AR-15 BS Thread

I'm not sure, to be honest i haven't found a gun like mine from the factory.
but it was cheaper than my dad's colt.
Here's my build
It cost me just under $1,100 to build, but that was without the cost of the BCG (a friend payed for it because it took so long for it to come in)
My build is more of a gun for range, i'll be swapping the red dot for a real scope soon, and ill build a 14.5'' (P&W) upper for my close ranges.

 

No, you'll be fine. Part of the process of becoming a good shot with any gun is learning to read your sights, and as you know it varies from gun to gun. There are prescribed methods for using your ghost ring sights, but in the end the way you decide to sight in and read them - whether that's a six o'clock hold or dead-center hold - is totally up to you
Believe me, if I can shoot nickle-sized groups at 25 yards with iron sights, ANYONE can do it.

I use a six o'clock hold, but there are aftermarket front sight posts that are skinnier, have dots, and some that even have crosshairs so that you can use whatever hold you're comfortable/effective with.

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...87_a_7c7313_a_7c923000038_d_923000038_d_10866


http://www.midwayusa.com/product/49...t-ar-15-hooded-duplex-crosshair-reticle-matte

 

Ok so I am begging to better educate myself on the many ar platforms and parts that are out there. In the military all I knew was what they gave us obviously. I have been out for some time now and want to get on to mainly have fun with. I mean who doesn't like to shoot s**t up? I know that building one would be what most of you say to do so that you know it is "your" weapon what was put in to it. I do like that idea but think I like the idea of just getting a complete rifle more. I have looked at Stag, DMPS, RRA, S&W, and bushmaster. I think it will come down to one of these manufactures just not sure what one I will choose. I like the stag piston driven systems they have really caught my eye. If anyone else has any useful info or criticism I will gladly accept it.

 

Of the names you listed, DPMS and Bushmaster are generally considered to be on the bottom end of the more well known makers. And although Stag is an affordable gun, they have a great warranty. Their sister company is Colt, so they also have that going for them.

I guess a good place to start would be to consider your budget. What is it? Then, what kind of shooting do you plan to do? There are too many possibilties and directions to point you in to without knowing this.

 

I would like to spend no more that around $1,200-$1,300 on a rifle. Also as far as what kind of shooting it would be at a range or around the hunting lease I am on. Nothing really long range maybe a few 300-400 meter tagets. Mostly just for fun around the house and with friends who also have Ar's. Stag is affordable and from what little I have read people have been satisfied with them

 

for that kind of money, go for a colt: http://dsgarms.com/ProductInfo/COLE6920MP-B.aspx

.....or just build your own, easy as pie

 

I really like the idea of building my own. Just not a clue where to start or what parts to get. Not there on the confidence level to build on. I am sure with more reading it will come as well as more knowledge.

 

Building is a piece of cake. Much moreso the lower than the upper since you don't really need any special tools to do it.
First thing you need to do is pick out a stripped lower receiver. Any mil spec receiver is going to be more or less the same as the next. There are only a few different forges that make them, then they are sold to machine shops who machine them out to the exact same specs and apply whatever rollmark(brand/logo) is required by the final manufacturer.
So a Spike's is the same as a Stag is the same as a Daniel Defense, Colt, LMT, JD, Noveske, etc., etc., etc. The only difference from one mil spec receiver to the next is the roll mark.
The differences come when you start looking into Billett receivers, which are nice and can have some extra features, but are functionally the same as a $100 mil spec receiver.
Next, find yourself a lower parts kit(LPK). This bag of parts contains everything needed to complete your lower except for your stock assembly. It looks daunting at first, but you can find instructional videos on Youtube that will walk you through it. it's really simple if you are even just OK working with your hands.
Before you can complete your lower, you need to have a stock assembly. There are so many available that you'll have to look around to find something you like. The only thing I can tell you is make sure you buy MIL SPEC PARTS. Avoid anything that says "commercial." Don't ask why, just do it.

That's pretty much it. Once you have all the parts in-hand, you are an hour or less away from a complete lower receiver. Uppers are somewhat more involved, so you may want to buy one complete as your first.

Click the links!

 

For sub 800 a smith and Wesson m&p sport is a great rifle. The barrel is treated with melonite. Arguable better than chrome lined (more durable and more accurate). Second up is the psa (palmetto state armory) m4 PRO rilfe. It's a basic ar-15 with nothing fancy except an aimpoint pro. I believe the s&w is 1/8 twist. Most of the ammo you'll be shooting is probably 55 grain, you'll be fine with either.
http://palmettostatearmory.com/inde...psa-16-m4-premium-patrol-carbine-package.html

They also have an eotech version.

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/20...ger/-gun-review-smith-and-wesson-mp15-sport/

Spend the money on ammo to shoot instead of rifle. And get some quality iron sights or optics.

 

Oh and palmetto state armory always have deals on uppers and lowers. Stripped too. Last I saw was a complete magpul lower for 250

 

After reading that builing one doesn't sound so bad after all. As far as the upper goes just basically mil spec and something that will fit my needs? Also I can make a pretty good assumtion as to why you would want the parts to be mil spec parts.

 

As uppers go, mil spec really only matters when talking about the bolt carrier group(BCG). A mil spec BCG will have a very specific finish and QC method to ensure that it meets military standards along with the gas key being properly staked.
Are all of these things necessary? You'll get lots of answers, but the short one is "no," because there are better finishes and more stringent tests that non-military contracted companies will do to ensure their own quality and performance standards, which in a lot of cases exceed the mil spec.
Beyond that, your biggest concern is the barrel. My only advice is to avoid anything that is chambered specifically for .223 as that limits you to factory .223 ammo and handloads. Always get a 5.56 chamber, and if that's not available, then a .223 WYLDE chamber will also do you well, and in almost all cases be the more desired chambering. Reason being that either of those two chamberings will allow you to fire both .223 and 5.56 through them.

If buying a complete upper, look at a place like Rainier Arms(for example) or other companies like Riflegear and Bravo Company who aren't going to carry any .223 chambered uppers.

As mil spec uppers go, aside from Colt, this LMT is as basic and "mil spec" as it gets. It is the real deal. The 14.5" barrel length will require you to install a longer muzzle device and have it permanently attached to meet the minimum NFA standards(16"), OR you could just get the 16" version and be done with it. Some people just prefer to go through the extra trouble to have that slightly shorter barrel, though. Remember, that's the basic build. There are so many configurations that you'll wnat to do some digging and find somethig that you really like.

 

I knew about the issue with having a .22 chamber so 5.56 is for sure the way to go. I may get a complete upper like you said from a company who only makes 5.56. If I do build one all parts will be mil spec. So I guess really as long as the parts are all mil spec it doesn't matter what brand upper and lower you go with then? Just whatever name you like best seems like it. I am sure that if you really break it down then there are some things that come into play as far as brands go.

 

x2
the only reason i went 223 wylde is because i want the most possible accuracy out of my gun while being able to shoot 5.56.

 

OP, I edited my previous post to add a few things to help get you started looking.

Yep. I put together a MK12 wth a .223 Wylde as well. It shoots noticeably tighter with handloads than my 5.56 M4.

 

Thanks man! Very helpful

 

Thinkin about buyin an AR. Gander Mountain has a Bushmaster .223 with red dot sight for $799 that I'm lookin at.

 

I gotta admit my current AR rocks but I payed 2200 for it and now I am going to get a colt so I don't have to worry about scratching the finish or taking it to the woods