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Anything welding

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by EL TACOROJO, Sep 17, 2010.

  1. Sep 19, 2013 at 7:04 PM
    #1941
    01Tac0ma

    01Tac0ma Bash Fabriction & Off-Road

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    Chad
    West Columbia, SC
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    Look at build!
    Yea I just went to Praxair and leased a bottle from them.

    Price is hard to beat but you deffinatly get what you pay for, the Mig 135 isn't $500 though, iirc its about $300
     
  2. Sep 19, 2013 at 10:08 PM
    #1942
    ian408

    ian408 Well-Known Member

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    You don't need gas. You can go the Fluxcore route. Generally it's reverse polarity and good to go. Gas is good to have for sure.
     
  3. Sep 19, 2013 at 10:12 PM
    #1943
    95 taco

    95 taco Battle Born

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    X100000
    I got to use a Gas wire feed at my uncles body shop, 1,000 times better than the flux core machine we have.
     
  4. Sep 19, 2013 at 10:40 PM
    #1944
    ian408

    ian408 Well-Known Member

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    Having gas definitely makes for a better looking weld. But, if you're going to be welding outside in a breezy condition, then Fluxcore it is-your shielding gas will be cast to the wind otherwise.
     
  5. Sep 19, 2013 at 11:12 PM
    #1945
    01Tac0ma

    01Tac0ma Bash Fabriction & Off-Road

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    Look at build!
    That's when I break out the stick welder! Rather burn rods than mig wire anyday
     
  6. Sep 20, 2013 at 6:26 AM
    #1946
    ian408

    ian408 Well-Known Member

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    Not everyone will have that choice.;)
     
  7. Sep 20, 2013 at 6:36 AM
    #1947
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    Benicia, CA
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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    This ^ when I weld cast the parts are preheated to around 400 degrees In my powder coat curing oven welded and stuck right back in the 400 degree oven for about 10 to 15 min then we turn it off and crack the door to let it cool SLOW! I haven't had any issues with this method and i weld a lot of cast pipe fittings and other things for the oil guys next door.
     
  8. Sep 20, 2013 at 7:41 AM
    #1948
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    My preheat/postheat setup :D

    2012-11-13192827_c10a214d5f7ba8dccd525278334ba65a53d84523.jpg
     
  9. Sep 20, 2013 at 7:35 PM
    #1949
    Kirk1589

    Kirk1589 Well-Known Member

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    Heated till hot. Welded hot. And used the oven method used above.
    azypebeq_5f53ccf634c7acd4e53746f662b9b6c746dede70.jpg
    2etevehe_97ff7fdb69b9466cff81455c6dedb41798e62a8c.jpg
     
  10. Sep 20, 2013 at 7:45 PM
    #1950
    Dusty taco

    Dusty taco Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Saw this thread, anything welding. I wanted in. Just a structural stitch weld on a unistrut support.
     
  11. Sep 20, 2013 at 10:10 PM
    #1951
    YOTA LOVER

    YOTA LOVER Stay Calm, and Fire For Effect

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    Screw pretty, if it holds it holds! I mighta sprung for a scrap yard replacement considering 1. It already grenaded on you, and 2. If I read correctly in the other thread you're putting more than the designed HP and TQ through it.
     
  12. Sep 20, 2013 at 10:48 PM
    #1952
    Kirk1589

    Kirk1589 Well-Known Member

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    Couldn't find one. But yea it's slightly torquey.
     
  13. Sep 24, 2013 at 6:37 PM
    #1953
    TruckyTruck

    TruckyTruck Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Sep 24, 2013
  14. Sep 24, 2013 at 6:40 PM
    #1954
    ian408

    ian408 Well-Known Member

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    Nice Trucky!
     
  15. Sep 24, 2013 at 9:37 PM
    #1955
    TruckyTruck

    TruckyTruck Well-Known Member

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    Thanks man, I'm pretty excited about it. After seeing all the great work Eric has and can do with his, I felt like I couldn't go wrong with a thermal arc
     
  16. Sep 24, 2013 at 9:47 PM
    #1956
    ETaco23

    ETaco23 Marshall offroad Fabrication

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    I got me a little longevity 140 and love it! Its a 115-120 unit and can easily weld 1/4" with flux core.
    I think alot of people including myself would like to weld the thicker stuff with gas and not have to switch over to flux wire all the time.. Thats the main reason why its good to go with a 220 unit. And ofcourse so you can weld thicker then 1/4"...:)
     
  17. Sep 25, 2013 at 7:46 PM
    #1957
    Socalduckslayer

    Socalduckslayer Pelfreybilt Off-Road

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    Odds and Ends
    I think best bet is to avoid anything on your trip that you may need sliders for. Wait and do it right. Thrown together bolt on sliders are probably not the best idea, especially if you're drilling a bunch of new holes in the frame. That could easily turn into a weekend project.
     
  18. Sep 25, 2013 at 7:49 PM
    #1958
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    In a corn field, OH
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    245k+ miles, rust, working AC, bald eagles
    I built mine in 2 days.

    No need for 1/4" unless your truck is a competition buggy. Mine are .120" wall and I've hit mine pretty hard and used a hi-lift on mine a bunch of times without issue.

    IMG_2603FW_f1c738b7943f5f8d4f56be8de64cb7bb3ff734e5.jpg

    IMG_0152_307c6d3f9b58ef4268e5677e043a6d001a281e49.jpg
     
  19. Sep 25, 2013 at 7:51 PM
    #1959
    Socalduckslayer

    Socalduckslayer Pelfreybilt Off-Road

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    Wouldn't be a biggie on the rocks. You're not dragging horizontally over the corners or anything and if you're hitting the front and back corners you're probably doin it wrong. Square tube is stronger too. It's really about look preference
     
  20. Sep 26, 2013 at 6:17 AM
    #1960
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Be careful with this statement.

    Square tube is not stronger in all cases. It is stronger in bending when flat top and bottom, due to the increased material located away from the neutral axis.

    When placed in bending with corners top and bottom it is not stronger.

    Also the dent or crush resistance of square tube is much lower than round tubing as well.

    But yeah, mainly a matter of preference.
     

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