OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

^^^ This is a really well-known problem and falls into one of three catagories:

1. Follow the instructions exactly. On mine I must be fully at a stop, in neutral, plant the clutch to the fire wall, push in the 4WD switch, and slowly turn it.

2. Even though it is a 4lo problem, the front ADD has a feedback mechanism to the 4WD ECU that can affect this.

3. Us it or lose it. The 4WD actuator on the transfer case itself is known to be a bad part on early vehicles and there was actually a part change about 2008 as I recall. A lot of the problems were because it was not being used and would stick or water would get in there and gum it up. Don't even try to take it apart without first reading the write-ups.

I can't link it for you now because I am traveling and the only thing I have is dial-up, but do a search and there is an entire thread about this on Toyota Nation and other Tacoma technical sites. In other words, there is a bunch of info.

I had the best luck using Google starting the search with the word "Tacoma" followed by "will not go into 4lo" or other such variants. The Toyota Nation thread is a good one because it gives diagnostics. As I remember the title of it begins something like "My Turn for Help with....". Maybe if 05Moose is reading this he can jump in and give the TN link. Otherwise try a PM to him here or over there.

Good luck.

 

Sure, put me on the spot. :lol:

I think this is the thread you remember (RTFM is good with electrical troubleshooting steps).

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/61-2nd-generation-2005/534914-tacoma-not-going-4low.html

 

Thanks , I knew you guys would have some info.

 

it was the clutch switch, I have been using the clutch start cancel switch on the dash because the floor switch under the clutch did not work . I don't see what is wrong with the floor switch so I used a rubber stick on thing on the clutch pedal to push the switch in. now it goes right into 4 wheel low. Thanks again for the help.

 

Hi All, First off wanted to say that I'm a new member that greatly appreciates the Tacoma Tech Forum. My truck is a 2008 Tacoma TRD 4x4 Sport, access cab w/tow package. I have read thru hours of threads on different subjects that have been very helpful. However, I still have a problem (of course). I have a low frequency growl coming from the front end on the passenger side. I know for sure it is the passenger side because everyone that rides with me can plainly hear it. It starts around 25 mph and is pretty loud all the way to 55 mph before it slowly fades. I cannot find the problem. Wheel bearing was the first thing I checked and it appeared to be fine, but due to lack of any other symptoms I went ahead and replaced the bearing with the help of your threads on the subject. No change to the growl unfortunately. The cv axle appears to be in good condition. I have a stock truck with no lift mods ever installed. I bought it new and have 62,000 on the odometer, so no warranty due to mileage and year. My question is, has the passenger side differential bearing ever been a problem on any 2nd generation Tacoma's? EastCoastGear Supply has told me that their bushing is only for the driver's side, and that the passenger side bearing does not fail because it does not support the passenger side cv axle the way the drivers side does. They also stated that the passenger side differential cannot be serviced without removing the differential from the vehicle. Can someone verify that what they say is correct? If so, I would appreciate any help with finding the cause. One more thing, the noise is steady on straight aways and left turns, but subsides momentarily on right hand turns. Thanks

 

Well now that your familiar with the bearing situation, go ahead and take a look at the driver side. I had this exact problem. Took both bearings off checked them and gave them the all clear. Waited about 2 weeks and checked them again. Turned out it was the opposite side I swear I heard it on and the bearing was about to seize this time around.
Just sayin.
As for any other vibration sounds, maybe check to see that your tires are still balanced and your brakes are in good condition.

 

^^^^^THIS^^^^^

double check the opposite side, the noise can resonate through the drive train & sound like it's the opposite side.. I've ran into that plenty of times.

Also, grab the CV @ the differential & give it a good wiggle up & down taking note of the play. My truck had a noise between 55 & 65 which turned out to be a worn roller bearing, fixed it with the bushing from ECGS.

 

^^^ My money is on the wheel bearing or the ball bearing on the right side where the RH CV shaft enters the ADD tube. Too many new wheel bearings are messed up during the pressing process by not following the exact instructions only to find out soon after it was replaced that they have a mystery noise appear but the wheel bearing is dismissed out of hand because "it was just replaced."

As far as the front diff goes there is a second and exact type of needle bearing on the right side of the diff a well as on the left in essentially the same location. What is different though is the right CV shaft feeds into a ball bearing, not a needle bearing. The ball bearing on mine exceeded the factory slop specs. and it led me to keep digging. The ADD tube separates the ball bearing and needle bearing by a goodly distance.

But.............. a short stub shaft feeds into the right side just just like the left. Mine was all torn up by the needle bearing on the right side so I had to replace the stub shaft, pull the factory needle bearing, and put another ECGS bushing on the right side too. Chase at ECGS is well aware of the situation with my right side that I encountered.

Mine was probably a fluke or just a total POS differential that gave me so many problems on both sides. I don't believe that needle bearing on the right actually produces many problems in reality, so I would generally put it low on the list of suspects.

Get the thing elevated and find a helper. Start pinpointing the noise while the drive train is spinning.

 

Funny that this thread was bumped today. I was on a freshly paved road and the noise I always attributed to my BFG A/T's was actually the needle bearing. Just for the piece of mind, I kicked my 4H on and the noise went away. Turned it back to 2H and let off the gas, then got back on it....noise returned.

When I got home, got under the rig and wiggled the driver's side CV shaft, lots o' slop up and down and in and out. I only have 28.5K on mine. Hope it holds out until after December when I can get my Christmas money. May as well do some 5100's all the way around while I'm at it, too.

 

Thanks for the reply. I'll try to pinpoint where it is coming from with a helper. One thing I forgot to mention is that the noise does not go away when I'm in 4 wheel drive. The noise is always present between 25-55. The wheel bearing was purchased with the hub assay included as a complete unit, so I'm hoping it was done correctly, but mistakes do happen. Will let you know how it goes.

 

Ok guys, I have a new problem that im feeling and maybe you can help me with advice.

Background:

-2010 Toyota Tacoma 4wd Sport Access Cab with 52k miles
-Replaced the diff fluids at 10k miles with mobil 1
-I grease the drive shaft every 5k with Mobil 1 synthetic grease
-I just replaced the shocks with 5100's set at 0.85" and added a top plate 1/4" spacer
-Shortly after the shocks I replaced the tires with Michelin LTX MS2's and had it aligned to the following specs:
Front Caster- Left @ 1.8 Right @ 2.2
Front Camber- Left @ 0.4 Right @ 0.4
Toe- Left @ 0.05 Right @ 0.05

The Problem:

After installing the shocks, the truck felt like there was rolling resistance and I felt a slight binding/growling from the front. It appears to be coming from the left. I thought it was because the alignment was far out from the shock replacement. When I finally got it on the alignment rack I saw that it wasn't that far off and after the alignment the feeling was still there. My thought is that the wheel bearing is going bad.

Started to do research and it sounds like my problem could be Carrier Bearing Angle, Wheel Bearing or front Diff Bearing. Since the feeling is coming from the front, I dont think its the CB. Im going to try to flip on the 4wd and see if the feeling goes away.

If it is the front diff then what are my best options for repair? I have the extended warranty from Toyota so should I have them diagnose it and possibly replace the front diff? Is there any damage in the front diff or is the needle bearing the only issue? My goal is long term reliability.

 

If it goes away in 4wd, then you will need to change out the driver side diff bearing. This is a better alternative to a bearing http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing.html and it has worked for me for close to 50k miles so far.

 

Diagnose first then check back in.

I had the worn needle bearing, installed the ECGS bushing & it's been great for almost 10k miles.

 

I've checked a couple things today. First, there is a lot of play in the drivers side axle where it mounts to the clamshell. The passenger side has barely any play.

I tried to pay more attention to what I am feeling. I don't hear anything and there is no severe vibration that you feel in the steering. The best way I can describe it is as a subtle vibration in the pedal/floor as if something was causing resistance, like a very bad alignment issue. Since the alignment is in spec and this happened before the tires it must be related to the 1" of lift that came from replacing the stock shocks with 5100's.

I don't think anything is rubbing. Brakes could be dragging but I don't see how that is possible. CV angles are greater but not by much since it was a small lift. My CB shouldn't have been affected since I didn't lift the rear. By ruling everything out that I can think of, it must be the front diff needle bearing. Can anyone confirm the feeling of slight resistance/humming being remedied by the ECGS needle bushing? Maybe this isn't as noticeable because I caught it early and if so I would like to fix it before it scores my axle.

I don't have the equipment to install this myself and its hard to justify buying all the tools necessary on a hunch from an EMTs pay. Hopefully I can do more research and diagnose this. Any I input will be appreciated.

Any members have or know of someone who has done the ECGS needle bearing install near the Costa Mesa/OC area?

 

Did you try putting it in 4wd to see if it went away? What speed range are you feeling the vibration? If you take a hard right turn around 40 mph (assuming you have a turn available at that speed), does it disappear on the turn? And just FYI, the ECGS bushing does not have any needles in it. Stock part is a needle roller bearing, ECGS part is a bushing.

 

To diagnose the driver side diff bearing, drive strait at a speed that you feel/hear your vibration, then at that exact moment, flip the switch to 4 hi. The second you flip the switch and the vibe goes away, you will know that it is the driver side diff bearing. If this is the case, just buy the bushing, or a replacement bearing, and the corresponding diff seal and take it to a shop and direct them to the ECGS site and this thread for reference. You can also get to know your LA area TW mwmbers to see if they would be willing to assist you. Good luck

 

The sound and feeling is minimal now so that when I put it in 4wd the feeling changes slightly but since I'm on pavement I still feel resistance from the 4wd. I guess that a good way to describe the feeling now. Its the feeling of being in 4wd on dry pavement, even though I am in 2wd.

Thanks for the clarifications on the parts. This is the first I am learning about front diff and components.

 

Its not that bad now but it is noticeably different than before the lift. I would like to avoid replacing the diff although I have an extended warranty. I'm trying to diagnose before it gets worse but I might just have to wait. If the bearing is starting to go I would rather wait until the dealer is wiling to replace the bearing and then install the ecgs bushing.

 

The dealer won't replace the bearings, they'll replace the whole diff and you'll be back to square one, because the bearing is the weak point and will fail again. That's if they don't try to blame your lift for the bearing failure. They like to pork you over if they can blame something else.

 

how do the hubs feel? lift the front end, grab the tire at 12 & 6 and check for any play. Also rotate the tire listening for grinding or this resistance your speaking of.