 Width
4WD; Rear

$72.79

TIMKEN Part # HB26 2.29 Width
Rear; RWD

$73.79

NATIONAL Part # HB31 Includes bearing and support; Bore=1.1811", Outer Diameter=4.3415", Width=2.3125"
RWD

$79.79

SKF Part # HB238040 {#3723035120, 3723035130} Driveshaft Support Bearing
Bearing & Support (Only 2 Remaining)

* Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 2 business days
$113.79

 

Replaced mine yesterday with no problems at all, Didn't even have to use my jaw puller I just wiggled the bearing off.

 

First let me say. AWESOME write up. Thank it was very helpful. I didn't need the jaw puller as the flange and bearing pulled right off by hand. Didn't even need a vice when using the impact to back the nut off. Getting under the indent on the nut to get it to where it could come off was a pain. I ended up having to use a punch to get under it enough to even get a screw driver on it. I think it was the factory original. It had some paint on it.

I also did not think to mark the flange to spline shaft alignment, but did mark both the front and back flanges. The spline marking was not in the original post. What I did was put the front back in but didn't tighten the flange nut down. Then I rotated splines until I thought I had it lined up. But then realized my rear wheels were free to spin (probably not a good idea). So now I'm thinking, the front flange is the same, and the flange to the rear shaft is the same but I think I too am a few splines off. Will this make a difference?

If so. PLEASE add a note regarding doing this in the original write up.

Also. I'm assuming this would have been said if it were an issue or not. Some fluid came out of my front shaft flange when I separated it.

The bolts are VERY tight. I used the crows feet but would recommend finding the closed end versions like the above link/alternative used.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/269127-new-rear-u-joint-now-fine-driveline-vibes.html#post6618279

I did use a socket on the front flange bolts but only two wrenches / crows foot wrench worked for the rear 14mm bolts and nuts.

I also assume that I was not supposed to add any additional grease to this setup since it wasn't mentioned? or was I?

Going to go take it out on the interstate to see if my 60-70 shake is gone.

btw. here are some pictures.



and a video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkdIAOYNZAk&feature=share&list=UU5928v_N36DnExEInJmdBhw

 

My shake at 60-65 is still there... goes away just over 70.

I'm pretty sure it's tie rods / front end related. Tomorrow I'm rebuilding the entire front end and will get an alignment Monday. If that doesn't solve the shake - I'll forfeit and and have to pay a shop to figure it out.

 

Are you lifted? If so, how much in the rear?

 

Some days I hate TW. This place makes me paranoid.


Sure enough, mine wiggles just like the videos, but I'm only at 75k. Is my lift causing abnormal wear or do I just have a crap part?

Yet another project

 

I think the shafts do have to be in phase, meaning that they are balanced together at the factory and the alignment between them needs to be marked on the flange to spine shaft too. Mine got better and worse when I tried different spline positions (6 different ones all said and done, moving clockwise). Finally just found what I thought felt like the least vibes and left it. I noticed a bad u joint just after doing the carrier bearing and replacing it made the biggest difference. I also can't rule out front end causes and mis balanced tires for the remaining vibes. But it's pretty minimal vibes now. Just my 2 cents.

 

I wasnt lifted at all until now. I just put the rear toytec adjustable shackles on at the middle 1.5" setting.

I read somewhere else that up to a half inch is ok movement here. I didn't believe it until now. I guess if it is a factory balanced unit then any vibes still get absorbed by the extra inch surrounding rubber. I think if I am off, its only a spline or three.. And will still be absorbed by the new bushing.

I had my girlfriend follow me on the interstate yesterday, she confirmed I have a clearly visible drivers side front tie rod wobble at 65.

Pulling apart the front completely now Wish me luck.

 

Update to myself: I checked on another member's truck and he has about half my mileage. He also wiggles, so I'm thinking the wiggle test only works if everything else is at factory spec. I'm no longer concerned and will save my worry for all those other parts

 

great DIY!

booo! now I have to check this one also.
I am at 76k.

 

Hope you get the tie rod fixed.

I've come to appreciate a couple of things as it pertains to the driveline that I didn't when I lifted my truck:

1) Mark all flanges. It doens't cost anything and it doesn't hurt to re-install them with the alignment marks you've made. If you make an "uh-oh" attemp to line the u-joints back up and make sure the bolts from one assembly line up with the adjoining assembly (weight balancing).

2) I don't see a ton of people on TW advocating the use of axle shims, but all of the local jeep guys do religiously. I'm building a road race S10 truck and when we lowered it, we shimmed the rear axle then. I've decided my truck needs it to. In fact, I emailed Toytec and they recommended the appropriate angle of shim for my amount of lift.

Everything I've seen typically follows this rule for lift/lowering:

2 degrees = 2" of lift/lowering
3 degrees = 3" of lift lowering
4 degrees = 4" of lift/lowering

I'm not sure that is in Revelations or anything, but it appears to be a rule of thumb. Regardless, shimming should be done. If you think about it, it makes sense. If the pinion flange doesn't rotate up to match the driveshaft, it's essentially binding the u-joints. The suspension compensates by creating momentary axle wrap (pinion torquing up to un-bind u-joints) and thus you get a driveline vibration...or at least that's how my mind envisions it.

 

not bad I guess 0.o

if it solves my vibes, ill be happy! thanks for the write up, cant wait to get this installed.

 

This is very good, detailed information.

I picked up my Dorman CB on Amazon Prime for $44.23 w/ free two day shipping:

$57 Dorman 934-401 Drive Shaft Center Support Bearing Compatible with Select Toyota Models

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VTT5LK/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1