4H Pull

This is exactly what I expected. Sounds like the ADD is on the passenger side and if it isn't connecting it's putting power (maybe) to the driver side, pushing the truck to the right. Just a theory although konvict KROG makes sense also.

 

Is the front diff in A-Trac equipped Tacomas just a normal open diff?

 

As far as i understand, all factory tacoma front diffs are just normal open diffs.

The A-trac May, if he has it, have a magical way of doing this.. Its pretty gizmo stuff using brakes and all, ive tried it offroad and its pretty impressive for being just some electronic voodoo type stuff and not a mechanical locker etc

 

I had totally the same thought when I clicked on the thread. I was like "Why is this in the 2nd Gen Tacoma section? Is he towing cattle to 4H?"

 

Ha! Wasn't the intent, but that doesn't sound too bad!

 

If something were broken in the front diff or between that and the wheel itself, no power would get to either front wheel and there could be no pull left or right. If this happened the rear tires would spin on gravel but the front would do nothing, the computer would sense something's wrong and it would throw a CEL, along with the VSC/Trac light and the slip light. That's if the electronics didn't step in and start lighting up as soon as you tried to engage 4wd.

I had a shop install a 3" lift kit in a nissan and they popped one of the cvs out during the install and didn't notice. The axle still appeared to be in place but it was unclipped. The splines let go in a few days and that dashboard lit up like a christmas tree and 4wd would not engage anymore. The front diff was spinning backwards on the damaged side, just like what happens if you lift the truck off the ground and put it in drive, and zero power was getting to either front wheel. The front diff and the cv had to be replaced.

Regardless of the electronics and the ADD, it's just a regular old open diff up front, if anything breaks no power gets to either wheel.

I'd be getting a second alignment done, and consider getting a different upper control arm so that the caster can be set up properly. That could be your whole problem right there. Otherwise, I know it's a new truck but I'd normally be looking at all the wearable parts in the front end that can move and magnify torque steer. Maybe something got overlooked or wasn't torqued during the lift install or during alignment. Also defective parts are out there.

 

Just to throw this out there. A lot of guys are cautioning that when doing lifts you need to be extra carefull not to damage the data wire that travels through the front end. Is it possible this data wire was damaged and is affecting the electronic signals?

 

Not familiar with a data wire, but I've gotten no other indications.

 

stupid computers.. when will they learn

I was wondering this with the A-trac question earlier. Mechanicaly i know the ins and outs of this but only know the basic description i guess of the electro-wizardry

which wire is it in question?

 

I think he's referring to the wheel speed sensor wires. One coming off each wheel. If a wheel sensor wire gets severed or otherwise, the abs light will light up and you won't have abs. Also The VSC/Trac light and slip light will light up and those systems will not work either. In my Nissan, 4wd would no longer engage either! Not sure if that part is the same in Yotas, I've never had to mess with it like I did with the Nissan.

 

The 10th picture down in this first post he shows the wire and talks briefly about it.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...talls-full-ome-kit-rear-brake-lines-pics.html

 

right, ok i broke one of those on my 2008, only issue was no ABS, but i actually liked it better that way..

My 2008 didnt have any other traction control so no idea what it would do other than that.

I thought he may be reffering to the wiring loom that plugs into the ADD and i was trying to figure out how someone would damage that..

 

So, I just picked her up from the 'ship. They inspected everything from the t-case up, and found nothing wrong. Matter of fact, I test drove the service managers '06 Taco (with a 3" lift), and it does the same thing...along with another employee's Taco (with a 6" lift). Now, I have the option of taking it to d'ship #2 for a 2nd opinion, but I'm kinda hesitant.

Once I got home, I jacked it up, put it in 4WD, spun the front tires. When I spun one, the other went the opposite direction. Is this a feasible way to check CV joints, besides a visual?

On a lighter note, my 5-year-old son baited his own hook, cast his own line, and caught a beautiful lake trout! I attempted a video with my phone, but when I hit the 'start' button, I really didn't hit the 'start' button. Afterwards, I pushed the button to 'stop' the video, only to discover that was the first time I pushed it, so it actually started recording. In the end, I got a 10-miunte video of the phone in my pants pocket...drat!

 

The way you mentioned, and or jack one tire up at a time while its in 4wd, you shouldn't be able to turn either tire if the opposite is on the ground. Obviously if it spins=no good
if both wheels turned the same way=you either have a mystery locker, or broken part jamming things up (for future ref)
if you hear popping/grinding/binding=crappy cv, or wheel bearing

Its sounding like and alignment/torque steer issue. Mainly because the 2 other trucks mimmicked the behavior.

Congrats on the fishing experience I remember fishing with my dad and gramps when i was little. And i dont have any luck with cell phone video's either. Seems like i am in the video camera trying to take a picture. or visa versa

 

Just had another thought:

A buddy of mine had a 69 Chevelle back in high school. He could apply the brakes moderately hard and have the car pull to the left hard enough that he was able to make a left hand turn this way without touching the wheel. That problem wound up being the front end alignment. When the front end dipped, the camber on the front wheels changed enough to cause the pull.

Since many lift kits leave the front wheels leaning out a bit, wondering if this could be your problem. Accelerate a bit, front end comes up, alignment changes enough to cause a pull.

Is your alignment perhaps just barely in the "acceptable" range now with the lift kit? I believe that some people change the control arms to allow more adjustment, but I haven't paid too much attention to the specifics, I'm not planning to lift mine.

 

So, I'm lost about the ADD. According to the article, the system..."connects the drivers side axle shaft to the differential." If that fails/does not happen, you would NOT already have "drive" in the other wheel on the shorter axle? Why not?

I understand this is an older article and vehicle specifics will be different, but would assume the concept is the same.

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/the-automatic-disconnecting-differential-system-19259.html

 

So, with my situation...there's NO chance I've got an ADD issue (so to speak) if I'm getting "drive" with a pull. Correct?

Sorry for the ignorance...this is just all new to me, and I don't want to rack my brain over a non-issue.

 

Post your alignment numbers (post lift), and what UCAs are you running with your lift?

Also, in 2wd mine pulls right from the crown in the road, but my camber and toe are at 0 so I kinda expect that with a lot of road crown it pulls. I have no experience with 4wd on pavement, and go too slow off road in 4wd to notice anything, so I cant help there.

 

I know my truck's not a Surf, but if the attached pic is a fairly accurate representation, I get it. If I have my 4WD light, that means the ADD has actuated.

Source: http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/add.htm