Boost Gauge!

Very nice guage, subbed for future reference! I'd have vacuum as well, but to each their own. I have been tempted to get the new AEM failsafe that is two gauges in one, and can show boost and air fuel at the same time.

x2, be warry of the pumps out there. Personally I run DW- they are quiet and even though other companies sell pumps made from the same source, DW bothered with doing longevity testing.

That said, a DW200 was far more than I needed for the 01, so a Wally 190 suffices. For 2nd gens, they need more fuel, and IMO I'd go with a DW200 (same flow as Wally 255, but E85 rated, stress tested and even bettery- whisper quiet).

 

Well said sir.

To complement what you said.

http://www.dezod.com/cat_fuel.cfm

http://urdusa.com/Fuel-Upgrades-Fue...-Tank-Pump-(E85-Compatible)/product_info.html

 

Or here

Fuel pumps, 5vzfe drop-in PNP injectors etc

 

Well after running consistent 10.4 wot on the 2.85 pulley I decided not to install DW fuel pump/filter upgrade. I'll just keep monitoring wideband.

 

Well if it ever does come up that you want to do an install, just PM me, and I can help you do it.

 

Thanks torspd, what you doing tomorrow? You ought to come out with me to the ford raptor run. There be about 50 of my raptor buddies, and I was going to put the baja taco to the test at the Texas off road ranch. I'll pm you my number..

 

UGGGGGGGHHHHH!!!!! I just bought a boat.....now I will have to slow down my Tacoma fund. Or spend it now while I still have it! I know this had been beaten like a dead horse, but I have read many of your guys posts and you know your shit so I will take your advise. TRD or URD exhaust...its that simple. I can never find any in cabin sound clips of just one or the other with out a bunch of other mods. ORRRRRRR would you do the Y pipe with wide band first?

On another note anyone else bought one of these gauges yet? I know of a couple people that already have. Glad I could help!

 

I did finally get my gauges installed. I ordered one of the Speedhut gauges simiar to OP. Different color/light combo and also installed an Aeroforce Interceptor gauge.



I used a Lotek A-Pillar mount. I am not too sure I like this mounting option for myself. It's OK but fit and finish is not as nice as the factory pillar. I will likely install the steering column mount at some point.

While I was at it I also did the DRL disable. It was simply unplugging the current DRL relay from the back of the fuse block and installing a non-DRL flasher relay and junction block. I left the DRL relay connections on the fuse block should I ever feel like hooking it back up.

I had ordered and installed the 2013 Steering Column dimmer/headlight switch that offers DRL Off, but this did not function. So I just turned the DRL off full time until I can try a few more options. It may be that the DRL on 2013 is controlled by the ECU and if that is the case, and not controlled by the relay, then I will reinstall my 2012 dimmer stalk and keep the other part around for sometime in the future when it's worked out.

I really like the look of the speedhut gauge, mine has white face, trd logo, and it lit red when the lights are on; but I am not too keen on the Aeroforce Interceptor gauge because it's difficult to read with polarized sunglasses on. My only issues with the speedhut so far is that being electronic, or maybe that doesn't have anything to do with it, but the gauge doesn't seem to start reading boost for me until it reaches about 3-4 pounds. It just jumps to 3-4 pounds and doesn't come on smooth with its' reading even though I can hear the S/C'r around 2K rpm. Not too big a deal right now, but I am a stickler for details. I peak boost a little over 7lbs with the 2.85 pulley.

:: Regarding hookup of the gauges. On my Aeroforce, I simply have it running to the ODBII port as the only connection for now. That port also powers that gauge. I did prewire for an Add-a-fuse for switched ignition power but I messed up my 2nd one before install. I used an Add a fuse for the Speedhut in the 10A ignition 2 slot. I ran vacuum line through the firewall using the area/grommet that the hood latch cable uses. I installed the little inverter box that comes with the gauge under the dash near the fog light switch, and used the 12v power (t-taps) off one of the green power wires from the fog light switch to power the lights for the gauge. This is switched 12v so only when I turn on my lights will the gauge light. I grounded on some bolt that a bracket the fuse block uses to mount to the truck.

 

Where is the boost source of yours? At the nipple on the intercooler cover?

 

Yes, the inter-cooler cover on the S/C near the firewall. On the speedhut, this vacumm/boost line then connects to an electronic pressure transducer that the gauge uses to measure boost. The vacuum line doesn't directly connect to the gauge. Originally what came in the package was a short vacuum line that would not reach to the firewall grommet. I wanted to run the vacuum/boost line through the firewall into the truck cab as I could not see anyway for me to get the transducer through the firewall without drilling a new hole, and did not know if that electronic part would be reliable under the hood.

 

Hmm. Sounds like there might be something wrong with the gauge or the sensor. I'll bet on the sensor. You should give them a call.

 

Thanks - yeah I plan on asking them. Wanted to get OP's response of how his gauge functions too.

I don't feel like tearing it all a part for a bit again until I get the steering column mount and decide what I want to do with the interceptor gauge. It's a pain to route all of the wires and keep it semi organized and pro install looking. I've got bloody knuckles today at the office.

 

I have the gauge figured out now. Being electronic there is a small setup step to set the min and high warning lights. There is also a recall function and light functions.

The gauge functions fine as well. I have seen it reading smooth as low as .5 lbs when going up a hill. I suppose the erratic readings I was seeing was due to the bypass on the S/C cutting in when not under load and such. When giving gas and passing 2.5K rpm it does almost instantly read 3-4 lbs and gradually rises.

I like it. Haven't really had/taken the chance to see it in action at night yet.

http://youtu.be/66FclLTElZU

 

Sunday, i've installed my innovate MTX-D (dual fonction) gauge using only the vacuum/boost (not using the shift light fonction). It's using a MAP sensor in the engine bay. It's working pretty well and is very sensitive. I'm reading from -20 in vacuum to 7.5 psi in boost (SC + URD Stealth 2.85 pulley). It can be programmed and be connected to other devices like the AFR gauge and OT-1 module to create a MTS chain data logging.

After the SC the truck was running rich at WOT and it was the same after the 2.85 pulley installation and OEM FPR mode. So no problems with the pump but i have one just in case. So the truck was running in the low 10 maybe under. I'm using the URD MAF controller to correct it and now running average 11.0-11.2 AFR. I still have to fine tune the transition between 2500 to 3500 rpm and check if i will try to reach an AFR between 11.5-11.8 and see if there is some hidden HP in this area. Last dyno run was 298.2 RWHP at 5500 rpm and 328.6 lbs-ft at 3700 rpm.

 

I see you want with the original color scheme of the gauge TRD used to offer. I just ordered a matching AFR gauge to my boost gauge and will have pitures of that up as soon as I get it installed. Question about your trcuk. You have a smaller pulley on the charger, are there any concerns about the warranty?

 

Nah - No real concerns about the warranty. I would just put the original parts back on or fix it myself.

 

Hey sorry for droping the ball on this by the way. Gauge acts similarly which is as I had expected. It will read anywhere from .5-2 when going up a hill and not down shifting. Any time it down shifts and im on the throttle a little I get between 3-4psi, it jumps there quickly, and at full throttle it goes up between 5-6. I can get it to read the whole swing of numbers with application to the throttle, its just really sensitive once in boost. It seems to my like yours was operating fine.

 

Hey fixing to install the wideband this weekend or next, looking for opinions on where to weld the O2 bung for the sensor?

 

If 1 sensor @ the back of y pipe where left and right come together, if 2 sensors further forward each

 

Best and accurate readings remove flap on lift and weld 3 o'clock 3 inches infront of first o2. Its a straight shot for muffler shop to weld, 10 min. Passenger side. Cost me 30 bucks.