BenWA's 2005+ Power Sliding Rear Window Quick Install Kit

this is awesome. subd for future reference.

 

Excellent! Really impressive work adio.

Did you use the cables that came on the Ridgeline regulator or did you try using longer (e.g., bicycle) cables?

 

Like any other power window, the regulator motor torques out when the window is fully open or fully closed. If you were to hold the switch down for a long enough period when the window reaches one end of its range of motion, things could potentially get hot enough to blow a fuse (or cook your switch/wiring/regulator motor, if you don't have it all properly protected by a fuse). As long as you release the switch in a reasonably short amount of time after the window reaches its max range of motion (full open or full closed) you'll be fine.

 

Could I get a quick show of hands from those who paid me for a bracket but have not received one yet -- I got a little botched up in my record keeping and forget who I already mailed out to and who is still waiting. Please post your first name so I can cross reference with my PayPal payments. Sorry for the delay, just got back from a work trip -- I'll get em all sent out tomorrow.

 

Thanks BenWa.

I used bicycle shifter cables. I'm not sure the reliability or longevity of the cable, but we'll see how it holds up in the long run.

 

me, pmd you.

 

I know its the opposite of what you asked for but I DID receive mine.

 

I also sent you money (last week) and PM'd you yesterday. Paypal should have my shipping address for you. Let me know if you need it again. Thanks, you the man!

-Brent

 

Thanks Adio, much appreciated. I am still wondering how to prevent the cable from unwinding on the spool before hooking everything up? I know that Ben had a tie-wrap on each spring compressing them that you cut off after the cable ends were attached to the window bracket, but I can't figure out how to accomplish that.
As far as the switch is concerned, I bought mine on eBay HERE and the guy posted a part number. Mine was from an '04, but I seem to remember checking the number and it was good for newer models as well.
I have to say, yesterday after coming so close on this mod, I decided to hold off a for a while. There is SO little room between the back panel and wall, I am not sure how to route the cables. Putting the seats back in was a PITA, I could not believe how long it took.
BTW Does anyone else have a double cab that is trying this mod? I am curious as to how people are removing the seats and back wall panels.
Thanks again to Ben for sharing all his wisdom and insight with us.
Ken

 

Still trying to figure out who is still waiting for a bracket and who has already received theirs. I screwed up my bookkeeping on this.

So far I'm pretty certain I still owe the following folks brackets:
VitaminB
MaxT
Sandman614
BTaco05
Balot64

Not sure about:
Racecarguy
JBCjr

Other than VitaminB and Sandman who already replied above, could the rest please confirm if they are still waiting or have received their bracket. Thanks.

PS, I am sold out of these brackets. I do have 5 more brackets that are pretty much the same exact thing, but are just wider and need to be ripped down the middle with a table saw that is outfitted with an aluminum cutting blade. If you have that capability I can sell you one.

 

I PM'd you already Benwa, but I did receive a bracket.

 

Ken, I have a '12 double cab and the seats fold down flat and there is plenty of room to work... did they change this in the 2013's? As far as the back panels, I just removed the bolts and pulled hard to release the clips. Some of the plastic clips broke but the bolts hold it in well enough.

I have my motor mounted on the driver side plastic panel and I tied the zip tie around the blue cable stops and through the space under the mounting arm (I tried to draw an example in green on the attached picture). I used the same space for both cable stops/zip ties. The attached pic is from when I had a 9V battery hooked up to the motor, but I marked in green where I ran the motor power through the corner of the plastic bin. The other cable (which is not installed in the picture) I ran through a hole I drilled in the overhang of the plastic (also marked in green). The bottom cable goes through the hole for the child seat hook and the housing runs along the ridge on the back wall... I didn't have any space issues with either cable housing, etc.

I don't have Ben's bracket yet, but with my current setup I started with the passenger side cable (bottom cable on the spool). I closed the window and inserted the end of the cable onto the motor spool and fed the cable through the housing, etc., to the bracket. I then wound the cable around the spool until the motor gears fit the teeth of the spool so I could push the spool on the motor the way it is supposed to be. After that, I measured the length of cable I needed by pulling the cable to the bracket, measuring, and then adding length to allow room for attaching it to the bracket. I then cut the cable and attached the cable to the bracket. After connecting the cable, I powered the motor to open the window.

With the window open I started installing the driver side cable by feeding it through the housing etc., as above. Once the cable is routed near the bracket, I inserted the other end onto the spool and wound it around the track until it could exit the motor where it is supposed to. Note: You may need to back the motor off just a touch (a tiny amount) to relieve some pressure on the spool so you can slightly pull the spool out away from the gears allowing you to get the cable on the track of the spool. Also, this will relieve tension on the bracket so you can remove it from the window just enough to attach the other cable. Measure and cut the driver's side cable allowing JUST ENOUGH extra cable length to pull the bracket up enough to attach the cable. After it is attached, your adjusters should give you plenty of room to take up the slack, so long as you didn't overdo it when leaving extra length for attaching the cable.

Once you are hooked up on both ends, cut the zip ties and then power the motor a little bit in both directions to see if you need to tighten things up. If so, make it so the passenger side blue cable stop/spring is not compressed and then tighten things on that side (because you already used some of your adjuster space on the other side when hooking up the driver side cable).

This worked for me with my current bracket, but I haven't worked with Ben's yet... I'll let you know when I get my hands on it if you want me to.

That is my best attempt to help... hard to describe in words.

-Brent

 

Thanks keninsb, I will check out the part number listed on the Ebay site.

I'm gathering parts. I recently installed a DEI 530 control module to make both of my front windows auto up and auto down,

DEI makes another module, a DEI 529T, that only controls one window switch but should work perfectly for our open and close rear window.

Do you think it would work? That way you just have to tap the switch and it will automatically disconnect power when fully open or closed.

Ebay has the DEI 529T for $20 to $50.

I'm going to give it a try.

Thanks to all for sharing and thanks to Ben for helping figuring it out.

Max

 

MaxT- I was thinking of doing the same thing on mines, but I'm no electrician. Keep us updated, I so want to do that.

 

Ok, shipped out my last batch of brackets. You all should be getting them in a few days.

All I have left now are the wide ones that would need to be ripped down the middle on a table saw.

 

Fantastic! Thanks again Ben!

 

Ben, I PM'ed you and yes, I am still due for a bracket.

Thanks.

 

VitaminB thanks SO much for the explanation, it helps a LOT. I am not sure if they changed anything on the seats, I doubt it. Mine do fold flat, and then to remove the seats originally I unbolted them from the floor (both sides stay together when you remove it that way). Putting it back in I had to remove these little panels that clip in to each of the lower corners of the seat back and unbolted them from the brackets. They are a pain. It just did not look like the back panels would come off with the seats in place. I am definitely trying it your way next time!

Ben I DID get my bracket (definitely looks WAY more professional than my attempt). Thanks!

Ken

MaxT, I am really not sure about that module and how it would function with the rear windows. Ben would probably have a much better idea that I would. Looks cool though!

 

Oh one thing I forgot to mention: Thanks for the kudos on the "turnbuckle" but I think I was using the wrong terminology. A turnbuckle tightens the cables by PULLING (contracting) at both ends, while the COUPLER works differently, it stretches the cable by pushing (expanding) on the cable housings. I hope this makes sense. I just don't want anyone getting goofed on parts if they go to the hardware store.
Thanks,
Ken

 

For those looking for the Sienna switch that Adio and Keninsb posted above, it's the sienna rear vent switch from a 2004-09 Sienna. I'm acquiring parts and just purchased an 07, but the part # on the switch is 182835 and is the same as a 2004 from what I've found. This is for the vertical switch. The years prior look to be the same, just a horizontal position. I'm not positive if the "TWH951" wire harness will work with the prior years, but those that have DCOR's it could be an option since you don't have any free slots and may like the look of this switch.