Finished my install, JL Stealthbox + AppRadio in 2013 Taco

I just wanted to post up and say I finished my install the other day and am very happy with the results.

The headunit install was a piece of cake. I did spend about 8 hours on the steering wheel control adapter (ASWC-1) and it turned out it was defective so all my troubleshooting was just wasted time. Otherwise, the thing installed perfectly. I soldered everything, no crimping. I installed the "MicroBypass" and it works great.

Pioneer AppRadio 3 SPH-DA110
Metra harness + Metra antenna adapter + Metra

$68 Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface

Axxess ASWC-1 + Metra mounting kit.
JL Audio Stealthbox for 2012+ Tacoma
JL XD700/5 Amplifier
JL C5-650x component separates w/ crossover (front)
JL C2-650 2-way (rear)
JL remote control knob for amp
Kicker RCA interconnects
Stinger speaker wire and fuse.
Home made brackets for the doors Yes, those are walmart cutting boards. CHEAP! Worked great.

I think the install took me about 25 hours total. Yeah that sounds like a ton, but I had some set backs and I enjoyed the work. I did bits and pieces as I went last week. The brackets I got online said 6.5" and they didnt work. JL stuff is 6.52". I tried sanding, heating, etc. wasted a ton of time on that. Then twice I didn't have enough speaker wire and had to go get more. Then I installed the crossovers in the door, then changed my mind and put them in the kick panel later, so re-working that wiring.

I am very happy with the AppRadio3 and my iPhone 5. Sure there are issues, but overall its slick. I love the waze integration. Pandora works great and so does a2dp bluetooth.

The JL stuff is nuts. I tuned it per the manual and so my max volume is 40, had it at 30 and got the proper voltage. They say based on this if you go to 40 (MAX) you may get clipping occasionally. Listening to it at 15 its loud as F*CK already The stealthbox hits hard. Too hard. I dont like it at max, its just a huge bass slamming system. I am not in to that. I love the knob to be able to control when I want more or less, and i never give it 100%, its just obnoxious.

I ran the RCA's, the remote wire, and the HDMI+Pioneer proprietary iPhone5 cables down the center console. Power went down the left (driver) side, back behind the seat and over. Ground is to the huge bolt that secures the middle seat belt in the rear seat (was tough finding a ring terminal big enough but i did). speaker wire up left/right sides. Crossovers in the front are in each of the kick panels on the sides with 2 sets of speaker wire going through the door (fun fishing that, sheesh!)

The Pioneer AppRadio only has *2* sets of RCA preouts. I set one to Front L/R and the other to sub. The set of RCA's for Front L/R splits at the amp to Front L becoming Front+Rear L, and Front R becoming Front+Rear R. I have no fader control on the headunit, so I must use sensitivity on the amp. Honestly, I tuned it and I dont see myself touching it again. I wanted the sub to be separate RCA's.

I think I was a but OCD on my connections. Even the spade connectors for the speaker wire, I crimped using a crimper, then solder wicked in to the connector for a sure absolute solid connection. Overkill.
I posted up a quick video about 2 weeks ago when I installed the headunit (did the headunit and later did the speakers like a week later). Showing the AppRadio and how it works with Waze, Pandora, etc. Basic... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lECmOeCc6I

Anyhow, heres some pics

 

Nice looking setup! I wish JL made the single and amp setup for the 08's. I haven't figured out what i'm going to do for subs yet in mine, but I'll be installing a Pioneer AVIC-x850bt this week. How's the App Radio so far? I was looking hard at those, but couldn't find too many positive reviews on them.

 

I had the Pioneer AVIC-Z1 that I upgraded to Z2 and Z3 (same thing), then I replaced it with the AVIC-Z140BH. I sold that car with it. I had real gripes about the Z140..

There are bugs with AR3, but it is solid enough for me. Waze works great. The capacitive touch screen is very nice. pandora works well as well as bluetooth. Sound is good enough for me. I have no real gripes. I just want to jailbreak my phone so I can mirror it completely. Soon I hope.

 

what was the cost on this setup? i was just looking at the stealthbox

 

$1350 for the stealthbox, xd700/5 amp, c5's and c2's shipped to my door. another $600 or so for the headunit with all the adapters and all that crap. Then I think I dropped another $120 on wiring. I'd guess about $2100 with supplies.

 

I wouldn't mind messing around with your appradio3. I had the AR2 and it was driving me bat shit crazy so I took it out. It had some issues connecting with my phone. I hope this works for you and you don't have to go through all the silly rituals that I had to just to get it to work when it decided to.

 

never have had a problem with my Ar2

 

I had problems almost from day one. I love the concept but with complete lack of support for it, it almost isn't worth it to me to try it again.

 

just curious what kind of problems? I have only had mine for a month or so. The booting time does sometimes get old though

 

What did you use to cut the board? Good idea.

 

I am very interested in this headunit. I just installed XD 500/3 amp with c3-650's and a 10w3v3-2 in my access cab. I couldn't be happier with the setup. I'm looking into a replacement head unit and so far I'm contemplating this unit and the Parrot Asteroid Smart. I assume based off your video how you have your phone wired up the USB port, and Aux port are not connected to anything. I'm contemplating running the USB cable to the center console like you have and then just wiring the original USB port up to power so I can still charge USB devices from there. Also have you looked into using something such as this http://www.nextwarehouse.com/item/?1134866_g10e to make your Aux port work? In theory you should be able to get RCA to 3.5mm and connect that to the Aux port in the dash and then if you want to connect a device with Aux just tune to what ever FM channel the modulator is set to. I guess you and I think alike because I solder wicked all of my crimps as well. Just curious what you did with the 12 volt power cables going into the amp? Currently I just wicked the end of the wire and tightened the set screw onto it that way. I've heard of people crimping large spade connectors onto the power lines and tightening the set screw in the amp down onto that. Basically the 4 guage wires are so thick that over time they compress further and the connection starts to loosen up. There's got to be a better way of doing this! Thanks

 

I was having a lot of connectivity issues. I would have about 3 different connection issues. One of which seemed to be the only fix, and it never always worked, was to turn my truck off, turn BT off on my phone, unplug it, turn my truck back on, turn BT back on, then once it said it was connected to the phone plug it in again and open Pandora. That was the main one. Another one it would be playing then all the information would go away and say it was disconnected and you needed to reconnect the phone but it continued to play with no control of the music unless you disconnected and reconnected, then you ran the risk of the previous issue happening again.

I forgot about Parrot, They had a 1.5 DIN a while back that showed some good promise. The Asteroid Smart looks like a pretty good contender now with the android OS and all. I have also seen this one that I have been toying with the idea of trying it out:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...gation-android-radio-05-11-toyota-tacoma.html

 

maybe just an android issue I use 4s

 

Yeah I really like the Parrot but their steering wheel adapter isn't compatible with tacomas and its not worth losing those in my opinion. Which is why I have been looking at this unit. I have an iPhone 5 and everyone I've seen who reviews the app radio 3 with iPhone says it works very well. I will take a look at the one you posted.

 

of all the stock functions, which did you lose? (usb/aux port, bluetooth for phone, volume/mode/track change wheel buttons)

 

A simple Craftsman saber saw. It cut through them like butter, no issues at all. It isnt a precision task either (even though I think my lines were good). What matters most is your hole in the center and all the speakers come with the paper templates to trace. It seriously couldn't have been easier.

 

USB/Aux port is not used. It really serves no solid purpose for me with the AppRadio3. You must use their proprietary port and cable for iPhone 5 plus an HDMI cable. Both of those go in to the apple HDMI AV adapter, which has a lightning cable output. So while it sounds nice to be able to use the USB port, it just won't work. Same for Android, you still must use an MHL adapter to HDMI to get the video to the screen.

Bluetooth for phone works great with this headunit. You don't use the stock microphone, but their mic is good and I mounted it above the rearview mirror. Works great. One change in the way the headunit deals with the steering wheel control is that if I hit the CALL button on the headunit, it doesn't do anything directly. The OEM headunit would pull up a list and u can click a person. To get that list I hit the button on the headunit. If someone is calling the CALL button works to pick up the call fine. You see the callers name on the screen (or #). The HANGUP button works fine too on the steering wheel

All these work exactly the same as before: Vol Up/Down Track/Seek Up/Down

So no issues with steering wheel controls for me. I dont think i really lost any functionality. I think I definitely gained a lot.

 

I have no desire to attempt implementing that Metra tool you posted. I am more than happy using either A2DP for bluetooth music OR using my iPhone hard wired to the cable. I can easily switch to Android if I want since the USB male/female cable I used is there in the center console.

Yes, you could easily rig up the USB/AUX port so that the USB port offers charging. There is a harness adapter on Crutchfield to adapt this port (toyota OEM) to a more universal model. Simply attach power to it and you're good to go. No AUX though.
I did something like this for my passengers in the rear. I bought a 2 port USB dongle thing that screws in and simply wired it 12V to constant power, so that you could charge even when the car is off. It's right behind the cup holder down about 3" on that back panel.

I followed JL recommendations and just screwed the wires in. The JL amp is a bit different, it doesnt look like it just screws a screw on to the wire, it actually lowers a flat plate on to the wire so the pressure is distributed well and the set screw doesnt chop up the wire. I dont know if in time it will get loose, but It seems strong now. I didn't want to solder wick those, I just wasnt sure in that situation, so I left it as the manual states and it works well.

 

Im looking at the stealth box for my 2013, other then drilling holes for the bracket what else is involved in the installation. My main concern is that small storage tray that doesn't seem to be removable.

 

The holes IMHO don't need to be put in and you don't have to bolt it in. The thing is heavy and snug. Still they say 1. It can produce not ideal acoustics (uh huh) and 2. It can come loose fly around the cabin and kill people . So I see from a legal aspect why they had to secure it. I did just cuz I had the time and why not.

Otherwise the entire back 2/3 area is 100 stock. Don't remove anything and u install it. You actually retain a little cubby under where the amp is (notice in the pic).