Oregon and Washington BS thread

Also the small amount of brake fluid that I see(which was bled from the one successful brake) was still really clean

 

Mike (Chickenmunga) and I recently got extended lines, and long story short, we ended up bleeding both our trucks a total of three times each.

It sounds like you are doing the process correctly - the only thing I would suggest is switching spots with your buddy (so you can make sure the valve is getting opened/closed at the appropriate time.

Start with the Rear Pass-side. Put a flare wrench on the bleeder valve, and slide your tubing over the nipple. Have your buddy pump the brakes 5-6 times, and hold to the floor. Loosen the valve until brake fluid comes out, and check for air bubbles. Tighten the valve, and he can left off the brake pedal. Repeat this process 3-4 times, or until you only see fluid bleeding out (no air bubbles). Check the brake fluid reservoir after each wheel.

Move to the Rear Driver's-Side, then Frt. Pass, then Frt. DS.

Here's a thread I sub'd for when I do my brakes (in about 40k). Might be useful also:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/38025-diy-front-brake-pad-change.html

 

Ya I swapped with him and was opening the valve. Although yes much more experienced than I am with cars so I figured he knows what he's doing. I fully took off The bleed screw and absolutely nothing was coming out. Not even dripping out or anything. I would try go back and look at it but I started worked recently. I am planning on just taking it to the Americas tire in Tualatin this weekend unless you guys know a better shop.

 

Very weird. Did you have the vehicle On (not running, just on) or Off?

 

I'll also say that I tried doing my own lines with a one-man-tool because I got antsy and thought I could do it all myself. I got to about the point where Cameron was. I still had fluid, but I felt like I was adding air instead of taking it out. I pumped a full bottle through the system before giving up.
Eventually I went to Les Schwab to have them bleed my lines (I was desperate and got to the point where the brake light was kicking on with how much air I had in the lines). Talking to them, they said they have had trouble with this generation of Tacos (note: the 4R is very similar), and they do some sort of 'gravity bleed' method. I don't know what that is, but the brakes were back to being OK.

I wish I could figure out what Alan did (the guy who moved from Washington to Texas). He let me drive his truck once and his brakes grab like a MOFO. So much better than the mush I have. If anyone has his screen name we need to beat him up for answers.

EDIT: The flare nut wrenches are a MUST! Don't mess up your nuts!

 

The car was off. E brake off. Not sure what a flare wrench is but we didn't have any trouble getting the bolts out. I did bleed the one brake that we were able to change before we moved on and ran into problems. But that wouldn't be the cause would it?

 

You might try it with the ignition on (again, not started, just on). This guy had a similar problem as you: A is not required, but it help prevent rounding off the nut.

 

^^ this, I have a Warn M8000 and just opened the solenoid box and attached wires for in cab control. There are a few companies out there that make a simple kit to do it as well. This is one... http://www.roadlessgear.com/Toyota/p/2290/dash-mounted-winch-control

 

Hmm nice find. Does seem like that guy had the same problem as me. I didn't take my calipers off though. What difference does having the engine on do? Does it turn on that booster pump? Just wondering if that's only affecting the fronts. Since my driver side rear also showing no fluid.

On a side note, what kind of grease you guys Use for squeaks? Right where my front passenger side shock connects to the lower A arm is squeaking like crazy. Even if the road looks flat I can still hear it. I know it's coming from there because the last time I changed oil I had my gf jump on the car when I was underneath.

I'm just really hoping the bushing or something isn't worn because I'm not looking forward to having to take the front suspension off.

 

Munkel, that's really not a bad price. Costs about same or less than the individual parts.
The one I saw was stupid spendy.

 

I have a keg I want to convert into a fuel tank for my '85 project. Doing some research annnnnd post #11...http://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?28072-Beer-Keg-Gas-tanks/page2&

Anyone know where to pick up demilitarized bomb shells? I'm sure the NSA is shitting bricks over my recent search history lol.

Edit: http://www.omahas.com/practice-bomb-100lb-inert Now we are talking!

 

Where you thinking of this one? http://www.offroadcontrols.com/2orcprod.htm Theey are local but way too spendy IMO.

 

oops, that wasn't the link I was thinking of, that is affordable as well.

 

Another one, http://www.12voltguy.com/WINCH-TOGGLES.html, get's expensive with the harness I guess.

I still like what this guy did though.



Oh wait, that's my switch....

 

Your engine needs to be running when you bleed brakes. It's a vacuum assisted system. You don't have any vacuum going to the brake booster if the engine is not running. That will most likely solve your issue.

 

The one I saw was about $120 but looked similar to your last link.

engine on or just key in ON position? I've never heard engine fully on, maybe that's what I do wrong.

 

At this point, I might even recommend trying to gravity bleed the brakes. Takes a bit longer but pretty difficult to screw up and will get the air out of the system.

 

Ok I'm wondering same thing as mike. Someone said earlier to have it in the on position. So just wanna double check it's just on position not actually having the engine running.

And gravity bleed as in just open the valve and wait for it to drip out?

 

I'm going to try again with the ignition on the on position. 1 last question. How do you guys compress the front since there are 4 pistons?

 

You want the engine running. You don't gain anything by having the ignition on. The brake cylinder is mechanical so by turning the ignition on you don't gain anything. The engine needs to be running to create vacuum, which assists the brake cylinder. You'll notice a black hose that runs to the brake cylinder. That's your brake vacuum hose. The only wires you'll ever see running to the cylinder are attached to the reservoir for the warning light. If you have atrac or any other electronic traction assistance you'll have wires that run to the distribution block. But, the only thing that does is regulate pressure to each wheel when wheel spin is present. So, you can see that having the ignition gains you nothing.

Below is what you need to do to remove a large air bubble in your system, which is what I believe is your issue.

Start the engine.

Make sure e brake is off.

Begin at rear pass brake, have assistant pump 3-5 times and hold. Open nipple. If fluid comes out, close nipple and have assistant release brake. If fluid does not come out, repeat. If fluid still does not come out then leave nipple open and have assistant pump until fluid is present. Once present, have assistant hold the brake while you close nipple.

Repeat at rear driver's, front pass, and front driver's in that order. Once fluid is present at all four corners then you can properly bleed the system.


At all times, make sure the brake pedal is deressed prior to closing the nipple. If you close it while the brake is not depressed then you'll trap air in your system. Also, make sure your fluid does not run out while bleeding the system or you'll start over again.