humor my stupidity

so i have a 2011 with a v6 and ive read alot about the inherent ticking and it hasnt ever bothered me. I have some experience in the diesel world so knocking, clunks and pings are normal.

my truck has been dealer maintained since new until today. truck now has 40k on it and orielley had a deal on castral synth so i bought it and filled er up along with a Bosch filter. well the inherent ticking is way way more audible. even at highway speeds. now this cant be normal. it seems whenever im in a high gear at low rpm and give er some pedal (not enough to make it shift) it gets very loud. even my wife noticed. my truck has had an easy life so the reason why it has become so much louder is my question. any help is much appreciated
also i have read several posts and it seems that my problem is opposite what happens to others when they switch from dino to synth

thanks gents

 

Hm, I would almost say you're hearing the cam lobes slap against the valves. But if there's enough oil that shouldn't be the problem. And I think the original ticking is the injectors. And I'm guessing you got the right weight of oil?

 

And not drain the tranny oil instead? Maybe throw a Lucas in there and see if it quiets down.

 

Hopefully they didn't use a higher viscosity oil to try to cover up a valve tap.

Welcome. Hope you get to the bottom of this.

 

I used 6 quarts of 5w30 full synth. It sounds like valve noise to me like they need to be adjusted ( I'm assuming they are hydraulic) ya I'll try switching if it doesn't improve. The only reason I didn't suspect hard mechanical if because it only does it at curtain rpms (1500-2500) under load. I can rev it in neutral and it doesn't happen right off idle or even above 2500rpm. But I'm freaked out now. I'll have to get out the stethoscope and poke around. Thanks for the advice gentleman ill post my findings

 

There seems to be a ton of misinformation about the Tacoma 1GR-FE valvetrain on many forums where people should know better. The valve lifters are solid mechanical units which require lash adjustment, not hydraulic. They are one-piece units, with no adjustment shim. The lifters are available in various lengths, and are replaced as a unit to adjust clearance. The lifters themselves are not expensive (~$20) but accessing them is time-consuming and expensive.

I would try to eliminate all other potential noise sources before digging into the engine. You will always hear injector noise at low RPM, but probably not from the driver's seat. Low-RPM ticking often comes from the exhaust, to include the air pump if your engine has one. Between your stethoscope and the dealer service department, you should be able to pinpoint the cause and get it fixed.

At 40k miles, you are will within the 60k powertrain warranty. Since the worst-case scenario probably includes expensive repair under warranty, I wouldn't waste time substituting brands of 5W-30 oil. Using thicker oil, or oil additives, are out of the question. Even if some ill-advised oil trickery makes the noise disappear, it is only masking the problem instead of repairing it. It would be foolish to merely hide a powertrain problem until the warranty expires, then pay the full cost out-of-pocket.

Mike

 

I wasn't aware these had solid lifters. But I've never had a valve cover off one either. However I doubt he's hearing valve tick. Probably an exhaust leak. My last 05 had a bit of a tick and with my stethoscope I could tell it was coming from the passenger side manifold collector. Wasn't bad enough for me to bother changing it though and I sold the truck shortly afterwards. It is odd that it got worse right after an oil change but if the OP put 6 quarts in he did overfill it.

 

Viscosity isn't the issue here, it's flow rate. They are very similar, but two different things.

Synth oil is much more "slippery" than dino oil, so things like oil leaks and noises are FAR more noticeable when switching to synth after being on dino oil. The lower flow rate of dino oil masks noises and leaks...when switching to synth all of those ghosts come out.

 

Being a Mobil 1 user since the early 1980s, I can report the same experience with noise (never had a leak problem) but this should only be true at cold start. The noise should gradually decrease during warmup, and at normal operating temps there should be nearly zero mechanical noise difference between a synthetic and any other 30W oil. I have grown accustomed to the clackety noise of cold solid-lifter valvetrains over the years, and rely on it to know that I actually received synthetic oil when I asked for it.

Mike

 

So the stethoscope produced no results as I figured it would on account of the noise is only under load. So I again consulted the owners manual and my oil choice is appropriate for the conditions in which my truck is used and as for the amount I am 1/2 at over, on the dipstick it's maybe 1/4 inch above the full mark. If that's going to result in airration and sloshing please let me know. With the scope I first identified injector noise so I don't misdiagnose and move on from there and the only noise I felt was close was when I touched the valve cover. So maybe it is normal. I'll keep an eye on it in an attempt to more accurately identify the conditions in which it happens. Any other advice is welcome and thanks thus far. This is a great community that I'm grateful to be Apart of. Thanks again

 

heres a little vid i took. you can hear a lite metalic tapping noise. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMnlu9lQf0Q&feature=youtu.be

 

1/4" over the full mark won't hurt anything. When you go to the dealer, try to get the tech or even the service manager to ride with you. Demonstrate the problem, then let them do their jobs.

Mike

 

Have you considered the EVAP purge valve? Not sure where it's located on the 1GR, but I know I can hear it tapping away on my 2TR sometimes.