Florida B.S. Thread

sand! i tried just priming and painting without, and that chrome is slick. paint just flakes right off of it as it dries. sanded them after i shook the paint off (that's litterally all it took to remove the paint), and the paint stuck great after that.

 

Will do, I was planning on it, but now I definitely will. Thanks.

What grit would you recommend?

 

honestly can't remember what i used, but somewhere in the 120g or finer should be fine. i probably just used whatever i had laying around. obviously just don't apply huge ammounts of pressure with therougher grits. you don't need to remove the chrome, just remove the mirror finish it has.

 

I used the Krylon fusion on mine with no sanding. Holding up at the 2 month mark.

 

aparantly i used the wrong stuff :/

 

If yall were putting gauges in your truck, what would you monitor (asside from AFR and voltage). I'm looking for a 3rd gauge to fill a pod opening, but i'd like to monitor so many things lol. Chris, boost gauge is not a valid answer in this scenario

 

Awe, you beat me to my answer for that.

Tranny temp? Not sure if there's an easy way for us to tap into that info.

 

Any leads on getting replacement clear lenses for these headlights? I know they exist, just cant seem to find them. Maverick had some a while back, but I never got my hands on them.

 

that's an option. easiest way would be to splice into the hot line going into the factory transmission cooler. i think that and oil pressure are my top two options unless someone has reasoning for something else.

 

I might just end up tinting them like Viet did in his how to thread. The lenses on these are both burnt, but I think if I tint them they should still look good.

 

Never mind, I think I am just going to keep the turn lens out and paint that bowl black. But of course leaving the headlight bowl chrome. and also I will leave the orange reflector normal as well.

 

Those should look nice!

 

My a/c fan switch is acting up, on the third setting, (1 down from max fan) I get only bare minimum air movement, but full blast setting still works fine.

Any ideas?

 

You need a new blower resistor and pigtail. Sadly very common on our trucks. We usually have them in stock and I could do it in about 20 minutes for you when I see you on Saturday if you are still stopping by.

 

I find it difficult to park at the bank my wife works at with all these mirrored doors and windows.

 

you need to jack that white Disco I and build yourself a crawler

 

I used krylon fusion like ckeene9 with no sanding or primer.
It's been a little over a year & their holding up great. Just be careful when putting them back together, you can chip the bezel with the lens like I did but its really small & you can hardly notice it.

 

I had a quick question, being relatively new to working on vehicles, after I put my lift on my truck its been making this metal clunking noise (not too sure how to describe it) whenever I hit bumps, it didnt make that noise before the lift only after. The mechanic that was helping me out said that I was going to have to replace my bushing I believe, so Im not really too sure what exactly is making that noise, any ideas?

 

That's great! Yes, I still plan on swinging by on the 31st

 

what lift?

most likely it's because your shock is almost fully extended with the lift, which means you have very little drop, and/or a lot of spring preload. after you hit a bump, the shock extends to kepe the tire on the ground, but since it's so close to fully extended already, it easily tops out. if this is the case, the sound you're hearing is the shock reaching full extension. only when you get to a performance coilover, will you find internal dampeners on top and bottom of the shock piston the lessen this noise and impact.