tooter 2.7 intake manifold spacer...

HP and torque are on different scales (note right and left side) so the lines do not cross at 5250.
Notice on the supercharged chart, at 5598, hp is 227.74 and tq is 242.71, but the lines are at the same point.

 

That might have applied more to carbureted intakes where the fuel is atomized before it travels through the intake manifold.

Old cars even had intake manifold heaters that ducted some exhaust through the manifold, and valves that drew in exhaust manifold heated air into the air filter housing...



You can see the hot air valve in the snorkel, although there's no heat tube because it has aftermarket headers on it.

 

Yes. That is correct. Check the 2625 rpm values. The scales may lack enough graduation marks, but the the data looks off to me.

 

Yea after i posted I thought about how it might only apply to a carburetor.
Have you looked at getting one of the for your tacoma.
http://urdusa.com/Electronics-Perfo...1/URD-MAF-Sensor-Calibrator/product_info.html
Haven't seen much stuff about it for the 2.7 but its made by a reputable company

 

It's right....
Left side graduations are 5 per, 2625 it's close to 65 hp
Right side graduations are 4.166666666 per, it's at maybe 127tq (next graduation would be 129.16 and 2625 is just below that)
5250 is running 115 or so hp and torque is about halfway between 100 and 125, or in the ballpark of 113.

The right side graduations don't line up with the numbers.
Left side, there's 5 graduations between each number with a 25pt spread.
Right side there's 6 graduations between each 25pt spread... or "about" 6, looks like 150 starts to ride high, graduations might be 4.

 

Whats this about hp and torque equaling at 5250rpms? Never heard of that in my life.

 

Dynos measure torque.
HP is a function of torque.

As stated, hp = ( tq * rpm ) / 5250

Therefore, when RPM = 5250, the equation becomes hp = ( tq * 5250 ) / 5250
Multiply both sides by 5250: hp * 5250 = tq * 5250
Divide both sides by 5250: hp = tq

If the dyno chart does not cross the hp/torque lines at 5250, then the hp/torque scales are not the same, as is the case with the Dynojet chart above.
If you look at my Mustang chart (and yes, it stops just above 3000), and extend the lines following the curve, you'll find that they WOULD cross at 5250.

 

Ahuh. I'ma look into that more.

 

Dug out my old V6 Dyno, pre-supercharged:

 

It likely is, but I've never considered buying anything like that because I know absolutely nothing about how to use it.

 

Same thing... HP and Torque aren't on the same scale, so they cross at a different (lower) RPM.

Can't really read it, but it looks like at 5250 you're around 170 for both.

 

I think it comes with its own small wiring harness that you plug into the existing harness. You tell the urd company the mods you have on your truck and they will load an engine map to retune the fuel curve. Supposedly these trucks run kinda rich from the factory. If you have some special tools ( i think a wideband gauge) you can even fine tune the fuel curve for your truck on a dyno.

 

At the dyno shop they had an A/F sniffer on during the baseline runs and my truck was running on the lean side at WOT so I don't think loading an even leaner map would help. For now, I think I'll just go with the factory tune if only for the sake of simplicity.

These mods are all actually pretty mild because my Taco is used as a daily driver utility work truck. It never goes off road, and is never used for recreation. It only has a header with the rest of the exhaust system left stock, an aftermarket intake, and the manfold spacer.

The spacer has made my truck much more serviceable, as in my local business I'm crawling up and down steep narrow winding canyon roads in first and second gear every day.

So you see, this really thick spacer idea came about from a personal need to give my engine more torque at very low rpms. And the more I'm driving with it, the happier and more satisfied I am with the results.

This same end could also have easily been achieved with lower final gearing. But that would also mean giving up the excellent gas mileage during high speed freeway driving. I just couldn't bear to throw away 28mpg by compromising the economical high 3.31 street gearing. So this was the next best choice for me, to get more low end pull without giving up gas mileage to get it.

 

That last paragraph says a lot. Most people don't realize the huge difference that final drive gearing provides. A higher gear ratio can hurt you on the interstate but it can also help you. In your case, your truck has very little rolling weight to push, is lighter, even with your gear, then a lot of other trucks and has better aero dynamics. So at 75 its quit effortless for the motor to keep that speed, thus the great gas mileage. In my instance, I have a much higher rolling resistance weight, a much higher truck weight overall, and much worse aero dynamics at speeds. So a lower final drive for me actually improved my mpg by 2 on interstate runs because the motor is struggling as much. It's all about the application.

 

Hey Greg, that looks like an Optima red top battery in your engine compartment. Did you swap out the OEM battery already? If so, any particular reason?

 

I had that two year old Optima in my 1996 Tacoma. Before I sold it I swapped out the one year old OEM battery for that one. My last Optima lasted me for ten years... and never leaked even one tiny droplet of acid. I never put anything else in my vehicles but Optima batteries.

 

Hey Tooter, in another thread on improving mpgs you mentioned your tires and wheels helping mpgs. What tires and wheels are you running?

 

Sure.
I went from 245/75/16 off road truck tires...



...to 235/60/16 Yokohama passenger car tires.




The wheels are 16X7 +35 offset 5X114.3 (5X4.5") Enkei Compe Matte Bronze wheels.

 

My apologies if I misspoke.

 

Come on. Chris... we want to see some real groveling.

Greg