255/85 R16 Owners Experience

So, you guys are good without aftermarket UCAs?

Does the spare fit or not?

 

I have factory UCAs for now. If you air down the spare a bunch, I would assume it would fit. I just whipped up a bed rack to mount it on for now

 

I'm really tempted to put some 255s on my truck with LT...

 

Whipped up? That looks pretty damn good for just whipped up LOL.

 

This thread was a really good read!
wish the poll itself had more hits….. rated it 5 stars!

 

Thanks. I weld for a living. Building stuff for my truck is a strees reliever

 

BAM! DONE! Read all 67 pages. (I cant work in the rain, so I had some time this week). I definitely am going with 255/85/r16 km2, since there is no Cooper S/T Maxx... yet?? Here is my problem. I got excited when the wife said I could buy wheels, and jumped online to get the Pro Comp 16x8 4"b.s. I was thinking stock 2nd Gen B.S. was 4.5". I figured I could work in that extra .5". I did not even factor in the 8" wide rim compared to7". So here I sit with these wheels that are essentially going to shove my tire 2.5" out and ruin any chance of the 255 fitting INSIDE the fender, or clearing the fenders, or maybe even the headlights st that point.(despite a few random people thinking "if it doesn't fit, add more spacers).

Good news... I am supposedly going to be better of with my stock wheels, or a set of 1st Gen stock Steelies. Thanks for the info, 4wheelin4banger (What is your opinion of trying a steely from 2nd gen)

If any fat tire guys want to buy brand new 16x8 Pro comps, let me know. Or if anyone knows Wheelers return policy, let me know.

I'm working on the theory that these tires are only half an inch wider then what is on my truck now. The uca should still clear and the only other issues will/might be the cab mount. My mud flaps are long gone.
Thank you to this thread

I do not have a lift yet, but one guy talked till he was blue in the face about suspension having the same travel (not according to mall crawlers). I agree. I plan on making some long off-road treks, so I'm going to trim what I have to now, so I know it will clear when I lift and go off-road. Thank you, xxxx.

I will tell the tire shop to set toe at 0, camber at 0, and caster at 3... Thanks to... Oz-T, I believe?

If any of that sounds wrong, let me know.

If Cooper comes out with their S/T Maxx, let me know.

2.5 year thread. NICE!

 

Hope you're okay with all the flooding. Lyons got hit pretty bad.

 

What's your stock tire size? On no lift, it will be tight and will probably rub a good amount, even on speed bumps, etc. Probably going to need to at least take off the mud flaps if you haven't already.

The STT Maxx's are supposed to be coming out in the fall if you just want to wait a month or two instead of getting the KM2's, which are a little overkill if you don't plan on running into that much mud, etc.

Also, the general consensus is that our trucks work out well with the alignment at: 0* toe, 0* camber, 2.5* caster if you can get that out of your UCA's. (this will be difficult on a lifted truck with stock UCA's)

Matt

 

1. My stock tireis 245/75 r16 Rubbing = Cutting, and I'm okay with that.

2. I might stick with the km2's. My job sites get pretty muddy, and I use this truck for work ALOT.

3. So it might be best to get UCA's with the lift? I was thinking I would cut to fit now, and add the lift later.

Is it stupid to get uca's without a lift, just so I know where everything is going to ride.

I was planning on bilstein 5100 coil-overs up front, and a all-pro expedition leaf pack in the back. I haul alot of stuff for work and it gets pretty loaded some times. (9 bags of pre-mix at 90# a piece is just the beginning)

Trying to piece this build together. I know I need better tires NOW. I can't hardly get home on the wimpy street tires that the last owner put on. Can not afford all at once, so...

If any of this sounds dumb, let me know. Or talk the wife into letting me spend $3000 on the truck, and problem solved.

 

Honestly, I would tell you to put the UCA's on while you are doing the lift because you will have the suspension torn apart anyway.

You can get the Bilstein adjustable coilovers (around $820) or get just regular 5100's and Eibach (set 5100's at 0.85") or OME (set 5100's at 0") springs to get around 2.5-3" of lift. There are 3 different OME springs for 2nd Gen's with different lengths/spring rates you can pair with 5100's or OME front shocks. Really though, I would recommend coilovers like Icon or King if you really want to do it right the first time.

In the rear, it sounds like the AP Expo pack will be good for you, but you will also need longer shocks in the rear. You can get 5100's (version for 3-4" of lift), OME rear shocks, etc.

Matt

 

Yeah. I said that wrong. I was wanting 5100 on all four. I've been leaning towards the Ironman lift actually. It seems to keep the lifting to a minimum, but I could get some heavy duty leafs for the rear. I really don't want to lift much past 2". Which is why I know I had better plan on trimming.

What is the reason behind suggesting Icon, or Kings, rather then say... ome with dakaars, or the Ironman Kit?

I do plan on eventually getting a winch bumper, and high clearance rear, with the tire carrier. So I'm trying to factor in future weight also.

 

There's nothing wrong with OME (it's actually a solid kit that I've really heard no one complain about) but Icon/King are generally considered to be of (a little) higher quality and a little better with travel and "faster" offroading.

If you're going to be adding weight, I would recommend getting the OME 886 springs for the front and Dakar's with the overload leaf in (or an extra leaf, I can't remember how OME does it.

I've heard good things about the Ironman kit actually for around a 2" lift. OME with the 886's and Dakar's is more of a 3" lift.

Matt

 

If your planning on all of this in the future, would probably be better getting a adjustable coilover that you could crank up when you get the armour. IF you go for something like OME, you have to pair the proper coil at the beginning. For instance, with the OME lift, you would need the 886 coils, but since your not getting the winch/bumper right away you would have to go with the 885. At the end of the day you would have to switch out to the 886 springs because your going to get some sagging with the 885. Now if you convince your wife you can get everything at once....That's my plan at least, getting everything at once not convincing the wife

Also with an adjustable coilover, you can preload the spring to give you/maintain the lift with the armour, and then switch out to a heavier spring rate down the road road.

 

Just buy the proper coil over the first time. Additionally you'll need aftermarket ucas to correct for the lift while maintaining proper alignment.

 

Problem is if he buys the proper coil without having the weight of the armour he risks running too much lift/harsh ride. With an adjustable coilover at least he can maintain the lift he desires without having to switch out coils a bunch of times. All considering, if he can wait and get everything at once, then yes just get the proper coil.

Edit: just looked that he is a double cab: he could run the 886 without any armour and be okay. Would just be stiff. Again all assuming he wants 3inch lift.

 

Looks like I need to move to the suspension threads. HAHA. Not really wanting 3". I was originally under the ASSumption that I wouldn't need UCA's if I kept below 2.5" of lift. I think I can get stiffer springs with the Ironman, also. And yes I was definitely going to go with the 886 if I went OME. I don't mind a stiffer ride in the mean time.

Thanks for the input. I will be in the suspension threads now. Lurking away. Creeping. Waiting for the right answer to jump out, then BAM!

 

I have had this size for about a month now and love them. They make more sense in my opinion. A lot more room to play with inside the wheel well when the tire is aired down versus a 285/75r16. I'm lifted 2.75" up front (or so) and only had to do minor trimming. I'm running my offroad rims (powder coated) and just required 1.25" spacers. The tall and skinny looks better in my opinion and my wheel bearings won't mind as much I'm sure in the long run.

 

The off-road wheels have... 4.5" backspace? You added 1.25" of spacer? That would mean your wheel face is out 2.25" more then stock. Am I understanding that correctly?

 

TRD OR wheels have 5'' (or 4'', whichever doesn't stick out as much) of backspacing, I think.

Matt