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Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by Supra TT, Feb 20, 2012.

Page 124 of 728
  1. Sep 6, 2013 at 10:19 PM
    #2461
    45acp

    #2461
    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    45acp, Sep 6, 2013
    #2461
  2. Sep 9, 2013 at 9:12 AM
    #2462
    J88logue

    #2462
    J88logue NorthWest Member

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    J88logue, Sep 9, 2013
    #2462
  3. Sep 9, 2013 at 2:37 PM
    #2463
    45acp

    #2463
    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    I finally sourced some SRW hubs/rotors. Was a 3 hour drive to get them but they only asked for $40 so I'm happy haha. Came off a dana 50 ttb axle on a (I think) late 80's F250.

    [​IMG]
     
    45acp, Sep 9, 2013
    #2463
  4. Sep 9, 2013 at 4:19 PM
    #2464
    Supra TT

    #2464
    Supra TT [OP] Supercharged Lifter

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    So my knowledge on them hubs was right then! (hopefully :anonymous:)
     
    Supra TT, Sep 9, 2013
    #2464
  5. Sep 10, 2013 at 9:08 AM
    #2465
    45acp

    #2465
    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Yeah, anything past the spindles on a 50 ttb is interchangeable on a D60. Spindles and axle shafts are not.
     
    45acp, Sep 10, 2013
    #2465
  6. Sep 10, 2013 at 9:18 AM
    #2466
    NwiTACO

    #2466
    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Glad your squared away with the hubs now.
     
    NwiTACO, Sep 10, 2013
    #2466
  7. Sep 11, 2013 at 5:54 PM
    #2467
    45acp

    #2467
    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    I started tacking in the front link crossmember and the new frame forward of the cab. Been rechecking measurements and this is about as close as I can get it on the calculator.

    [​IMG]

    Whaddya think?

    Bottom of frame would be about 26", crossmember sits about 2" lower than that. If everything fits the way I'm hoping it will, I should have about 6-7" of up travel. Gonna run 2.25 OD x .375 wall DOM for the lowers.

    How would I figure out how long the upper link should be to achieve minimal caster change? It sits at a different angle than the lowers so that throws me off.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2013
    45acp, Sep 11, 2013
    #2467
  8. Sep 12, 2013 at 6:00 AM
    #2468
    NwiTACO

    #2468
    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Make an upper that 75% the length of your lower. That's a good place to start. As for link calc numbers see the response I got below:

     
    NwiTACO, Sep 12, 2013
    #2468
  9. Sep 12, 2013 at 11:13 AM
    #2469
    45acp

    #2469
    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Flat roll axis? I thought the object was to get the lower links as flat as possible?


    Also, been busy making brackets with the angle grinder. Pain in the ass!

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2013
    45acp, Sep 12, 2013
    #2469
  10. Sep 12, 2013 at 9:30 PM
    #2470
    thegame

    #2470
    thegame Well-Known Member

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    PLASMA!!
     
    thegame, Sep 12, 2013
    #2470
  11. Sep 12, 2013 at 9:44 PM
    #2471
    45acp

    #2471
    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    I'd have to fork over a lot of cash (that I don't really have anyway) to get one up and running.:(



    Edit-
    Don't have the money because I'm blowing it on other things. :eek: Just sent in my order to Inchworm.

    Is there any reason I shouldn't run 1/4" wall for the drive shafts?
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2013
    45acp, Sep 12, 2013
    #2471
  12. Sep 13, 2013 at 5:14 PM
    #2472
    45acp

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    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Not pretty, but I think I'm satisfied with the way the brackets are turning out


    [​IMG]
     
    45acp, Sep 13, 2013
    #2472
  13. Sep 13, 2013 at 10:54 PM
    #2473
    JLee

    #2473
    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.

    If your going to run the rig on the road i wouldn't do 1/4" on the rear its just too long and will eat up u joints Go as big as you can on the diameter to make them stronger. I went with 3.5"x.134 wall for my rear and the front i did 2.5"x.250 wall
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2013
    JLee, Sep 13, 2013
    #2473
  14. Sep 16, 2013 at 1:19 AM
    #2474
    92LandCruiser

    #2474
    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    So for 3 link....


    36" lowers or longer, as flat and parallel as possible. Upper 70 to 80% of lower length. 8" or more vertical separation. Gonna run JJs or maybe barnes' joints... On both ends of all links. Thinking 7/8 heims for panhard.

    Yeah?
     
    92LandCruiser, Sep 16, 2013
    #2474
  15. Sep 16, 2013 at 1:28 AM
    #2475
    45acp

    #2475
    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    not yeah but fuck yeah!!!!!
     
    45acp, Sep 16, 2013
    #2475
  16. Sep 16, 2013 at 1:29 AM
    #2476
    45acp

    #2476
    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    i think my lower links are 47"
     
    45acp, Sep 16, 2013
    #2476
  17. Sep 16, 2013 at 1:31 AM
    #2477
    45acp

    #2477
    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    10-4 thanks my only concern is the drivers side link hitting the drive shaftt
     
    45acp, Sep 16, 2013
    #2477
  18. Sep 16, 2013 at 1:31 AM
    #2478
    45acp

    #2478
    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    but make the upper link adjustbale at the frame end 8" is relative.m completely depands on teh rig.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2013
    45acp, Sep 16, 2013
    #2478
  19. Sep 16, 2013 at 4:49 AM
    #2479
    92LandCruiser

    #2479
    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    They'll all be adjustable with left and right joints. 8" because 40s and cummins

    I know I risk knocking jam nuts on rocks but It'll be okay...


    And 47" hot damn!
     
    92LandCruiser, Sep 16, 2013
    #2479
  20. Sep 16, 2013 at 5:01 AM
    #2480
    92LandCruiser

    #2480
    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    Frame side separation?
     
    92LandCruiser, Sep 16, 2013
    #2480
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