Which UCA is better..??

I personally don't run then, but if I wanted to do a basic lift using say an OME kit I wouldn't have any problem buying a set at all.

Out of the thousands and thousands sold and people are now bashing them because theres a pic of one broke, this is just retarded to me. These were meant to replace the factory arms and offer adjustability, not to catch air on or used to blast to through the desert with. You want to do that, spend the couple hundred extra bucks and buy a set intended more for this type of abuse. This just seems like common like sense to me

 

mine have been used and abused for about 4 years now. been in the air and on the rocks. it's all about the pre and post wheeling check, to ensure your safety. that goes for even the highest quality race part. I'm religous with mine, but it seems like there are very few people who do them, and even fewer who do them with enough detail. it involves more than just crawling under your truck and looking around.

the unfortunate truth is that there are defects every now and then that you just can't catch before they go out the door.

 

Okay Scott, you posted it on TTORA which I'm not a member of. And I do see your point that it states "OEM". I and some others are wrong to assume that all BJ's manufacturers are compatible, and was not informed enough to reuse our factory BJ's from the original arms. I'll man up to that.

I measured the Moog BJ's and the UCA cups prior to contacting Camburg.
My original point is that there was no useful customer support when I needed it, and that you guys just blast people in the industry as well as your customers after the fact and steer them towards other options.

Hey, thanks for another wonderful experience chatting with you guys now that I dont need the info anymore. ha, ha, ha...........

 

http://youtu.be/jpORZdXRGig

Totally un-related to upper arms ... check out our latest video.

- Scott

 

Nice

 

sub

 

My question is for motoscott.
Do you make a UCA for first gen tacomas and 4runners that utilizes the OEM balljoint, or is this only for later generations ?

 

The very first arms we built back in 1997-1999 used the factory ball-joint in the spindle. When we developed arms using 1" uniballs instead because they are stronger and have more mis-alignment to allow for more wheel travel we phased the BJ versions out.

The reason we offer B/J arms for the newer stuff is when Toyota redesigned the front suspension they also changed the B/J to something much larger and stronger that allows for more movement.

- Scott @ Camburg

 

excellent explanation, thank you. appreciate your answering my question.

Your arms, are they 4130 and mig welded ?

 

Yep, they are MIG welded and we use US 4130 chromoly tubing, not cheap import tubing from India, etc. that some other companies use.

- Scott

 

care to elaborate ??

 

Many shops out there are cutting costs by using lower grade, lower quality tubing that's imported in. You can easily tell by the printing that is on the tubing itself to know what company and mill it came from.

My suggestion is to know what you're buying, that's all.

- Scott

 

So what's the difference in travel between the 1.25 uni ball arms compared to the ball joint arms? I'm very much leaning towards the b.j. arms for my build. What ball joints do you recommend, Scott, for install in your arms? Part number or manufacturers, no endorsement, just long term durability.

 

Bump for Scott, see above.

 

Sorry haven't logged in for a while.

Wheel travel will be the same between the two arms with most off-the-shelf coilovers. The 1.25" uniball has the ability to have more wheel travel since it has more movement/mis-alignment if the coilover allows for it.

As far as ball-joints go we recommend the OEM Toyota ball-joint. That's what the arm was designed around using. Their are aftermarket versions available but the quality of them is much lower compared to the Toyota part and their quality control is also not as good. Many times the aftermarket versions do not press into our arms correctly without modifying them slightly because the body of the ball-joint is larger in diameter many times.

- Scott @ Camburg

 

Thanks Scott. Those where the answers I was looking for. My stock ball joints have just under 50k miles on them, suitable for install into new arms?

 

I don't see that being a problem. If the boots are in good shape and their is no play in them ... run them.

Down the road when it comes time to replace them, track down some OEM ball-joint take off's or if in a pinch you can get MOOG versions and if they measure too big in diameter you can chuck them up in a lathe real quick and shave off .005" +/- to the OEM dimensions so they press in correctly.

- Scott @ Camburg

 

Thanks Scott. Good info passed along there. I appreciate that. New light in the build process.