Steering wheel feels too "free" at highway speed

Get the inner tie rod replaced then, it's only $35 at Rock Auto (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=504266&cc=1429084). Even if the toe is set correctly, the fact the ball-and-socket joint in the tie rod can't move smoothly can give a stick-slip behavior and cause shimmy.

Toe out will cause some wondering issues. 0.8 deg toe out contributes to the problem, but simply correcting toe likely won't cure your issue.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6O01xIDnuk8 Just a thought.

 

ah ok, I had a similar feeling but it ended up being the slip joint in the column. After tack welding it all is good.

I believe you can replace just the seal in the rack if tack welding that joint fixes yours.

 

I actually got pulled over once on the interstate because someone called me in thinking I was drunk. I attribute it to needing to tack the slip joint eventually (well mostly messing with my ipod or something, but that's beside the point). I've been putting it off, but now one of my orange lights behind the gauge cluster is out too so I need to tear the dash apart to get to both.

Ryan, if you decide to do the slip joint thing lemme know. We can do them both at once (plus I don't have a welder ) I'll even be the guinea pig to go first so we can fuck mine up and get it right with yours haha

 

Get LR UCA's. You get additional Caster/Camber adjustments which allows you to keep your weels center (or push fwd/back) when adjusting caster.

 

I will bring my little 120v welder from home and we can knock it out sometime. I hope the reward vs time is worth it.

 

Nice video! I need to do this.

 

Take a look at the TTORA thread. You can remove the whole assemly in like 6 bolts. Don't need to remove all of the trim, ducting etc.. Makes it an even easier job.

 

definitely tack weld the slip joint in the steering column. that made more of a difference on my two tacomas then the poly rack bushings. takes about 2 hours the first time you do it, but it's a very straightforward job.

 

I was just reading that thread. Post #42 in the ttroa thread does simplify the column removal. Thanks.

 

I am definitely using that as my defense!! "But, but officer, my caster is out of spec and I had to choose whether to put food on my family's table or to get some Total Chaos UCAs" lol

 

Yep, 3 bolts, 2 springs, a few plugs and the clam shell trim just in front of the wheel. No need to even remove the lower trim panel at all.
Needle nose vise grip pliers come in handy for letting the tilt springs know who is boss. Shimming up the pivot ball is also worthwhile.

For non tilt wheels it is a little more involved but not by much. I have the dope on that if anyone wants it.

 

Yea I made the video before someone confirmed that there was an easier way.

 

I've tried the "I just got bigger tires and my speedo is probably off and I forgot about it until now" as an excuse for speeding like 3 times, still don't get let off.

 

I put my sway bar back on and now the shake is a lot better. Live-able for sure.

 

Does anyone have a link to the TTORA thread, I did a search but got 10 pages... I need to weld my steering column too but would like the easier way to remove it.
Thanks.

 

Here you go.

 

Ive been told using a roll pin works also? I don't want to do this if I have to remove the entire steering column.

EDIT: nevermind, should've read the whole thread... may try some sort of set screw instead. I don't want to remove the steering shaft especially after some have reported problems of binding (never really got an answer as to why either)