The *Official Photography Thread*

Like with the exposure make up? So I could have upped that and then kept the shutter at 320-400 but my aperture won't stay open..or should I have to to full manual?

 

Ahhhh gotcha!

 

A few pics of the longest urban whitewater in the world.

 

WOW

please tell me how you were able to do that in low light?

 

Full manual, wide open at 2.8 or lower depending on your lens, set your Shutter speed to around 100 or so, then meter to find the lowest ISO you can use for the least amount of noise

If you want you can go higher shutter speed, but you will have to use a higher ISO, and then you can edit the picture for less noise in post. Also you could always underexpose the image and bring it back up in post.

And if you are using a high ISO, over expose and then bring the image back down in post and that reduces noise.

 

By wide open do you mean exposure compensation all the way up??

 

No, I am talking about your lens aperture, or f/ number. Wide open is the same meaning as using the biggest/largest/widest aperture of your lens.

 

fuji x100
f2.0
1/15s
iso 3200

plus a bump in exposure in lr4

 

The highest number?? doesn't that let in less light?..

tripod then? looks awesome. Idk how you don't have much noise..all mine do.

 

low light or horrible lighting? two different things.

for low light shots without a flash, it is imperative to shoot at high ISOs, and use fast glass. newer camera bodies will have better ISO control(less noise at higher levels, and also higher than normal levels), and fast glass will allow you to bring your ISO levels lower, of course, after reaching a reasonable shutter speed. always use a minimum shutter speed to not induce camera blur for moving subjects.

horrible lighting(different temperature light sources) will affect your white balance. you can set your WB manually, so your shots are somewhat consistent in color, otherwise your WB sensor in the camera will (over)compensate and your series of shots could differ in color.

what are you shooting with?

 

higher numerical value in f stop means smaller circle to let light in. "wide open" means you have your lens set at the largest(smallest numerical value on your lens)aperture your lens supports.

no tripod on that shot. just a decent low light performing camera

 

I see were i may have confused you, my bad

You are correct, the higher the aperture f/ lets in less light. So aperture f/22 will be a smaller hole, letting in less light, than f/2.8.

When talking about the biggest/widest aperture you are talking about the lower number.

So if I say use the biggest aperture, i mean use the lowest number your lens can go to.

What camera and lens combo are you using?

 

I have a Canon 60D with the kit 18-135mm lens. f3.5-5.6.

It was horrible lighting. Had a garage door open on one end flooding it with sun light but the lighting in the gym isn't great anyways.

My colors aren't super off. I mean if i was facing any way towards the door, the lighting on that side was just huge and everything else was dark.

I have quiet a bit of noise though even when facing away from the door as i was at 4000iso and 1/200th but i should have been at like 1/400th or faster for some of the action.

I don't have a meter though so i had no idea what iso i should have been at.

 

you DO have a meter, though. I am sure your 60d has some functions that you are unaware of. exposure compensation is one, and the other is auto iso. I suggest you do some reading on both functions, play around with your camera's menu and find these. your camera is more modern(smarter) than you think it is.

 

I shot a football game friday night and was using iso 25600 to increase my shutter speed. I'll get a pic off the camera and upload it for you to see. I used a kit lens at f/5.6 at 300mm.

 

I know it has Exposure compensation. I have used it. And auto iso..But each time i tried them..made it look worse. Turning up the compensation made thing white out too much. Iso always just jumped up to 4-6000

 

So the biggest aperture your lens has is f/3.5 at 18mm, and f/5.6 at 135mm.

Your camera has a built in meter. If you look in your viewfinder you will see a number line. That is your meter. If you put your camera into any manual mode and mover the center AF point to different places, you will see the arrow move along the line. You want it to be in the middle for a properly exposed image, or a negative number for underexposed, an positive number for an over exposed image. While shooting in auto, it will almost always be in the middle of the line.

On most camera's, with exceptions of course, the highest you want to go, with no post processing, and a clean image, is about ISO 800-1250. Anything else will not be a clean image. With post processing, im not sure what the limit is cause im not very good at editing out noise

I would have probably set the white balance to the shade setting, and then played with it in Adobe camera RAW to get the colors i wanted. With setting it to a kelvin number, as long as the lighting isnt extremely different, colors will look pretty much the same, in my experiences.

Which also brings me to add that you should shoot RAW. Especially in bad light situations, because editing with RAW is much easier, and you can do a lot more to the image than with JPEGS.

 

You can always bring down whites in post processing.

I wouldnt use auto ISO. I prefer to set my ISO at something, and then play with shutter speed and aperture before ill mess with ISO in low light situations. But thats just me and i can be pretty :weird:

 

Okay i see the meter moving now in manual mode. thats handy.

so really..better lens would have helped a tad i guess. I have been playing with reducing the nosie in LR5. But sometimes it makes everything look..cartoony..