Oregon and Washington BS thread

Should. But it isn't. I would love to grab my books for this kind of electrical work. Battery powered is a lot different in voltage than household ac voltages. It really does matter where you attach the ground to.

 

The steel frame is being used as an earth ground in vehicles, which corresponds to the green or bare wire in house wiring. the negative (black lead) of the battery corresponds to the white wire in house wiring, and that white is referred to as the common. the battery negative has a wire that goes to the frame of the vehicle, so as to tie it all together. if you look at the neutral bus in any residential wiring, it gets grounded out as well. if you go looking around at the grounding done on some of the electrical within any vehicle, you will find some wiring that seems to go to the frame, or some other metal component. technically, the frame and battery negative are not quite the same thing, but they are bonded together, electrically speaking.

 

We can agree someone else is going to need to look at it. I don't have mine hooked up to a relay (although I should sooner or later), but I am sure I can figure it out even without a meter. I have 10 years of aircraft electrical which isn't much different than cars.

 

Alright well if anyone is near me (Shoreline) and is willing to meet up whenever they're free, I'd be game for that. Brady I know you offered earlier today, so I'd be willing to take you up on that. Whoever else volunteers for this issue I'm facing just PM me.

Thanks for your guys' input on this problem so far!

 

Is it just me or does a 30amp fuse seem to be a little over done for those lights. Maybe that is where you are having trouble

 

Wish i could help ya, but electrical is not my forte.

Id be willing to bet its something small hanging you up though.

 

That's just what LightForce provided within the Wiring Harness Kit soooo that's what I used

I sure hope so and I think it's something small also. I just don't know enough in the electrical department to correctly diagnose where I went wrong

 

They are 100 watt halogens, they definitely pull a lot of power. I have the LF170s with their wiring kit and seems like 30 amps is correct. But its been a while since I did mine and can't recall for sure tho.

From the pics that SeattleCoug posted, the relay is marked as a 40 amp.

Do you have a volt meter? Sometimes its hard to tell with a visual inspection whether those larger blade fuses are blown. Put a meter across the blades to verify its not open.

 

Double check all of your connections.

Yes, I know that it sounds stupid; but fundamentally it could be the cause of your issues.

Was convinced that my Yaesu 2 Meter had give up the ghost on me. Hell, even went so far as to drive to HRO in Portland...

I felt like an absolute idiot when I determined it was a bad crimp job on a ring terminal.


Exactly how'd you wire up that rocker? I've got 4 of them in my rig... They're fairly straightforward; although, they will not work if wired incorrectly.

Pics of switch wiring?

 

Still feeling wobbly on 217

 

tiress....

 

You wanna check them for me? Seriously ill have Lindsay drI've oit tomorrow while your at schwabs

 

Not working tomorrow - im going up North

 

I used my volt meter & checked the continuity of the fuse, everything was good there.

I double checked all of my connections (though there are only 3) -- positive terminal on the battery (yellow wire), negative terminal on the battery (black wire), and the good earth ground on the frame of the vehicle (black/yellow wire).

After doing this the LightForce lights work when it the switch is hooked up like so...



My problem now is figuring out how to have the blue rocker switch light be on only when the lights are activated....

I can get it like this when the black/red wire is in the same slot & the brown wire is on the top (#8) slot of the rocker switch.

 

Ground out 8
Send 7 to the dimmer - (white/purple I believe)
Send 6 to positive line of any other lighted switch, or the dimmer

I believe that's the ticket...

Here's some info on some of the similar switches that I used.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lighting/211268-fog-light-switch-wiring-2.html#post7374422

 

Question about the brake booster. The port furthest from the brake booster operates the front brakes and the closest is for the rear, correct?

 

Gonna call the dealership tomorrow to see about the LBJ recall, if not probably going to be replacing those next and might as well do tierods while I am down there. This wobble will go away!!

 

I should be in the area this weekend

 

Plans?

 

Was gonna ask you guys the same thing