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Bought a supercharger, now what?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by DTFtacoma, Sep 18, 2013.

  1. Sep 18, 2013 at 11:45 AM
    #1
    DTFtacoma

    DTFtacoma [OP] Dezert Toy Fabrication Vendor

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    Hey guys let me give you some background. I'm a bit of a fabricator and I'm building Tony's 99 Access cab Tacoma. I'm haven't dealt with superchargers yet but seams like a simple enough concept. I would just like to know all the other accessories will we need? I'm not looking to run the 1/4 mile just more HP for ripping through whoop sections and sand dunes.

    This what I have picked up so far
    l5pb_f10dd00ca051af82d411511d437bc43d427fdaa0.jpg

    You can't see the new tensioner and belt but its in there. What kind of fuel mods will we need the current engine has 160K is it over the hill should we have it gone through?

    I got everything through this guy
    http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/parts-accessories/209444.htm#post3424988

    I can just call a shop get this info but I want it from my fellow non bias Tacoma owners that aren't trying to sell me stuff ;)
     
  2. Sep 18, 2013 at 4:34 PM
    #2
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    Guy to really talk to is Jason. He will know all the OEM parts that you should have.

    Fuel wise, I'd get the URD 7th injector kit and maybe throw on a 2.2 or 2.1" pulley for more boost :cool:
     
  3. Sep 18, 2013 at 6:15 PM
    #3
    SDSam

    SDSam from Dirt bike to Dezert Couch

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    If i could do it again I would run the supercharger with stock pulley and get a wideband 02 sensor and see how it does first, then either water/meth inj. or URD 7th kit.
     
  4. Sep 18, 2013 at 8:46 PM
    #4
    trdtoy

    trdtoy Well-Known Member

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    02 sr5 4x4 auto v6 turbo (sold)
    Turbo with supporting mods and tranny to hold power.
    Swap mech fan for e fan. Deckplate mod to airbox with high flow filter and afe mit for best results or make your own mit. 2 step colder plugs. Colder t-stat. Afr gauge. Ability to tune afr and timing. Check urd site. Tune out any knock with timing and high 11's afr with stock 2.37" pulley. Just the above should get you in the 230-240whp range and 6-7psi boost. Then if more power, headers, exhaust mods. O2 sim if cats gutted or deleted. Water/meth inj. Then to sc pulleys 2.2"(9-10psi), 2.1"(10-11psi), or smaller.....keep timing in check and afr in high 11's for safety..... Around 300 whp is the absolute most you can expect with all listed mods unless you start sprayin n2o..... fyi... I have 2.1" and 1.8" sc pulleys if ya want to buy one for what I got in them. Also have a lighter crank pulley..... all custom made stuff.....
     
  5. Sep 18, 2013 at 9:15 PM
    #5
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Would not do a high flow air filter. Lets in too much dust and eats the rotors. Jason just spent 2k rebuilding his sc due to that
     
  6. Sep 18, 2013 at 9:21 PM
    #6
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    That had a little more to do with the masive amount of sandy salt water he sucked in it.
     
  7. Sep 18, 2013 at 9:26 PM
    #7
    NW4RUNNER

    NW4RUNNER Well-Known Member

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    The S/C runs lean. Last thing you want is more Air IMO. URD 7th Inj is mandatory IMO. I have stock tuning on my 7th INJ as gadget said it will likely run better than messing with it. But I still run a bit lean even with 92 octane. Enjoy I love mine.
     
  8. Sep 18, 2013 at 9:44 PM
    #8
    trdtoy

    trdtoy Well-Known Member

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    More air means more potential power... Regardless of mods a timing and afr tune are a must...octane has nothing to do with afr...more to do with timing... what is your definition of lean? They run strong with afrs in the low-mid 12's but to be safe and help keep knock at bay mid to high 11's is what I like... oh also be sure to hook fpr to back of sc for free 1:1 fuel psi to boost psi rise to help on the fueling end...
     
  9. Sep 18, 2013 at 10:17 PM
    #9
    NW4RUNNER

    NW4RUNNER Well-Known Member

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    Yea more air and more potential combustion. But the stock fuel pump and ECM certainly can't keep up with the fuel delivery with the 3.4 set up. The ping is horrible. I dealt with it for several thousand miles before getting the 7th inj. As far as Tuning, like I said I keep my 7th injector at stock setup because I don't want to F anything up. Most people with the 3.4 S/C are running stock air boxes.
     
  10. Sep 18, 2013 at 10:58 PM
    #10
    trdtoy

    trdtoy Well-Known Member

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    Ya upgraded fuel pump or something like kenne bell Boost-A-Pump is a must..I ran mine both ways...tune is best left alone if not comfortable with tuning and gadget has tune for your setup. It is however a good idea to be able to monitor state of tune via gauges at all times just to be sure everything is working correctly... If comfortable tuning you can get more out of your setup. Most run stock box due to maf in box and ease of tuning vs maf in a different intake setup. At one time I had a 3" pipe with the maf in it hoping I would gain decent power but only had maybe 5hp gain and tuning the maf in the 3" tube was much more difficult than tuning maf in oem airbox.....
     
  11. Sep 18, 2013 at 11:14 PM
    #11
    SDSam

    SDSam from Dirt bike to Dezert Couch

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    For a desert truck i would suggest an UMP type filter. Is what i use and has been keeping the dirt out, regardless of the minute gain or loss.
     
  12. Sep 19, 2013 at 12:15 AM
    #12
    hawaiifiveo

    hawaiifiveo Well-Known Member

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    can you tell me why you run the plugs two steps colder?
     
  13. Sep 19, 2013 at 8:46 AM
    #13
    DTFtacoma

    DTFtacoma [OP] Dezert Toy Fabrication Vendor

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    Ahhh yes Mr.Berry is in the know I forgot its not just 4wd long traveled its SC'd

    water/meth?

    Thanks for the list dude but I'm really looking for minimal mods just want it to work and be reliable

    Ouch :eek:

    Good info I'll look into the 7th injector

    Yes I was considering order a UMP for my truck too
     
  14. Sep 19, 2013 at 8:46 AM
    #14
    DTFtacoma

    DTFtacoma [OP] Dezert Toy Fabrication Vendor

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  15. Sep 19, 2013 at 8:49 AM
    #15
    LAoffroadin

    LAoffroadin BURY ME WITH MY TACO!!

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    now install it and the world is yours>>> start by racing every vehicle known to man, get sponsors, get rich, buy lots of things including countries, build an army, and take over the world..... whats your plan of attack?
     
  16. Sep 19, 2013 at 9:39 AM
    #16
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    No I didn't. It was $900 and change...and wasn't because of a high flow. I had stock intake at the time.

    Yep. Scored the rotor with sand.

    This. Don't fuck around, do it right. The URD is the only kit I would recommend and do it the time you install the SC, especially if it's an automatic.

    The factory 1st gen ecu only allows for 7 degrees of timing retard. Which unfortunate isn't enough in high gear, low RPM. In that situation when you go close to WOT without downshifting, low RPM leanout. The only way to correct it is with the URD kit which lets you retard the timing further and add fuel as needed to achieve your desired AFRs.

    Because if you don't you'll melt the plugs to cylinders. General rule of thumb is 1 step cooler plug for every 50-75 hp you add over stock. If OP just wants to run the SC without the piggyback and 7th, run one step cooler plug and manually downshift in those high gear low RPM ranges and generally can avoid detonation. Add the piggyback and 7th, run 2 steps cooler over stock.

    Don't bother with just the tuner. Get the URD kit and you can run the 2.2 pulley without doing any other mods. 2.1 and you'll need to run high octane or methanol/water injection....or permanently live above 6000 feet :spy:
     
  17. Sep 19, 2013 at 9:59 AM
    #17
    DTFtacoma

    DTFtacoma [OP] Dezert Toy Fabrication Vendor

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    So just 7th injector and call it a day. I think I'm at around 120 feet :D

    Going to pick up a UMP too
     
  18. Sep 19, 2013 at 10:04 AM
    #18
    SDSam

    SDSam from Dirt bike to Dezert Couch

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    Ad a tranny cooler and service to that.
     
  19. Sep 19, 2013 at 10:06 AM
    #19
    STiLL WILL

    STiLL WILL MY NAME ISN'T WILL

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    Yes, I sold my '13 Taco. :'(
    7th injector is CRUCIAL on 1st gen SC's. Listen to Jerry, he's got it down.

    ALSO don't forget the AFR gauge(even more important that boost gauge honestly). AEM UEGO or Innovate MTX-L(the one I have). I know you have experience welding bungholes lol. :D:anonymous:
     
  20. Sep 19, 2013 at 10:26 AM
    #20
    Southern01Taco

    Southern01Taco Well-Known Member

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    If you do the 7th injector at the same time as the blower then don't do this. It made mine run really fat and it took me a while before I figured out what was going on.

    I also had to play with the fuel part of the tuning on my 7th injector after I reversed the FPR mod. I have my AFR in the high 11's to low 12's at wot.

    When I put mine on I bought the stuff I needed from trdparts4u.com.
    I went ahead and changed the oil in the nose cone. You have to change the metal throttle body gasket to the paper gasket, so I did that. And I also got the install kit, which comes with some fittings, new throttle cable brackets, new vacuum line, a new long center bolt for the middle of the blower, and the one way check valve.

    I attached the most up to date s/c instructions that I have. I read through it first and it helped me find out what parts I needed. I also attached the template for cutting the timing cover.

    I think that covers everything lol.
     

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