FEELER: 2 inch thick 2.7 intake manifold spacer

The spacer won't magically cure an overall lack of power because it doesn't make the engine more powerful... just more powerful at lower rpms. So in normal driving with it will feel stronger. It will help you especially from a standing start on sand. I think in conditions like this is where it really shines the most.

I have a steep driveway that's about 90 feet long. I measured it with an inclinometer and most of it is a 10 percent grade. Every morning I drive up it with a cold engine to leave the house. I've been experimenting trying to see how slow I can crawl up the driveway and found that even down to 500 rpm it still climbs the grade and doesn't stall. At that rpm it sounds like a tractor even with the stock muffler because it's turning so slow!

Driving in Los Angeles there's always plenty of stop and go traffic, and with a stick that means lots of clutching in first gear, so the low end torque also makes it a lot easier to get the truck moving from a stop to a crawl. On level roads in traffic I can just slip the clutch with no throttle at all and it moves smoothly with no bucking.

 

Please add my name to the list.

Tks,
ks

 

Please add me to the list. It may be 2nd run before actually purchasing but definitely interested in one of these.

 

No problem, there's plenty of time. The first run hasn't even started yet. As I get the finished ones, I'll offer them for sale so it'll take a while to catch up. But sooner or later things will slow down and I'll always be able to keep a few in stock and ready to ship. Now that I know from driving that it's a practical useful product, I plan to keep these always available for a long time to anyone who wants one.

 

I would buy one.

 

Ok. Your name is also on the list.

 

I was hoping they'd be cheaper, but I get it. I'm interested, tho it's hard to peel money from my wallet so no clue if I'll actually pull the trigger.

Basic transportation/parts getter.

Any idea how well will that material takes to being drilled & tapped for fogger nozzles?~I see another, even if small, market for you.

 

Hey tooter, I don't know if you said this in this thread or not yet but everyone needs to keep in mind that those dyno numbers are NOT based on a completely stock motor with only this piece added. He has a CAI and a header as well. The actual numbers could be very minimal, if not seen at all, without these other upgrades. This could very well be something that has absolutely no effect on a stock motor. Or it could yield the same numbers. No one will really know until it is tested on a bone stock motor. I would feel perfectly comfortable buying this product and running it because I also have a CAI and a LCE header but on the flip side I would be sceptical of purchasing this for a stock motor because there is no data to go off of.

 

I def like that idea. But to compare dyno results to track results isn't gonna work. Way to many human and environmental variables on a track where as a dyno should read very consistent and precise measurements.

 

Yes. You raised an excellent point.

You will not get the same absolute numbers that I have...

...however, you will experience the difference between those two dyno runs, because the only change between them was just the spacer alone.

And I don't have a CAI...
I am the only one here who runs the dreaded and feared power robbing "warm air intake" that draws air from inside the engine compartment. (gasp! ) Which, according to the overwhelming consensus of opinion here, creates a loss of power and not a gain.

In contrast to the majority, I hold the opinion that the gains of cold air intakes are highly overrated and feel that my Injen intake is good for at least a few ponies.

Now, I do have an LCE header, and it accounted for dropping the torque peak from 3,800 rpm down to 3,150 rpm. I know this because the Toyota factory dynoed their bone stock 2.7 and got a peak of 3,800 rpm, and I dynoed my 2.7 with the header and got a peak of 3,150 rpm.

Lengthening the intake manifold runners on any engine, stock or not, will definitely drop the torque curve lower in the rpm range, because that effect is based upon fixed physical laws.

So whatever your stock engine's peak torque was before won't increase... because on my engine, with an intake and header, the torque peak didn't increase either. It's worth repeating that my torque peak was only moved lower in the rpm range, and it was also fattened up a bit, but the absolute peak did not increase.

I'm glad you raised this issue. Everyone needs to look closely at that comparative before and after dyno chart.

The peak torque is not increased... just moved down lower in the rpm range.

 

You do have the advantage of having made enough drag runs to form a real world performance profile for your 2.7, and if you run some more with the spacer, that will also form a performance profile. Then you can compare the two profiles and determine if there is any difference between them positive or negative.

I'll make a prediction from driving with the spacer installed:

You'll get a quicker hole shot.

 

Yeah man I hope you don't think I'm trying to put this down or anything. I love the fact that it lowers the torque curve. Just want everyone to understand exactly what's goin on here and sometimes having someone, besides the person selling the product, point things out it helps.

 

I appreciate your input as an impartial party...
You're helping to make everything as clear as possible before anyone even decides whether or not they want to buy one.

The goal is for everyone's expectations to be as close to reality as possible.

 

I totally understand your situation, Donzi... and don't mind letting you know all of my costs and how I arrived at $225.

edit:Sorry, because of the increased cost of the nylon blocks and extra tooling and jig costs, the spacers will be offered for $245.

CNC machining and nylon block: $140
Toyota #17177-75040 OEM O ring gasket: $24
Mounting hardware threaded studs and bolts: $8
USPS Priority Mail shipping: $13
nylon specific machine tool: $50

This brings my total cost per unit to $200.
A 22.5% markup puts it at the $245 selling price.
So I make a profit of $45 on each unit sold.



Note that this doesn't include the $500 in R&D costs of designing, raw material and CNC tool costs, the labor to machine the prototype, and two dyno testing sessions. At $45 per unit profit, if I sell 12 units I'll be happy just to break even. So you see that this is not a money making venture... it's just a creative fun hobby and I'll be satisfied if it can just pay for itself.

I have a day job that makes money.

 

the oem 2.7L w/ a 5 speed manual 5 LUG has 3.31 rear gear

 

I am interested in buying one.

I use my 2004 extra cab as a daily driver, towing utility trailer (2 motorcycle size), 4X4in

Brian

 

How much did parts and labor cost to change your gears? That's how you weigh the cost to benefit ratio. And I really like my tall 3:31 street geared truck because at 60 mph, the engine is only turning 2,000rpm and gets 29mpg on the freeway. This way I have low end and high end.

 

Ok, Brian.
I'll update the list now.

Greg

This is the list so far...

PRODUCTION ESTIMATION LIST

1. Island
2. SingleCabGuy
3. camojared
4. cmanhonor
5. Kavic
6. nettto
7. EquinsuOcha
8. Millertime187
9. ItsHerTruck
10. 08soufjerz
11. allmotorrex
12. 2007 Tacoma
13. 05taco2.7
14. kcbmx
15. nfs257
16. volcom7377
17. tacowagon
18. Kilo Sierra
19. T@coPr3runn3r
20. melliot15
21. 2004TacomaNavy
22. vtragweed
23. lb86
24. Hagen

 

And the 5 speed 2.7 4x4 has 4.10's stock...pretty sure anyways