Scary- gonna build my own sub into console

why dont you guys use birch ply, its much better to work with and so much lighter.
If you know what your doing and have the right products its so easy to have great sub stage. DC audio, Sundown audio both released CRAZY 8 inch subs that will most likely keep up with most 12s without a doubt and take 1000wrms with ease. There are also other companies for you guys that love the shallow mounted subs that you can do the same with. Another little tip, The rear bench backrest can actually be moved forward utilizing only one bolt instead of 2 and a spacer template used for the bottom to extend it forward by 2 inches to allow the seat bench bottom to still move up. This allows for much more room in behind the seat!

Cheers

 

I'm down for using whatever. I got mdf because I've always just used whatever was laying around- usually particle board, which is terrible. I'm not a huge fan of mdf BUT--- I must say it was very easy to to reshape and hone bits of it as necessary using only a bit of sand paper- I DID like NOT having to get out a power sander and sawzall for that part

 

So. I'm going to make a "step by step" picture tutorial in a downloadable form rather than try to do it in a post here. Apparently uploading pics and such on here isn't all that quick and easy from my phone haha.

 

Ok, I've decided now that I've built one and mounted and studied the way it fits for a week, I'm gonna build another, it will have slightly more airspace, and angle the sub down a bit more to hopefully change the way it resonates throughout the cab.

It could be mostly the sub and lack of decent head unit right now but the resonating frequency is too high for my taste

 

Could be wrong but to get rid of the high resonating freq's you could try angling it towards the floor more. The closer you get to downward the less highs you should hear from it.

Out of curiosity what do you have you lpf tuned to?

 

That's exactly what I'm doing - I'm re cutting a new box, with more of an angle on it to point the speaker downwards- the first box had it facing straight to the rear of cab

The only lpf on it at the moment is the one built onto the amp, the lowest it goes is 32, I turned it up just a little past that. Once I get a new stereo I can have better control over that. For now I'm using EQ apps on my iphone to play music with a bit more precision

 

32 is quite low, for a 10 you can go up to around 80-100 which is low and mid low (at least as far as I am concerned). I would stay below 100 though and closer to 80.

The closer you can get it pointed to the floor the better. If you can get it facing straight down leave 2-3 inches for the sound to come out and plenty of room for the sub to flex.

I have only done a couple custom enclosures myself (not in a truck without a back wall or room on the floor though) so I am not sure how best to tune it (freqs and where to point). Good luck with your build. I just put two infinity kappa 6x9's in the front door and 6.75 jl components in the rear door powered by a JL audio 400/4 amp (100 watts to each speaker) and the lows are sufficient for now, but I am pretty sure I will get greedy at some point and think about a sub.

 

Double cab tacomas resonate around 55hz. No matter what box I used, tuned to my trucks res freq always remained 55hz
Changing the angle of your sub from rear ward facing to downward facing will not change ur problem. Your sub plays the freq it's been told to play. Down firing will also reduce ur subs output quite a bit
My advice, face rear wards, port the box tuned 33hz and you will be fine.
There is nothing you can do to change the resonant freq of the trucks response ( in terms of box position) but changing the size of the box, sealed vs ported etc will change the response substantially

 

Thanks guys! I did build another facing a bit more downward, it's about the same sound I guess but it does fit better this time.

I can't port the box, it's concealed in my center console, but once I get an eq on it I can make it sound better. For now it's ok I guess

 

try stuffing the box, it will help a little

 

I wondered about that. I thought maybe I shouldn't because I'd lose airspace ? Suppose it can't hurt to try though.

 

Here is my box:





I used MDF. Removed the Inverter and used the brackets to bolt in the box. The top of the box becomes the floor for the center console.
6.5in woofer. Can't remember who makes it.


Fritz

 

nice work.

 

Wow! Looks great!