Superwhite Monster

yeah saving for a couple years, now its time to do one major build and hopefully not have to redo anything afterwards, will only have to get it caged but that will probably happen either next fall or winter if i decide to do it.

 

That's madness. Cage would be nice to have. What kind of LT in front are you going to use?

 

still undecided on how wide i want to go, if 3.5 over per side it will be the dirt designs kit, if 2 over per side im leaning towards total chaos cause of the stainless 1 inch uniballs, since nobody makes 1.25 uniballs in stainless for the allpro kit.

 

These work? this is what I'm looking for. http://www.jcwhitney.com/cv-drive-a...50065y2011j1&gclid=CPapt_Twu7kCFWxo7Aod5RwAUA

 

Was wondering what steered you away from getting a rear axle from a TRD-OR, ive been looking into this option as a cheaper way to lock my rear TRD sport. I havnt had much luck in finding ANYONE that has done this.

 

That's because an arb in the non elocker housing is way stronger, and you don't have to worry about spinning bearings.

 

For someone that will only need the locker for 5% of the wheeling i do.. i dont think the price of an ARB is entirely worth it. But i want a locker for that 5% cuz it might save my ass a winching from my brothers jeep

 

Way more simple to go with arb. Glad I didn't use a trd rear end. Whole rear axle must be replaced, then the wiring, switches, harnesses, blah blah blah. Arb is really simple!

 

yeah but for the mild wheeler, whats the cost comparison? maybe its not worth it to swap at all but there's a wrecker near by that has these axles as far as i know

 

Well if you can do it cheaper, by all means do that.

However, from mild to wild, ARB will get the job done. And you'll have on board air, which you'll need for wheeling.

 

To add to this arb vs e-locker discussion... I've been less than impressed with the e-locker. It works but not exactly when you want it to. It takes some coaxing to get it to engage.

 

And a downside to the arb is the compressor. I've managed to kill two

$323 ckma12 on-board air compressor high performance 12 volt for air locker differentials and tire inflation

ckma12's?

 

ooo, no fun there... Could you use a back up CO2 tank?

 

It's possible I suppose. I'd need a regulator to keep the lressure below 100 psi. But it would work. However, I just carry an extra compressor.

 

pick your poison I guess.

 

is that your only complaint? because it sounds about the same as trying to get into 4Hi. i have to roll the truck a bit to get it to engage.

the way i see it, locker and compressor purchase and install is what, 3k? if i could get the offroad axle and install for less than a grand id be thrilled.

 

It takes a bit longer than 4wd to engage sometimes... but yea, when it engages it works fine. Used it for 3 miles of trail coming out of shoshone lake which was all rock obstacles up-hill this summer. Definitely helped push me over some stuff I may have had to hit a second time if I was open diffd.

 

3000 for a rear arb is excessive. I paid a little over that for f&r arb and new gears, installed in new housings.


Probably 1500. Depends on if you want a complete differential, or you want to install the locker yourself.

I would be surprised if you could find a complete e-locker rear axle with the correct gear ratio for less then $1000.

 

Challenge accepted ill be looking into it. im not interested in busting knuckles trying to do installs. did you install your front/rear arb yourself?

 

I got complete diffs from ECGS. I don't have the right tools to install them myself.