Wiring LED lightbar to high beams

Well, I don't know what else to do cus I've checked it all about 5 times if not more now and it's wired EXACTLY how the diagram you posted shows.

Led bar negative goes to ground, positive goes to 87 on relay. 85 goes to ground, 86 goes to pin 5 on switch and jumped to pin 2, 30 is fused power for relay in which I have split after the fuse and it goes to pin 6. Pin 1 & 3 are capped. Pin 7 is ground. Pin 4 is blank as that's where the high beam tap goes. I've checked it over and over again, everything is right.

 

Hmm... sounds like everything is wired correctly. So it's a double throw switch, when you put the switch in the other position, the LED operates as it should?

I'll check to see which of the three wires I tapped for the high beam tap when I get to my truck.

 

Yes, it's a DPDT. 7 terminal. In the other position the light operates as it should. I just can't get the high beam part working correctly.

On the 3 prong connector that the headlight bulb attaches to I'm guessing one is a ground which will do nothing for the switch. One is for the positive low beam which if wired to the switch the light should only come on with the low beams and go off when high beams are turned on. The last one is for positive high beam which obviously works opposite of low beam. However, assuming tapped to the low beam, the light bar comes on when the headlights are on no matter what. This tells me that it's not just the low beam power for this prong is for headlight power in general. When tapped to the assumed high beam positive the switch causes the high and low beam to be toggled. This tells me that this is the prong that activates the high and low beam toggle. I only have one headlight for high and low beam. It would make sense for it to work this way. So that leaves me with having to find the correct wire to tap into that doesn't necessarily tell the headlight to switch high and low beams but to get power only when the high beam toggle is activated.

 

Is it possible that the older 4Runners are negatively switched? If that's the case, you might have to do things a bit differently but it explains some of the anomolies... 2nd Gen Tacomas are positively switched which means the ground is always available and things are cycled on and off my the power supply. Negative switch means the power is always there but things are cycled on and off by suppling the ground. I'm doing some searching now to see how the older 4Runners are wired.

 

Can you get a test light or multi-meter to determine what you have at the headlight socket? You might have one power wire and 2 grounds instead of 2 power and 1 ground. That could be whats going on with your setup.

 

I may be able to check that out. Would have to wait till later this evening or some time this weekend.

 

Sorry man, the thought of your 4Runner being negatively switched never even crossed my mind. I've never had to wire a vehicle that's negatively switched. If it is negatively switched, it's still possible but some wires will have to be moved around a bit.

 

It's ok.. This is a tacoma forum after all lol.

What exactly am I looking for when I meter the 3 positions on the plug?

 

You just want to find out if you have 2 positives or 2 grounds. 2 positives means your wiring diagram is correct and there's something else going on, 2 grounds means you'll need a different wiring diagram.

 

what will the meter show if it's two grounds.. Nothing? lol

So if it's positively switched I should have separate voltages on 2 of the inputs no matter high beam or not and nothing on the 3rd and then negatively switched I'll have voltage at one input and none on one and one I'll see voltage depending if the highbeam is on or off? Or will negatively switch be one with voltage and the 2 others no voltage no matter what?

couldn't I just check for +12 volts at the headlight when the lights are off? If there's voltage that means they're negative switched right?

 

If it's positively switched, you'll have one ground and one wire with power with the low beams on and the other wire will have power with the high beams on.

If it's negatively switched, you'll only have one power wire and that wire will have power whether the low or high beams are on, the other 2 will be grounds.

You can check for voltage with the truck off, I'm not sure how that part of negative switching works (like if there's power there full time or not, but in theory, there should be).

 

I'm currently reading into this right now..

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?315305-Toyota-Negative-Switched-Headlight-Signal

 

Damn Pugga, you just blew my mind. I have some led fog lights I have wired up real quick but I'm going to be getting another led light bar and I will seek your help and BAMA's help in the future. Subbed for further use and also took some screen shots so I can look stiff over when work is slow.

 

If you run into issues, let me know. The wiring diagram will definitely work for you, none of that negatively switched funkiness on 2nd Gens

 

Pugga, would an issue be between terminals 2 and 5 on the switch.. Since they're jumped from the relay?

 

No, the jump between 2 and 5 is only for the lights on the switch. That power is outgoing from the switch to the relay. If it's positively switched, that jump isn't an issue. If the headlights are negatively switched, I'll send you a new wiring diagram because it changes everything.

 

I'm 100% certain that my 4runners headlights are negative switched. It's been verified. The 01's and 02's had daytime running lights. Those were positive switched.

 

OK, based on that, try this out. To anyone else reading THIS IS FOR NEGATIVELY SWITCHED HEADLIGHTS ONLY.

Wire from the positive side of the battery, through the fuse and go directly to the LED bar and pin 86 on the relay.
30 - This wire should ground to the frame
87 - This wire should come from the ground side of the light bar
86 - Incoming power as mentioned above
85 - This wire comes from Pin 5 on the switch

Pin 4 - Ground to the frame
Pin 5 - Comes from relay as mentioned above and keep this jumped to pin 2
Pin 6 - Ground from the high heam negative switch
Pin 7 - This now has to be power in for the switch LEDs

This should make everything work. This makes your switch a ground switch rather than controlling the power side.

 

I'll give it a shot when I get home, wish me luck!

 

Good luck! I'm really curious to see how it works out. Should work well for you, but that's my first wiring diagram for a negatively switched setup.