MPG Mods

Just to clarify, the 4x4 will see greater gains by going synthetic because of the extra differential & t-case. I'm not saying you 5 lug guys wont' see gains, just that the 6 lug people will see more of a gain by going synthetic with the additional differential and transfercase because the 4x4 is pushing that many more gears.

I called Amsoil, and they say their ATF fluid will not void factory warranty..... I will call Toyota tomorrow to confirm. I will call all the way to corporate if I gotta.... will post as soon as I know.

I got my reply from Amsoil.....

[FONT=&quot]Brad,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Multivehicle ATF meets the Toyota T-III and T-IV specifications. ATL meets the Toyota WS specification. The use of the product does not void Toyota manufacture warranty. It is recognized as meeting the specifications, and printed on the fluid label. However, it is not recognized on and “approved” list. AMSOIL does not pay companies to be listed. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Thanks[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Ashley Barone[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]AMS[/FONT][FONT=&quot]OIL[/FONT][FONT=&quot] Technical Services Representative[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]abarone@amsoil.com [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]AMSOIL INC- AMSOIL Building[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Superior, WI 54880[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]TEL [/FONT][FONT=&quot]715.392.7101 [/FONT][FONT=&quot]EXT[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]6098[/FONT][FONT=&quot] -FAX [/FONT][FONT=&quot]715.392.3097[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]www.AMSOIL.com[/FONT]



the web page for drain intervals is:
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1490.pdf?gear-lube

The drain interval for ATF is the same, so I would be most interested in focusing on the manual trans& differential& transfer case for the longer life and reduced friction to realize noticeable MPG gains.

 

That's for a V6 right? If so that is a pretty nice bump!

 

Hi! I just joined, had my 2013 Tacoma about 2 months now. I am installing fog lights, and the wiring is giving me some problems mainly no instructions or skematics. Any one know what to do with this mess of wires?

 

Hey Jimmy,

Welcome to Tacoworld.
You could try starting a separate thread in the 2nd gen forum. Be sure to post some pictures of your problem, and put your lighting question as the title.

There are a lot of very knowledgeable people here and someone will have an answer. I don't know shit about car wiring, but others do.

Greg

 

I noticed that most people seem to agree that larger tire-diameters hurt fuel mileage, but I'm wondering how many of those folks are still going by the stock odometer to track fuel. It's true that it most likely hurts your fuel mileage for city driving, but there's a good chance that at least the taller street tires improve highway MPG, but you'll never know unless your odometer or method of miles-tracking is accurate. Otherwise, it's sure to hurt your MPG, since it looks like you're going shorter distances than you actually are.

Just food for thought. Sorry if it's a dead horse.

 

Larger diameter tires do effectively raise the final gear ratio so that the engine is turning slower at any given speed. This would favor better freeway gas mileage. But what works against better gas mileage is the heavier rotating wheel and tire weights. There's an old rule that one pound of rotating weight equals ten pounds of static weight. With different wheel diameters you also throw off your odometer reading, so that you would need to use a percentage correction factor when computing gas mileage, to adjust for the slower turning wheels.

 

That's the thing. I wouldn't be surprised if half the people reporting worse MPG after the bigger wheels/tires are put on, are actually getting BETTER MPG.

It all depends on driving conditions. I think someone who puts on mostly highway miles will likely see a net gain. The added weight is less of a factor at higher speeds, going downhill, extra weight even helps.

Anywho, someone else's MPG doesn't really factor in to my own, but there just seemed to be a lot of universal agreement that it will suffer no matter what.

 

Yes. That's entirely possible, because the odometer would register less than the actual traveled miles. I'm not sure how many people actually go through the time and trouble to change their speedometer gears when they put on big heavy large diameter off road tires.

That's also possible, but only at a constant speed. As once a flywheel is rotating that energy needed to spin it remains stored within it as the inertial resistance to changing speed.

The problem is stop and go driving. As it takes more energy to get those four heavy flywheels spinning. When the brakes convert that energy into heat to slow down or to stop... that energy is lost and the next acceleration also takes more energy.

 

My MPG went up after going from heavy stock wheels and 245/75-15 tires up to lightweight wheels (18ish lbs) and 265/76-16 tires (about 40 lbs) simply because of the taller final gear ratio (especially on the highway while under 70) but also because I shed unsprung weight at the wheels/tires in the process. Works great when you only have about 125 horses working for you.

I do correct for the odo difference of 11.9% and have checked that percent/new speed with gps and speed trap things. It's right on the money.

I enjoy having oversized tires AND netting about 20% above EPA in the winter

 

This is old, from July 25th at the most recent fill up. But my record for the Summer was last week. I got 24.25 MPG and didn't even go under the speed limit to achieve it.

 

I've got the 4.0 and 6speed transmission. What is the deal with 6th being geared so low? 72mph is 2500rpm. This motor has way more power than what is necessary to maintain cruising speed at much lower rpm. I wish 6th was around 1900rpm. I have to think if it was, I'd get a lot better gas mileage over the highway.

 

slow down some so the rpm is lower. what rpm are you at when you run 65mph?

 

Any off road truck will always have lower gears.

My 5 speed 2 wheel drive came with 3.31 street gears, so 60 mph is 2,000 and 75 mph is 2,500 rpm. But that's with the smaller 4 cylinder 2.7.

I would think that your 4.0 would be powerful enough to push higher gearing and am surprised that the 6 speed doesn't have a wider range of ratios.

 

T

Yea when I put on my bigger tires my mpg's didnt change much either. Did the same thing as you went from steel to aluminum wheels and calculated for the % change in tire circumference into my mpg calculations and still got pretty much stock mpg's. Gotta stay off the interstate and the go pedal to do that though. I had people call me a liar because they couldn't get close to my mileage, but I could make a 5 lug manual get 10 miles per gallon if i drove it like an asshole.

 

Whats the best tires for the 5 lugs in regards to mpg?

 

Depends what you're driving on but I sure like Michelin LTX M/S2s.



http://www.michelinman.com/tire-selector/category/light-truck/ltx-m-s2/tire-details

 

I hear those recommended a lot, but the smallest size is 235/75/15. Will they make up for the extra size/weight?

 

What size are your tires? 255/75?

 

I have one of the small trucks, 215/70/15

 

Yeah I just looked up the stock size. It had slipped my mind.

Honestly, from what I've read of people going up to a 235 they have lost 1-2 mpg, however most if not all had gone to a more aggressive tire than this one so I don't know. The lower overall effective gear ratio may help you on the highway (it did for me) but I would guess you would still lose one or so around town if others reports are accurate. Only way to easily counter it is lightweight wheels like SCS F-5s for the 5 lug and the MS2s are pretty lightweight as well.