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Let's See Your Dogs!!

Discussion in 'Pets' started by TJOPILOT, Sep 8, 2007.

  1. Aug 14, 2013 at 7:28 AM
    #8041
    ian408

    ian408 Well-Known Member

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    I have found it helps (whether land or water) to begin by throwing just a short distance-a few feet. Increase the distance as your pup retrieves with greater consistency, if his consistency at the longer distance decreases, go back to a shorter distance. Like kids, dogs are more distracted at a young age. So when you see that happening, go for a short toss-reward him for doing a good job and end the session.

    Your dogs reward could be food or verbal & handling. Don't be ashamed to say "good boy!" in public :D
     
  2. Aug 14, 2013 at 7:50 AM
    #8042
    Frogsauce

    Frogsauce Well-Known Member

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    When mine are pups, I even use the high pitched baby talk "good boy/girl" in public. Haha!

    For the family dog and parlor tricks, I give'm all the treats he can eat.

    But I never use food as a reward with my working dogs. It's faster training, but I have found it unreliable in the field. Especially if you run out of treats/food, or if whatever he is doing is more interesting than the treats.

    Once they are out of the puppy phases, I make sure they understand that a command something they have to do. It's not optional and there is no bargaining piece.

    Obviously, the family dog doesn't need this level of strictness. But for a recall command, I think it is required. I have seen too many dogs trained to come with treats as a reward. But as soon as they start running after something that is more interesting than treats, they are gone. And I hate seeing lost dog posters and dead ones in the street.
     
  3. Aug 14, 2013 at 11:50 AM
    #8043
    JoeySauce

    JoeySauce Well-Known Member

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    yea a nice trick i didn't have to teach.....I figured no one will see the scratches up there

    I don't hunt, but was thinking about starting since I have this hunting machine now. My only worry is about getting her trained to hunt and the ability to turn it off when I go out on normal hikes/camping trips. I don't want a fully charged dog when i'm not out hunting.
     
  4. Aug 14, 2013 at 12:14 PM
    #8044
    Spoonman

    Spoonman Granite Guru

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  5. Aug 14, 2013 at 12:15 PM
    #8045
    skidooman

    skidooman I'm your huckleberry

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    IMO, training her to hunt wont increase what hunting she is already doing. She will just be more controlled. With training you arent going to put any more prey drive in her than she already has. Right now she is probably going crazy, and maybe even driving you crazy because she wants to go, but has no real direction. My GSP is in hunt mode 24/7, and I love it.
     
  6. Aug 14, 2013 at 6:31 PM
    #8046
    Frogsauce

    Frogsauce Well-Known Member

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    It takes practice (the training I mean). I have been doing it for years, and I still run into different challenges with each new dog.


    The great thing about a pointer is they were breed to be on/off hunting dogs. They are extremely good with family and maintain a strict hunting drive. That's why I switched to them for general purpose hunting, deer running, and birds.


    Just make sure you train him in an on/off style also. In other words, I don't tell my dogs to find deer, or tree a squirrel, etc, while I am out walking around with the wife. I tell him "leave it". And that's the cue for "It's not hunting time". Pointers and springers are good at recognizing hunting mode and family mode.


    Where hounds might have trouble with this, if its a pure pointer, he should be able to switch between the two very easily.


    Labs also switch well, but that is because most are trained to execute actions (like retrieve). So as long as you aren't giving commands, he shouldn't be in hunting stance (which for a lab is typically sitting and waiting for feathers to fall.).
     
  7. Aug 15, 2013 at 8:18 PM
    #8047
    neonlazer

    neonlazer Mechanically Goofy

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    Our crazy hotdog Bella :) When she don't feel like being right side up..
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    She is mostly blind since last year.(not sure on cause) but she still wags her tail around the house..we made foam triangles and put them in the corners cause she comes inside looking more like a missile headed to the kitchen..only she can't see..its SOOOO funny..and have to guide her by your voice..she is one lazy, goofy, ,cute plump, hotdog..she always does this growl when I scratch her. XD
     
  8. Aug 16, 2013 at 5:18 PM
    #8048
    hellsbay

    hellsbay Well-Known Member

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  9. Aug 17, 2013 at 6:02 AM
    #8049
    David Tarantino

    David Tarantino Well-Known Member

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    ·


  10.  
  • Aug 19, 2013 at 6:27 AM
    #8050
    guitarjamman

    guitarjamman Well-Known Member

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    Alright folks, I need a little help/guidance. We brought home our new male dachshund/shepherd mix (Winston) Friday. He is 14 weeks old and a very smart boy, can figure out a lot on his own and is almost already potty trained. I need some input on how to better adopt him into our family though; we have a 5 year old yorkshire terrior (Mocha) who was accepting of him at first and she even played with him, but as the weekend progressed became a little more shy and reserved. They met on the front lawn as a neutral place for about an hour before both coming into the house. Mocha will jump up on the back of the couch and try to hang out there all day because Winston cannot get her. She turns away from him when he enters the room and all in all has no use for Winston at the moment, she almost didn't even eat her food before work this morning - which is cause for concern because she is very food oriented and always eats as if it's her last meal on Earth.

    I am planning on starting some new ground rules this week and need some feedback on my methods:
    - My wife and I need to begin reinforcing the idea that WE are the pack leaders. We did this when we first got Mocha but completely forgot that we need to show those boundaries again. Mocha has accepted where she is in line and never challenged us after she submitted as a puppy. Are there any tips on making sure we go about enforcing pack leadership correctly?

    - I think we need to show Mocha more love a respect than we did this weekend. Having a puppy makes it tough to be stern when needed because they are very cute. I am planning on making sure the puppy does not come on the couch anymore; use it as Mocha's "safespot". We are going to redirect the puppy to his new bed whenever he tries to come up on the couch to snuggle. Is it OK to let Mocha on the couch (we have done this since day-1, we can't tell her NO to this), and keep Winston from coming up?

    - We would like Mocha to be the 2nd in command as she is the oldest and is used to how it was before the new puppy. We are going to let her growl and show her teeth to set boundaries, but if she begins to lash out and attack, we will step in to correct this as we are the pack leader. Should we let her nip and bite to assert or stop this behavior?

    - In order to let Mocha be 2nd in command, we are going to let her be the first to get things. This means making sure she gets fed first, let out to pee/poop first, pet first, jump in the car first, etc. We are understanding that the canine world works a little different than the human world and want to make sure that the new puppy won't be put out too much either. The plan is to make the couch Mocha's safespot as well as our bedroom where she sleeps. When we both get home from work, I am going to take Mocha to the couch around the corner and out of sight for a little personal time then let her out to do her business. While she is out, we will play with Winston for a minute and then let him out once Mocha is finished.

    I may be overthinking/analyzing this whole process, but I have never had two dogs before and want to make sure this whole process goes as smoothly as it can. At the end of the day, they need to work it out but if I can do anything to make sure Mocha is not put out then I will. Puppy training class may be in order to make sure he is tired out and still gets some social interaction, but with money a little tight from buying our first house, classes may wait a little while. Dog leash walks every evening in the State Forest will hopefully help.
     
  • Aug 19, 2013 at 8:20 AM
    #8051
    Truck Girl

    Truck Girl Well-Known Member

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    for the pack leadership i'd look up leerburg.com great advice and articles on it. he specializes in shepherd and police working dogs but also has great advice on family pets. Although he can be extreme he gives you a great place to start :) used it with my rottie and shepherd mix and worked great! there is also info on bringing a new puppy in with an existing dog. his site is full of information and my go to when i run into problems!
     
  • Aug 19, 2013 at 9:00 AM
    #8052
    Socalduckslayer

    Socalduckslayer Pelfreybilt Off-Road

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    Odds and Ends
    My little knot-head is growing up so fast
    6 months now

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  • Aug 19, 2013 at 9:26 AM
    #8053
    1Bigbird

    1Bigbird Yo! Wat up peeps?

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  • Aug 19, 2013 at 2:53 PM
    #8054
    Frogsauce

    Frogsauce Well-Known Member

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    Dogs will always try to advance in the pack. That's part of their way of life. If one gets injured, another steps up and takes his place. As long as you consistently assert your dominance with them, you will always be the leader.


    My dogs have sometimes checked the boundary, but I come down fast and hard, so they do it less often (typically more between 1-3 years old and a lot less later in their lives). Consistency is the key here. Don't make exceptions for behavior you don't want. Everyone must follow all the rules, all the time. I have had to learn this the hard way.



    Yes. But it is difficult. When I have multiples, each one has a bed of their own (Their safe spot) and are not allowed to occupy any other ones. It takes a long time to get that to stick though.


    I have found that it is difficult to set a pack order yourself. Just let the dogs figure it out on their own. Once they realize they are all part of one pack, they will sort themselves out to follow your rules. Just make sure your rules include not fighting or bickering with each other.


    Sometimes two dogs just won't get along. There is nothing wrong with it unless there is fighting involved. I have had dogs that want nothing to do with each other, but hunt and work together as a pack. But I have also had to give dogs away that just will not get along with the others. It sucks when that happens, but it's better for the dog to live somewhere else than in a stressful environment. Stressed out dogs don't make good working dogs anyway.


    And the usual disclaimer is: all dogs and people are different in their own way. I just know what works for my hunting dogs past and present. I hope some of my experience can help you.
     
  • Aug 19, 2013 at 4:09 PM
    #8055
    ImpulseRed008

    ImpulseRed008 Gone But Not Forgotten

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    My dogs don't have a safe spot - they just have their own bed and kennel. They pretty much just stay to their own.
     
  • Aug 19, 2013 at 6:22 PM
    #8056
    Polymerhead

    Polymerhead Well-Known Member

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    One thing we did to assert our dominance when the dogs were young was to let the dogs start eating (after the OK command of course) and then after a minute pick up the bowl and stir the kibble like we were eating it. It reinforces they only eat because you let them, and also reinforces the fact that people are not to be challenged for food.

    I wouldn't recommend "breaking" an adult adoptee that way, but it works great for pups.
     
  • Aug 19, 2013 at 6:36 PM
    #8057
    aw10tacoma

    aw10tacoma backyard mechanic

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    My great dane and my psychopath Jack Russell's and myself

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  • Aug 19, 2013 at 6:41 PM
    #8058
    sfcadams

    sfcadams Retired Senior NCO

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    My new guard dog, WillowBeast.....

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  • Aug 20, 2013 at 8:05 PM
    #8059
    baloo65

    baloo65 Member

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    Here are my dogs...the pit is 4 and his name is baloo and my english bulldog is king louie and he is 10months
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  • Aug 20, 2013 at 8:08 PM
    #8060
    baloo65

    baloo65 Member

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