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Rear diff Regear

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Ghost848, Nov 17, 2012.

  1. May 10, 2013 at 10:32 AM
    #81
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    Alright. Thank u sir ;)
     
  2. May 10, 2013 at 11:19 AM
    #82
    Seer

    Seer Well-Known Member

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    Comin' in here from the Jeep world, sorry if that offends. Nitro doesn't have a very good rep over there. I'm not clear on this, does everyone know you need to regear both front and back? Again, don''t want to offend, just want to make sure everyone's driving happy.
     
  3. May 10, 2013 at 11:21 AM
    #83
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    That's rich coming from a group sporting dana 35 and 44s.

    As you might guess, knowledge level varies by member.
     
  4. May 10, 2013 at 6:17 PM
    #84
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    -snap-
     
  5. May 10, 2013 at 7:25 PM
    #85
    Seer

    Seer Well-Known Member

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    I don't know what that means. Did I just get burned?



    Damn!
     
  6. May 10, 2013 at 7:55 PM
    #86
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Not you per se, but your guys who aren't fans of Nitro Gear. It's about the best aftermarket stuff you can get since Richmond isn't making gears for 2gens.

    Dana 30s and 35s are garbage. Dana 44s are respectable stock (still not a Yota axle) and quite capable when rebuilt with the good innards.
     
  7. May 10, 2013 at 8:19 PM
    #87
    Spoonman

    Spoonman Granite Guru

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    I'm gonna sas my truck with a Dana 35 bro
     
  8. May 10, 2013 at 8:30 PM
    #88
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Do it. Then run 4Ds.
     
  9. May 11, 2013 at 9:16 AM
    #89
    Seer

    Seer Well-Known Member

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    Shit man, even Jeepers laugh at 30's and 35's. The rich dudes (the rest of us just want to) get rid of the D44's and go with D60's. I've been good with the Yukon stuff. Just learning about Yotas now and looking forward to it. Going to have to sell the Jeep to afford the advanced classes though.
     
  10. May 11, 2013 at 9:59 AM
    #90
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Yukon is fine, although I'd much prefer Nitro.

    Zuk prefers Nitro, and as far as I'm concerned, his word is gospel:
    http://www.gearinstalls.com/

    The go-to Yota axle is a fabricated housing machined to accept the 9.5" landcruiser third. Every bit as tough as a D60, and often less expensive to fully build.

    That said, even stock Yota axles like the 8in rear are solid for anything up to 35s as long as you're not leadfooting it.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2013
  11. May 11, 2013 at 11:11 AM
    #91
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    I want to go with a steering 14. CAUSE YOLO
     
  12. May 11, 2013 at 12:04 PM
    #92
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    14b are cheap as shit. Probably the best value of all the big axles.
     
  13. May 11, 2013 at 12:55 PM
    #93
    Spoonman

    Spoonman Granite Guru

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    Lets have a sas party
     
  14. May 11, 2013 at 10:45 PM
    #94
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    14 bolt front steer makes me hard but too much work and a chevy 60 will work just fine :)p) with some yukon shafts and joints. 14 in the rear though for sure.

    Land Cruiser of course not the Taco
     
  15. May 17, 2013 at 6:21 AM
    #95
    Ghost848

    Ghost848 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok so im gonna be fixing this rear diff (finally) but im building up a parts pile... Is there anything else i should be doing while swapping my damn near grenaded diff. I got a new rear u joint already other than that a shit tonn of brake cleaner lol ... I woildnt mind a few other ideas for repair/preventative maitnents
     
  16. May 17, 2013 at 10:55 AM
    #96
    Spoonman

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    Rear axle seals
     
  17. Sep 3, 2013 at 5:31 PM
    #97
    Ghost848

    Ghost848 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well revive, got new 4.56 regear third from Ecgs and installed 2 months later I have to do it again.... Contacted chase at Ecgs talk to him for a while and he is going to replace it under warrenty! Sweet but booo. I followed there break in procedure that they have posted what would cause it to go this fast. When I took of drive shaft I grabbed pinion flange and it goes up and down and in and out not much but more than it should. My guess screwed bearing. Specs of the build 4.56 gears solid spacers, new seals, new bearings... Ideas?
     
  18. Sep 3, 2013 at 5:59 PM
    #98
    pa blaster

    pa blaster Well-Known Member

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    damn that sucks :(
     
  19. Sep 3, 2013 at 8:22 PM
    #99
    Spoonman

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    You have a solid spacer now? Hmm. With the crush sleeve you have to retorque it. The solid spacer doesn't require the nut to be retorqued. Maybe it wasn't torqued when you received it?
     
  20. Sep 3, 2013 at 8:35 PM
    #100
    VanCity4x

    VanCity4x Well-Known Member

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    ^^ Could have been sleve/pinion nut not torqued. When I had mine done they had to pin the pinion bearings cause they tend to ware down and spin on toyotas. They should be able to figure it out when they get it back.

    I'm def going to give mine a check over, installed a couple months ago too.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2013

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