Tools and Compressors

<-- Work for a large tool manufacturer (leave out name for now) so let me know if you have any questions and hopefully I can help out.

Impacts, ratchets, compressors, hoists, drills, cordless, etc.

New to the Tacoma world so I'm sure I will have questions for you all in return.

 

My hose/air line keeps developing bubbles and bursting, I’m assuming I need a better hose or un the compressor at lower PSI? I bought on of those orange Goodyear 100’ hose from harbor fright; do I need a better house?

 

What size/model compressor do you have?
What are you running off the compressor? impact wrenchs? grinders?
Where is the line puncturing? near the fitting or along the line?

In terms of tools or compressed air systems, I would stay far away from Harbour Freight, there is a reason why everything is so inexpensive there.

99% of all pneumatic tools are built to run optimally at 90 PSI. Most small recipricating compressors (which I am assuming you have) run close to 125 PSI out of the gate. If you pair the higher pressure with a crappy hose, not only can the hose line burst, but it can damage the tool.

I would pick up a higher rated hose and a Filter/Regulator/Lubricator piggyback system (relatively cheap) and pipe directly on to the compressor. Using the regulator, lower it to 90-95 PSI and now you should be golden.

If you want to get serious (since you live in Cali) I would even look at a smaller dryer to protect you from all that hot moisture you are getting in the line.... just a thought.

 

What size/model compressor do you have?

- Its one of the bigger craftsman, I forget which so i'll have to check when I get home but I believe it’s a 22gallong 125 or 150 PSI.

What are you running off the compressor? impact wrenchs? grinders?

- Mainly a nail gun so far but I do used an impact wrench and grinders every so often

Where is the line puncturing? near the fitting or along the line?

- I don’t believe so, most of the bubbles are developing near the tool side of the hoses.


Filter/Regulator/Lubricator piggyback system???

Can you give me some for info on this? I’m not sure what you are referring to. My brother in-law did recently give me some valve that attaches to the outlet of the compressor which seems to regulate the pressure feeding the hose much like that is already built in to the compressor; I’ll take a picture of it when I get home.

 

Hey Phillyguy, I have a torque ratchet wrench that I loaned to my brother-in-law who used it as a breaker bar. Needless to say, the next time I went to use it, it didn't work at all. After taking the retaining ring off, what came out was the center body and a lot of metal dust. I'm wondering if this thing is worth repairing and how good of a torque wrench it was to begin with. It's a Utica TCI-150FDR and I'm not finding much in the way of rebuild kits let alone google search hits. Any thoughts?

 

Also I generally don’t need 100’ unless I’m working on the house. Would it be a bad ideal to just get a new 25’ for garage use and keeping the 100’ for when I need it that long? I don’t think I’ll need it that often now that the most of the house is remodeled. I’m also thinking about removing the damaged area by cutting 10’ of it off and attaching a new fitting with a hose clamp. Bad idea?

 

You'll get a pressure drop over 100' - typically about 5psi per 50'.

If you have a decent barbed fitting to go inside the hose and a decent tight hose clamp, it won't be a problem. What's the worst that can happen, it breaks away and the hose whips for a while. You should pressure down the system when not in use anyway.

 

Isn't a ratchet wrench only about $30 new? If so, ditch the old and buy a new one.

 

Actually the torque wrench he is talking about is over $150.00. What I would do is locate your nearest Utica distributor (should also be a repair facility) and ask them what their opinion is. Unfortunately when torque wrenches like those break, repair them would take some sort of calibration to ensure its hitting torque again.

Be cautious when you get a quote from them, they will probably charge you per 60 mins of repair when it will only take them 20 mins to actually fix. You may be able to find another used one online somewhere or at a local refab place.

Unfortunately I dont deal with Utica otherwise I would take care of it for you. I may be able to find one at a discount for you, PM me.

 

Yes there will be a slight pressure drop over the span of 100' but if its just being used for a nail gun, it should not make too much of a difference.

You can cut the hose, however I wouldnt fix a bad hose because it will probably break again. Cheap airline hoses are VERY easy to pierce, even a slight hole. Every hole you get will result in a decrease of total CFM and pressure along with adding moisture into your lines.

If the leak is happening near the tool, it could be from constant twisting of the tool or rubbing the hose on something slightly abrasive. A more durable hose will not puncture that easily and should have little to no cfm loss.

Here is a link for the FRL's I was talking about for the compressor. This regulates your pressure down, filters dirt and other particulate, and lubricates your tools. Every compressor should have one.

http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/IS/Category.aspx-am_en-34385

 

Actually a little ironic that you asked this considering the recent posts on this forum about synthetic vs. standard oil.

What you have is a single-stage (belt driving one single piston) electric compressor. I would guess around 2-3hp. If you can be a little more specific on what oil you put in the compressor, it could help. But like any old motor or engine, if you put new oil in, it can break sludge seals and loosen old gaskets. What I see quite often are old compressors that people try to "revive" by changing the oil out. This can actually crack the seals and gaskets and unbalances the single piston (starts shaking) while it trys to hit peak pressure.

I would replace the oil one more time with proper synthetic compressor oil and see if it helps. If not, your pump is pretty much shot. If you are handy and can find the parts (pending age of the compressor) you may be able to rebuild the cylinder, otherwise you may be in the market for a new one.

A compressor that size are not that expensive. If you are interested in a new, PM me and I can try help ya out.

But get back to me on the "pneumatic" oil you used and lets see if we can fix the old dog.

 

Check the seals and gaskets. See if its leaking around the pump, thats where the shaking will be coming from.

 

I have a 4HP 13 gallon compressor (cant remember the manufacture) that will run fine when first turn on, but when the compressor comes on the 2nd time it blows house my breaker. You know of any place in the NJ/PA area that fixes this or is it even worth fixing.

 

Does it blow the breaker when there is pressure already in the tank? Or does it only happen when there is absolutely no pressure.

If happens occasionally when there is either pressure or no pressure, it is most likely your check valve. I would pull the check valve out and look to see if the plastic ball is still in there or if there is dirt inside of it. If you dont mind getting a little dirty, blow on the check valve and make sure air only goes through one way, not the other.

If it only happens when there is no pressure in the tank, there could be a "bad spot" in the motor that is shorting out the system by drawing more amps. The compressor SHOULD NOT be drawing more amps to routinely fill your tank up.

In terms of repairs, call the manufacturer of the compressor and ask what they think. My office personally only works with compressors 10-6000 HP, smaller stuff we don't get involved in.

If you are in the market for a new one, I can help you out with units on this link: http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/IS/Category.aspx-am_en-12876

 

Hey Philly, thought I'd update you as to your advice. I contacted Utica which is made by Cooper Power Tools and they sent me a really nice e-mail with attached drawings that showed replacement parts. It was very thorough. I ordered what they said from Fastenal and $75 later, I have a torque wrench again. I saw a complete Utica model like I have on ebay that sold for $12 and was kicking myself but you never know what condition these are in. Anyhow, thanks for the advice. Luckily, I didn't have to buy this torque wrench in the first place - it was given to me.

 

Awesome! So you saved yourself almost half compared to buying a new one. Yeah you need to be very cautious on ebay or harbour freight because you really never know what you are going to get, especially when torque is critical.

Sometimes it makes sense to pay double for something that will last 4X longer. Thats why we all own Tacoma's and not Chevy S10s! Same thing applies to industrial equipment. Working for Ingersoll Rand I have seen all of this first hand.

Let me know how else I can help!