Long Travel BS Thread

Just curious why everyone wants the stock pump and sending unit. Just for smog?

 

Cause the stock pump is reliable and if you want a fuel gauge the stock one works too. Why make it more complicated? On my truck I've ran the kartek fuel pump, the E2000 pump and some super high dollar $300+ summit ultra wazoo pump. They all sucked and continuously gave me issues between vacuum locking and not being able to actually suck the gas out of the cell. I've had more then once where I had to run into a store, buy a bag of ice and lay it on top of my fuel pump to get my truck to fire up. Most EFI pressure pumps are meant to push, not to suck. Using them to actually suck the gas out of the tank doesn't work really well. Another good setup would be a small booster pump inside the cell but at that point why not run the stock. Or if you had a fuel cell with a bottom feed line that would work for these kind of pumps also.

Since I've swapped in a stock tacoma pump setup to my truck (i have a 3.4 swapped into mine) I have had a SINGLE fuel related problem. Not one!!!! Before the swap, I actually wouldn't even drive my truck on a summer day. I once spent 2 hours swapping fuel pumps during the summer in Blythe just trying to get out of the damn city when I had the kartek pump setup in mine. Again, ZERO issues ever in the race truck also with the stock setup other then a solder joint that was my fault.

My question would be, why do you not want to run the stock setup? Are you just looking to spend money for no reason since you already own the stock pump and sending unit and the truck is already prewired for it all...

I just looked thru a crap load of pictures and amazingly enough I don't have any of the setup on my truck or the TPF truck that I did the pump in.

 

x124892948573092385879467

 

BTW, for anyone wondering what the E2000 pump is...

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/e2000-fuel-pump

Compare that to the kartek pump... both in looks, function and price... Not gonna say either are good but if you're convinced you want the kartek pump you might want to look at this one too before you spend the money. Peel the rubber jacket off the kartek one and look at them really closely!!!


http://www.kartek.com/Product/1082/Pierburg-Fuel-Pump.aspx

 

So basically, you used all factory components apart from the actual fuel cell (bladder, foam, filler, etc).

 

on the second gens its all one contained unit, makes it really simple

edit: that didnt really makes sense, just hold out for a little bit and ill get you the prototype for powderpuff if its done in time

 

Yeah, I'm talking strictly the '96-04 tacoma stuff. I have no clue if the '05+ is the same to be honest cause I've never messed with one.

I used all the fuel cell stuff and then simply cut a hole to drop the whole pump/sending unit assembly in. I never use foam in my cells, never have, probably never will, have never had an issue without it. Heard many issues from those that do have it though.

This is the setup in the era of Tacoma I've been talking about.




If the new ones are different but still bolt in from the top, I'd have a hard time believing they couldn't simply be retrofitted to bolt in as well. On that one, for our 32 gallon cells, I simply cut the metal bracket that supports the pump and extended it with some angle iron welded in so that it sits about 1/4" off the bottom of the cell. I then went to napa and bought the real inside the tank type fuel injection fuel line. I'm not talking the stuff that's like $3 a foot, I'm talking the stuff that's like $25 a foot. It's been in there 3 years now and still looked brand new when I had it apart a while ago. I extended the electrical line using just standard solder, wire and heat shrink and have no gas related issues with that either. The solder joint issue was simple soldering gun operator error and nothing more... I didn't extend the float for the sending unit but that would've been easy as well. I did put a hose clamp around the fuel pump and the arm that it mounts to for piece of mind that it wouldn't pop loose and become all floppy...

 

Also, BTW... If someone is going to do this... 100% make sure to unbolt and pull the metal lid off the top of the metal fuel cell can to determine on the plastic bladder where you're going to place it. Reason being, the top of the bladder may not all be flat to allow for a gasket to seal. So make sure where you "want" to place it when you're doing your planning is really a viable location on the plastic bladder itself before you go and cut a hole in the top of the metal can just to find out you cut it right where there's a ridge or a rib on the plastic bladder that won't allow you to mount the pump assembly with a gasket to seal it.

 

Saving these pages specifically for future reference.

 

Interesting. Thanks for the info sirkh100!
I have a fuelsafe cell with their in-tank pump and an ISSPRO sending unit custom made for my stock gauge and I haven't had and issue.

 

Just to make sure I'm understanding everything your saying, you just cut a second hole for the fuel pump assembly in the top "lid" of the fuel cell and placed the pump in there?
Im assuming then that you plugged the fuel lines that come on the fuel cell from the manufacturer?
One last thing, sorry if its stupid, is all the smog related BS encompassed in the fuel pump unit?

 

Exactly what i did^^^ except i used a rubber gasket compound that you can lay on like glue. Just if u do the compound, make sure its gas resistant. I also added my stock return line as well. Used 100% of the stock tank equipment so i could fly through emmisions.

 

Good info fellas.

 

Anyone here have any experience with the "Giant Link Killer kit"? Im looking into shock options. Either 3.0x18 fox smothies or 2.5x18 tripple bypasses.

 

The giant "link killer" bypasses are 2 tube

 

Im shock retarded, what would you guys recommend i go with?

 

I'm no expert, but i think triple bypass will give you more adjustability than twin bypass.

 

2.5x16 tripple bypass

 

Are 3.0's overkill for these trucks? i guess the rear is only going to be as fast as the front lol.

 

The link killer kit is a very good setup, more tubes isn't always better