Long Travel BS Thread

This is more info then I've really heard first hand from anyone else. To me, it doesn't make sense after reading this to do the 4.0 swap. Purely opinion but if a s/c 3.4 is comparable, the lack of massive headache just seems like a no brainer. From your experience, if you were starting fresh on a truck and motor selection was up to you but only between these two, what would you do knowing what you know now?


BTW, My truck is a 3.4L manual with 33's and 5.04 gears. The TPF truck is a 3.4L Auto, 35's and 6.0 gears. I feel like my truck would pull the TPF truck up a wash. Weight wise, the TPF truck is probably a bit heavier but not by too much I would imagine.

 

This is major pain, I have been down this path trying to get an FJ version of 1GR-FE in a Tacoma, the harnesses are not the same and having to pin out and verify all working bit checks are getting feedback blows. Currently attempting to get around the immobilizer with software.

 

I love my 3.4 with the supercharger and 6.0 gears

 

pull a 1-UZ from an old SC400. Solid V8s

 

If I'm swapping V8, I'm just biting the bullet and going with a bowtie of some sort.

 

some race classes only allow same block manufacturer as the cab/chassis. Then again, if you are talking about supercharging I guess we dont really care about race legal anymore.

 

The main reason we swapped was that we wanted to run BITD and SCORE at some point and they dont allow forced induction. Now we dont have the time or money to race anyways lol. We also had a bad injector and it blew up the 3.4. Bad injector isnt too bad with a N/A engine, but with boost it will literally melt the pistons in minutes which results in REALLY scarred up cylinders.

If you dont have to worry about having a n/a engine, then keep the 3.4 and look for a sc. I liked the manual trans.

yep good luck lol. Do you at least have a wiring diagram between the two? Or just chasing wires from point to point and redoing the pins?

 

Yeah, I wasn't taking race rules into consideration. Strictly just play truck conversation.

 

nope have the schematics of both, and a working platform, the software work around is about 70% done.

 

Tundra 5.7 or a twin turbo land cruiser v8 would be good options within the brand. Or an lfa motor aka sprint cup crate motor

 

the only guy i know with a 1uz has regretted it and wish he went LS engine. Its not really that powerful and he spent quite a bit of money getting a wiring setup and a custom adapter plate to run the r150 manual trans. I think the trans that came behind the 1uz werent going to handle offroad.

But you have a point on the engine/body for some racing organizations

 

anyone got any suggestions on welders for my truck?
trying to avoid ones that use gas

 

Why avoid gas?

 

This. Unless you wanna use some shitty flux core.

 

better penetration is possible but its so damn messy

 

cause im not gonna b welding often just on upgrades (frame reinforcements, bumpers, etc) and gas welders seem like they cost a shit ton

 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_366784-1703...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

like this?

 

Go take a cheap non-gas welder for a test drive before you decide to commit to purchasing.

 

Id still suggest a welder with a gas inlet but I found this one in five minutes.


http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/tls/4088732353.html

Hobart/miller > Lincoln

 

As a home hobbiest, I own a lincoln 100 with fluxcore. I typically use that for outside the garage in windy conditions if I'm forced to do work in the driveway, yard, etc... I've used it to fix a gate at my house for instance... The benefits of this machine is it's a 110V unit so I can use an extension cord to get some distance out of where I can use it. It's also great for in the pits cause it runs off most generators and again, being fluxcore I don't have to stress about the wind. It's a great go to welder for times when things aren't optimal for welding... You do have to prep your material better by beveling the edges to help for penetration and I also weld slower to try and let it burn in better.

I also own a Lincoln 175 which is what my entire truck was built off, the TPF truck was built off, countless bumpers and other minor projects and now that I think about it, I've done a full cage in a ranger with it also. It's my primary go to welder for my house. It's the smalled 220V unit Lincoln makes and is the one that's sold at like Home Depot. I run gas with it and will take it 99 times out of a 100 over my other box. But, I'm limited on where I can used it cause I've only got a 20' extension cord, it's 220V and being gas, any wind really messes with you.

Miller makes a comparible unit to both of those Lincolns I mentioned. They're every bit as good if not better. I'd love to step up to a bigger welder and have almost done it a few times but honestly, not being a welder by trade and a home hobbiest, this little lincoln 175 or whatever the comparible Miller would be is all I really ever will need.

I've heard decent things about the Hobart boxes as well... No first hand experience with them.

Personally having both the 100 and the 175, if you're going to be doing most of your work in a garage where wind isn't a factor and you have 220V access, just man up and get a 220V welder. You'll be a million times more happy. I actually bought mine as a refurbished unit for like $500 about 8 years ago with the gauges. I had to buy the bottle on top of that. It's been 100% problem free with the only issues being just general consumable wear and tear type stuff.

I definitely recommend the gas over the fluxcore but I won't talk trash on fluxcore cause it really does have it's uses!


BTW, my lincoln 175 will run fluxcore or gas/mig... It's a matter of changing the liner I believe, the polarity on a couple wires and changing out the wire. You can go back and forth with it but having both boxes, I've never bothered... I have my 100 setup as fluxcore all the time and my 175 as mig all the time.