DTLT's for 2013 4.0

I am pretty new to this, as I have mentioned in another post. But after doing a little searching, I cannot seem to find any DTLT's for my 2013. Are they not available yet? I only ask because the general consensus is that the LT's are a decent addition. If and when I can install them, how does it work outwith the existing cats? On earlier model Tacomas is there a y or x pipe type setup that bolts on without putting a torch to it? Should it be any different with a 2013? I am looking to, if possible, doing DTLT's (if available), reducing to 2 cats, and a TRD or Borla Cat-Back. Any thoughts or ideas whether this is even possible?

 

They are definitely available.

The 2012-2013 Tacomas have the same part # for DTLT'S being that Toyota has added emissions air pump rails on the headers starting with the 2012's.

You can buy them here: http://urdusa.com/Exhaust-&-Headers...Header,-2012-Tacoma-V6-ONLY/product_info.html

Use promo code "forummember" to knock off a couple bucks as well.

They work fine with existing cats in the factory y-pipe, but you will need o2 simulators for the rear 2 sensors(on the y-pipe) so you don't throw a cat inefficiency code check engine light. Don't worry, URD actually sells these as a plug & play unit at a discount when you buy them with the DTLT's.

In my opinion, if you're willing to get rid of the front 2 cats, you might as well clear the bottle neck in the rear 2 cats and get the URD y-pipe also. Since the rear 2 cats are located after the rear o2 sensors(the ones that actually monitor what comes out of the 1st 2 cats on the headers), they can be removed & replaced by an aftermarket y-pipe(highly recommend URD) without worrying about o2 simulators.

To answer your question, replacing the y-pipe is 100% bolt on---no torch needed. The "cross over" happens below the transmission on the 2nd Gen Tacomas as opposed to that RETARDED over transmission/next to firewall cross over design on the 3.4 v6 1st gens. After that, any catback of your choice will bolt on just fine.

Just as a heads up, Doug Thorley seems to be shorting people on PROPER hardware for the 2012-2013 long & short tube headers---mainly neglecting to include either shorter studs -OR- replacement bolts & washers for the upper 3 holes on the header flanges for each side. There is not enough clearance for the stock upper studs to be fastened with the new air pump rails on the DTLT's. Don't let this discourage you, there are EASY solutions for this as I mentioned earlier: use shorter studs(found at auto parts stores) or replace the factory studs with high grade bolts & lock washers from any hardware store.

Here are a couple of threads with good info on the installation of the 2012-2013 DTLT's:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279203

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=227083

I personally have the DTLT's on my own '13 Tacoma as well. Feel free to click on the link to the build thread for it on my sig.

There's a good bit of power to be gained with long tube headers especially when combined with the URD y-pipe.

 

There's plenty of info on the post above there OP ^^^

 

Thanks for all the tips. I am a little worried about the level of noise the straight y-pipe will make. I see from a few of the threads the combination of the headers, O2 sensor and y-pipe. On the URD page, how much will the "pipe bombs" dampen the noise when compared to the straight y-pipe? I like to hear the engine, but I don't want to be "that guy" in my neighborhood...not so much for my sake, but for my wife's! I am also working on a ship and unable to get streaming video...so I cannot see or hear the videos that people have on their threads of what their trucks sound like. So, given this...this is where I want to go with it: DTLT's, URD "pipe bombs", URD O2 sensor, and either TRD or Borla cat-backs. The option is still in the air whether it is worth swapping out the stock CAI with one of the aftermarket ones (ones that seem good are AFE, Airaid, Volant...I am not so much interested in gettign the forward-of-the-radiator URD one). What are your thoughts on this set-up? Then, further down the line, I will be ready for the S/C and a lift! Thanks for the help. I know there are numerous thread on here, but being new to the Tacoma nation, I am not quite sure what to look for yet, so the thread links have been a good help.

Bill

 

To be honest, you will probably hate having long tube headers if you're not ready for a good bit of noise increase----and the noise being RASP.

When you say "URD Pipe bombs" I assume you mean these?-->

http://urdusa.com/Exhaust-&-Headers..."Pipe-Bomb"-Y-Pipe-2005+-V6/product_info.html

If that's the case, stay far far away from that pipe. From what I've seen on TWO of my friends Tacomas, the fit is hit or miss and it's more miss than it is hits....and they don't flow nearly as well as the URD Y-pipe even if they were straight pipes. IMO, the SLIGHT decrease in volume(from the URD y pipe) and isn't worth spending $300 on a part that may or may not fit right. I'd rather run a stock y-pipe at that point.

If you want decent gains, but minimal rasp you will have better luck going with just a y-pipe(URD) & a catback and call it good. Leave the headers stock. That way, everything is 100% EASY bolt on and you still get to delete 2 restrictive cats from your system without having to worry about o2 simulators and removing & replacing exhaust manifolds.

Think of it this way: when you put long tube headers on, you're increasing the flow of SIX holes as opposed to just TWO holes(y pipe)----the affect on sound volume is much more with headers than it is a y-pipe.

I would highly recommend getting a resonator welded in right after the y-pipe if you're dead set on getting DTLT's. I myself have had great results with this: http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1022_1033_1055

That resonator has tamed a lot of the rasp/rifling sound in my full 3" exhaust system(DTLT + URD y pipe + URD 3" catback pipe w/custom 3" Magnaflow turndown muffler), but the volume increase is definitely there. So basically it's still LOUD, it's just not as raspy.

There are tons of guys with firsthand experience running DTLT's, and I know all of them will agree once you have a set put on your truck, the increase in rasp is undeniable....and if you value minimizing the increase in sound volume over power gains, maybe long tubes might not be what you want.

As for intakes, you can't go wrong with AFE or Volant. I prefer AFE, but that's just me.

 

My 13' has DTRL.

 

Thanks for the advice. Forgive my ignorance, but in laymens terms...the eshaust flows out each side of the engine, into a 2 down to 1 pipe (that being the y-pipe) and then to the exhaust. I am not at home and cannot look, but where exactly are the cats...in teh current stock y-pipe? You mentioned if I do a cat-back and a URD y-pipe I will eliminate 2 of the cats. Are there 2 of the stock 4 located between the headers and y-pipe? Is that why you keep two with the stock headers, but eliminate 2 with the y-pipe? So, if I reduce my wish list to a CAI, y-pipe and cat-back, your guess is that it will sound and run better but will nto get too raspy...and if I so feel inclined to get the headers then you suggest adding a resonator to the system? Does that fit somewhere between the y-pipe and the cat back system? Is it something where you would have to cut a section of teh cat-back system out and add in this resonator? I am guessing it acts as a bit of a silencer of sorts?? Again...I am new to this and trying to figure out where all the pieces fit...but am learning a lot pretty quickly, so I apreciate your time.

 

Are you running them with the stock cats and exhaust? Or, do you have other things in the sytem. Do you notice the raspiness everyone has mentioned? I dont have access to any videos so, I am not sure what exactly raspiness sounds like.

 

All stock.