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Changing differential fluid - A step by step "HOW TO"

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by brianr, Jan 21, 2009.

  1. Oct 4, 2013 at 3:26 PM
    #1461
    95 taco

    95 taco Battle Born

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    Thanks Kelly, I got ahold of a online manual and it calls for 80-90 or 90, so i picked up enough 80-90 to do my rear diff, which I might be doing today
     
  2. Oct 4, 2013 at 6:23 PM
    #1462
    TACO TX

    TACO TX Well-Known Member

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    Yea, you need a quality 6pt 24mm socket preferably in the half inch drive flavor an a 15" breaker bar.
     
  3. Oct 4, 2013 at 10:00 PM
    #1463
    95 taco

    95 taco Battle Born

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    I got it done, i did get a 6 point 24mm socket the other day, and my uncle happened to have a real long 1/2'' ratchet.

    The E-brake cable is right in the way though, and i didn't have a pump but i was able to use 2 funnels to get the diff full.
    Gonna top it off tomorrow, i think i filled it on a slight incline, so it may not be filled all the way.
     
  4. Oct 4, 2013 at 11:59 PM
    #1464
    MQQSE

    MQQSE Bannable Galloot

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    :wave: PM'd :)
     
  5. Oct 8, 2013 at 6:54 AM
    #1465
    Gene563

    Gene563 Well-Known Member

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    This is an update from my post #1395.
    I had about 4K miles on this fluid change and was starting to feel vibrations. It was strange and only happened on the first drive of the day, backing out of the driveway; after that it would be ok. As I would back out and cut the wheel, I could feel the vibrations through the seat; then again pulling forward, wheel cut the opposite way ... That was about it.
    I had read where the "Dino" oil performed better in the rear, so I changed it out again. This time I used Valvoline HD, 75/90 with the additive, of course. Same procedure that I mentioned above, looking silly in the HS parking lot going in circles, but all seems fine.
    I must not have dropped the spare tire the first time, but let me tell you, what a big difference ... I bailed on the pump and was able to fill the diff by the bottle alone.
     
  6. Oct 8, 2013 at 3:48 PM
    #1466
    theredofshaw

    theredofshaw Well-Known Member

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    dropping the spare made it MUCH easier for me. gave me more room to crawl under there too.
     
  7. Oct 14, 2013 at 1:18 AM
    #1467
    marcom13

    marcom13 Member

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    Hi,
    I'm new and stupid about this, I'm still reeling from my taco which should be able to pull 5100 GVWR but mechanics at Toyota World say the frame is so rusted they won't clear it for 3000 GVWR. Anyway, that's another thread. I will be changing my diff gear oil, I have a 2001 TRD with Factory locker so I won't need any additive. I hope I read that correctly!?! The write up and pics will be very helpful just as soon as I unrust the nuts from the axel pumpkin.
    Thanks again,
    by the way, I'm marcom 13, 2001 Taci TRD 4x4 150k and rusted to hell, underneath. Drives good!!!!!!!
     
  8. Oct 14, 2013 at 2:49 AM
    #1468
    TACO TX

    TACO TX Well-Known Member

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    You read exactly right, no additive is needed in yours. Sorry about all the rust, but good news is you might get a new frame soon. I dont know how all that works but quite a few have. Welcome!:wave:
     
  9. Nov 2, 2013 at 9:35 PM
    #1469
    YoterHead

    YoterHead Well-Known Member

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    Just changed my rear diff oil tonight....

    Has anyone else forgot to put the small washer on the drain plug?

    I didn't see it in the oil pan until I was already done with the change. So, I didn't exactly want to take out the bolt at that point.

    Think I'll be okay? I'm torqued to spec. No visible drips, etc.
     
  10. Nov 3, 2013 at 3:58 AM
    #1470
    jcman01

    jcman01 Well-Known Member

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    You're referring to the crush washer? That part is not optional. You'll likely develop a leak with the expansion/contraction of the housing.

    You really need to bite the bullet and chalk this one up as a learning experience. Go to the dealer and purchase 2 new washers (drain and fill ports) for about $2 each. Then drain the lube. Call it an expensive flushing of the diff :)

    Some people re-use the crush washer, but you're supposed to replace them. The reason you torque is to properly crush and seal the drain plug against the crush washer.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2013
  11. Nov 3, 2013 at 5:17 AM
    #1471
    YoterHead

    YoterHead Well-Known Member

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    No. I don't think this is a crush washer. There was not a crush washer on there. This is what I'm looking at.

    IMG_20131102_232541_873_37bf9bade9bd92058f430ef27a226a16daeadb86.jpg
     
  12. Nov 3, 2013 at 5:31 AM
    #1472
    TACO TX

    TACO TX Well-Known Member

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    Thats the crush washer. You need to put it back on or replace it with a new one. Tip: Never let the plug fall into the bucket. I dont recall off hand which way the washer goes so i hold it until i clean it up and see which way it goes on the plug before sliding it off. I have never installed a new one and never a leak.
     
  13. Nov 3, 2013 at 5:34 AM
    #1473
    LaborisAmust2

    LaborisAmust2 Wtaco42

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    Thanks again this was a great right up did mine last week bought some attachment for the quart bottles that had a clear plastic tube 3 ft or so long and was able turn the oil upside down in the wheel well right side of spare tire seemed to go faster with know mess. Walmart quart bottle attachment 3 or 4 $. Kendall 75-80w gear oil compatible with LSD rears. Thanks again LaborisAMust2.
     
  14. Nov 3, 2013 at 5:35 AM
    #1474
    YoterHead

    YoterHead Well-Known Member

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    Well son of a b****

    I wonder how little I can spill while trying to get that thing back on?
     
  15. Nov 3, 2013 at 5:37 AM
    #1475
    MQQSE

    MQQSE Bannable Galloot

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    Just a thought...but if you put it up high enough and use a funnel to bottle or just a clean catch can of some sort, you could probably pump the oil right back in. :notsure:
     
  16. Nov 3, 2013 at 5:42 AM
    #1476
    YoterHead

    YoterHead Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I could do that. I've got some extra oil left over too. I'd just have to buy a new pump. I bought a brand new pump yesterday and the thing broke after like 5 pumps. I had to hold the pieces together while pumping...

    Maybe the oil won't come out as fast if I leave the fill plug on while I get the washer back on there.
     
  17. Nov 3, 2013 at 5:55 AM
    #1477
    MQQSE

    MQQSE Bannable Galloot

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    Bummer ... surprised mine has lasted thru ... hmmm ... 2 complete driveline fluid changes now. If you put it up high on jack stands or ramps and move quick (have that washer ready, plug out washer on, plug back in) you'll probably only have to put back a quart or less. But have the right clothes on ... cause there's bound to be some splash. Good luck and :popcorn: we'll be waiting to hear how it goes. ;)
     
  18. Nov 3, 2013 at 6:12 AM
    #1478
    TACO TX

    TACO TX Well-Known Member

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    I use the marine lower unit pump from Wal-mart and it has done the truck and numerous lower unit changes on my boat. Still going strong. Somebody else had the vato zone one break also.
     
  19. Nov 3, 2013 at 6:24 AM
    #1479
    quantum

    quantum Well-Known Member

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  20. Nov 3, 2013 at 6:28 AM
    #1480
    Bogg

    Bogg Well-Known Member

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