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New brakes

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by tomwilson74, Sep 9, 2013.

  1. Sep 11, 2013 at 5:39 AM
    #21
    DueNorth

    DueNorth Well-Known Member

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    Mike
    Southern Ontario, Canada
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    2014 BSP TRD Sport DCSB 6sp
    almost rolled 100k kms on my truck now... Only a couple millimeters of pad life left so i'll be changing them out soon.
     
  2. Sep 11, 2013 at 6:31 AM
    #22
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    Lancaster, PA
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    Changed mine for the first time last year with 55K miles. They still had 3/16th material left - and just wanted to get it done and out of the way. They were doing a lot of 'clunking' also. The clunking went away after I changed them.
     
  3. Sep 11, 2013 at 11:35 AM
    #23
    Partzguy

    Partzguy Well-Known Member

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    Don
    North Texas
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    My experience with dealers has been that when my pads were down to 50% they told me that "they will need to be replaced soon". The best way to know for sure is to pull the wheels off and look for yourself!
     
  4. Sep 11, 2013 at 1:30 PM
    #24
    ncsilver06

    ncsilver06 Member

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    Lighted paint-matched running boards, ARE hard tonneau cover, dual chrome exhaust, CIPA 36400 Auto Dimming Rearview Mirror, EGR in-channel rain guards, 4x4 illuminated light switch (rcbs204)
    Agree with what partzguy said. Did the dealer give you a printout showing the actual thickness of the pads? Standard thickness on Taco front pads is 11.5 mm and minimum thickness is 1 mm. Unless you're getting close to the minimum thickness, I wouldn't worry about it.

    I once had a service advisor try to scare me by telling me that I *only* had 6 mm left on my front pads. He left out the part about them only being half worn out.
     
  5. Sep 11, 2013 at 1:37 PM
    #25
    2006TRDSPORT

    2006TRDSPORT 2006TRDSPORT

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    Felton, Delaware
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    Unless you are very hard on your brakes regularly, there is no way they need to be changed so soon! I think they are trying to get money out of you.
     
  6. Sep 11, 2013 at 3:57 PM
    #26
    Mach375

    Mach375 Habitual Violator of Wheeling Rule #2

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    Sathington "Alowicious Devadander Abercrombie" Willoughby (but you can call me Mud)
    Location: Satan's Stinky Butthole (SoCal)
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    '11 DCLB 4x4 TRD Sport
    Too much to list, but enough to get me in trouble. Repeatedly.
    By now you should be getting the idea:
    1) 38K is low for "needing" pads
    2) YMMV according to braking style, use, towing, etc. etc. etc. etc.
    3) Have them print you out an exact measurement of your pad thicknesses, and a printout of the factory-recommended replacement thickness. Then ask them to explain to you, in very specific terms, why they think you need brakes.
    4) Pull your front wheels off and have a look-see for yourself. It should be obvious.


    I replaced mine at 20K, but they weren't even half worn out...LOTS of meat left on them. I did it because I was constantly pushing them past their limit (I run really, really heavy, especially on my numerous expedition-style trips......but I don't ride them or brake hard). I replaced them with Porterfield A4S (I think that's the compound), and let me tell you it's as if I put on extra-large 8-piston calipers and enormous discs, the stopping power was so dramatic! The factory compound is utter garbage.
     
  7. Sep 11, 2013 at 4:10 PM
    #27
    DriverSound

    DriverSound Señor Member

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    I think Porterfield makes Hawk pads. R4S is usually used for street cars.
     
  8. Sep 11, 2013 at 4:44 PM
    #28
    tomwilson74

    tomwilson74 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    West Virginia
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    OME 3” lift Mickey Thompson Classic III Wheels
    Been out of town, just got back this afternoon. I checked the tech sheet, it says I have 6mm left on the front and only 4mm on the rear. I think I'll have to check this out for myself. Out of the 38k miles, I have driven from West Virginia to Michigan twice (1,200 miles roundtrip), Virginia Beach 5-6 times (550 roundtrip) and Phoenix (4500 miles). So, there is a lot of highway miles in that 38k. Thanks for all the replies.
     
  9. Sep 11, 2013 at 7:34 PM
    #29
    pinktaco808

    pinktaco808 Hot Steppa

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    What about the rears brake drums and shoes how do i knoe about that?
     
  10. Sep 11, 2013 at 7:35 PM
    #30
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Satoshi with FJ badge, factory cruise, factory intermittent wipers, Redline Tuning hood-lift struts, Hellwig Swaybar, Rosen DVD-Nav
    Check it yourself to be sure, but that sounds like plenty of material.
     
  11. Sep 11, 2013 at 7:35 PM
    #31
    Spoonman

    Spoonman Granite Guru

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    Take a look yourself.
     
  12. Sep 11, 2013 at 11:50 PM
    #32
    pinktaco808

    pinktaco808 Hot Steppa

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  13. Sep 12, 2013 at 2:12 AM
    #33
    Flugelhornjazz

    Flugelhornjazz '06 4.0L 4x4 6-sp MT Access

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    AFE CAI, all synth fluids, 2.5" exhaust w/ FlowMaster, Optima Deep Cycle battery, Fog mod, SnugTop cap, HID headlights, silicone hoses
    I got 80K out of the O.E. pads. I also replaced the calipers at 80K since the new pads would last at least 60K, I didn't want a leaking caliper midway through the life of the new pads...preventative measure, don't wait for the calipers to fail kindofa thing. It may have been a mistake to use aftermarket parts because the pedal is softer now. I have bled the entire system twice with DOT 4 fluid...there is no trapped air anywhere making the pedal mushy. :cool:
     
  14. Sep 12, 2013 at 10:42 AM
    #34
    minuteman

    minuteman Member

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    I wouldnt trust the dealership. they told me after my last scheduled oil change (25,000 miles) that I would need them soon. So I bought pads and when I checked at 29,000 miles i had more then 50% left on them. They just want you to spend money.
     
  15. Sep 12, 2013 at 11:26 AM
    #35
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    If your calipers are operating freely, as they should, I see no reason to lump them into the 'preventative maintenance' category. I put them with u-joints and wheel bearings, replace them when they start making noise or acting up.
     
  16. Sep 12, 2013 at 2:06 PM
    #36
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    Agree here! Replacing calipers based on just an arbitrary schedule is a waste of money IMO.

    Clean, grease the pins and inspect when you rotate the tires...
     
  17. Oct 11, 2013 at 11:54 AM
    #37
    jdavis92

    jdavis92 Well-Known Member

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    Boise, ID
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    Stock
    Just got the word that I have 3mm left on my fronts at 77K miles. So nearing the end of those.

    Rears are getting close as well. I think they said 2mm.

    I'll just go ahead and replace all four in the next few weeks.

    Any recommendations? I offroad a little, just to go hunting. I tow a 3500lb trailer occasionally. Mostly around town driving up here in Flagstaff.
     
  18. Oct 11, 2013 at 12:13 PM
    #38
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Satoshi with FJ badge, factory cruise, factory intermittent wipers, Redline Tuning hood-lift struts, Hellwig Swaybar, Rosen DVD-Nav
    OEM and nothing but.
     
  19. Oct 11, 2013 at 12:16 PM
    #39
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    I went with Duralast pads and rotors from Autozone. I hated the OEM brakes and was happy to get rid of them.
     
  20. Oct 11, 2013 at 12:19 PM
    #40
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Satoshi with FJ badge, factory cruise, factory intermittent wipers, Redline Tuning hood-lift struts, Hellwig Swaybar, Rosen DVD-Nav
    I used to use them, but only get about half the life I get out of OEM.
     

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