LED Light Bars

IF IT WERE ME....I would make my own without a relay. I'll get shit for saying that and I'm not recommending it by any means. But there is no reason for a relay on an LED bar as long as your wiring and switch are worth a damn. It just makes it simpler to wire/install for me is all.

That being said, I think with a new harness you can make it work as long as it's wired properly. The relay is the confusing part for most, myself included. I'm hoping someone else chimes in that is familiar with the relay part of the harness.

 

Relays are there to keep from having large amounts of power running through the switch. Generally just need a "reference" voltage to control the relay.

 

Yep. But if the switch is rated correctly for the amperage going through it, and rated as continuous duty, the relay is overkill. LED bars draw such low current it usually isn't necessary. That's all I'm getting at. The manufacturer supplied it so they think obviously think otherwise.

 

Some good reading. I think you can get away without using a relay, but all the smart guys in this thread say you should (including me). What size inline fuse do you have?
If it worked fine with the original switch..try it that way and leave it on for 10 minutes in your driveway with a fire extinguisher..check the wires.
Then try a quality switch like a daystar..and monitor again for 10-15 minutes. I think you have may have used a switch rated at less than 20amps.
Maybe ask for some help from your local Tacoma club. Good Luck


http://www.rzrforums.net/lighting-stereo-electrical/72162-you-using-12v-30a-relay-w-light-bars.html

 

Out of curiosity did you happen to wire the new switch directly to the battery like in the directions?

 

Yes that's the way the harness is set up and how it was working with the supplied switch... Bad idea?


Thanks for all the help guys!

 

Well if the new switch wasn't rated, or you hooked it up wrong (some plugs on the switches are different switch to switch) and the power to the switch wasn't fused, then that could have been the cause of the issue. My suggestion would be to wire it using the new sent kit, but wire it with an inline fuse.

I think if you would have had a fuse on the switch power, the fuse would have blown instead of melting everything.

Just an FYI-->Essential, any power lead should always be fused. People say to use relays, because it is rated for a high enough amperage that all the load doesn't have to run through the switch and instead the high rated relay. I know a relay isn't essentially needed since your drawing low amps with a light bar, but in the case of a short you wont have a melted switch. But if you decide not to use a relay, just make sure everything that is "hot" is fused. Goodluck

 

So to clarify I need to wire an inline fuse (or relay) from the red(+) wire going from the switch to the battery, so if it happens again the fuse will blow before it starts to melt the rest of the harness.

Sorry to beat a dead horse, electronics go right over my head I am a body work type of guy, I need things spelled out Haha

How big of a fuse do I need ? The switch is 20amp

 

A relay does not replace a fuse. I think you knew that, just wanted to clarify. You can calculate amp draw by dividing watts by voltage. 120w/12v = 10 amps draw. I would probably use a 15amp fuse to account for any surge. If you're starting your truck and the lights on and say the battery dips to 10v while cranking, you'll be drawing 12 amps. So I'd go 15 amp to be safe. And then make sure your wire size is big enough.

Here's a good chart I follow when choosing wire size.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...1&storeId=11151&page=Marine-Wire#.Uko5nIi9KSM

It's meant for the marine world but it still applies. By that chart(use the 3% voltage drop chart) I'd choose 12gauge wire if your power wire is 16 feet ROUND TRIP. That's what most people make a mistake on. Measure from battery to load and double it for that measurement. And according to the chart, 12ga wire can handle 45 amps so it's plenty big. It can handle well up to the 10-15 amp load that the light will require, but the fuse will blow before the wire melts if anything more than 15amps runs through it.

And always remember to fuse the positive wire as close to the battery as possible.

I hope I didn't make that confusing. I typed it from my iPad so I got kind of away.

 

12ga may seem too big, and it probably is overkill...but what you look for is voltage drop. The chart I posted has the calculation there. It's easy if you know the resistance of the wire you're using, which that page also has for AWG wire. So if you chose say, 18ga wiring, you would be losing over 1volt for a 16 foot round trip run. When you lose one volt, your amp draw goes from 10 up to 11 amps. Doesn't seem like a big deal but if you chose a 10amp fuse it would be blowing all the time. AND you would be feeding the light less voltage which would make it less bright (not very noticeable with LEDs but the problem is still there)

 

And if I'm confusing you I'm sorry. I went off on a tangent there, and that is how I choose wiring when no relay is involved. I don't have much experience using relays so all of what I posted may be irrelevant for you...but thought I'd post it anyway.

 

You know a lot! Thank you, I know exactly what to do now.

 

If you have any more questions feel free to pm me and I'll see if I can help

 

I put an amp meter on the 50" bar on the race truck, it was pulling 16.2 amps, it's rated at 288 watts from tough light. On the race truck I run really high quality triple sealed 30 amp rated switches. These things are like $18 a pop. Yet I still ran a relay. Biggest reason is I like being able to run all small ga. wire thru my center console. Just a personal preference and nothing more. I ran 12ga wire to supply power to the light thru the relay.

 

id like to see a comparison of output between a rigid and a totron bar of similar specs

Anyone have?

 

IMO, I don't think there's a lot of people that own both of similar specs. I've seen both in person and there isn't a big difference. (Not at the same time though) It's just one is double/triple the price of the other.

 

If there was a noticeable difference, Rigid would have pics on their website.

 

on mine beam pattern is 90 degree flood and 60 spot, rigid claims 20 flood and 10 spot

 

My Totron is 8 degree Spot, & it is far from what i call a traditional off road spot light

 

I was wrong, mine is 60/30*

Power Consumption: 240 Watts
Operating Voltage: 10~30V DC
Efficiency: 24000 Lumen
Beam Pattern: Flood (60 degree) /Spot (30 degree)
Color Temperature: 6000K (Natural White)