Overhead Compass/Temp Fix

I agree with Partzguy. Very fast turnaround and their replacement is 1,000 times better than the original. Toyota replaced my original with the new and improved unit and it turns out to be worse than original units.

 

I can also vouch for silicon method. After my attempts failed, I sent it to the and it came back better than new. I believe they also warranty their work for 3 years iirc.

 

Just wanted to say thank you for this fix!

This happened to my '08 Tacoma (w/ 80k miles) about 3 weeks ago. I just followed the instructions, spent 5mins with a Soldering iron ( 510 were visibly lifted off the PCB) and bam! It's working again

 

tired re-soldering both 510's, after a day it went out again.. rechecked and solder is still their... maybe i need to check for burn on bottom of board?

 

It is possible one of the 510's has a crack in it. They are rather fragile.

 

Or the pad lifted from the trace. You may want to run solder down the trace to beef it up.

Oh, and silver solder FTW

 

Just bought a used 06 Taco and the overhead wasn't working. Found this thread and figured I'd give it a try. The solder on the 510 resistor was broken, but even after soldering both side three times, it's still not working. Any thoughts, besides the board being bad?

 

Somebody else mentioned in this thread that most likely it is a soldering problem. Unless you are an expert solderer and are 100% confident you have a good solder, the answer is that you probably don't.

I have repaired mine three times. I thought it was good each time, but after some amount of time (ranging from hours to months), something went bad and my solder detached.

My compass/thermometer is currently not working, and it sucks.

 

I took my 06 to the Dealer in Tennessee and got the entire unit replaced since it wasn't working when I bought the truck.
No questions, and they replaced the unit in about an hour or so at no cost. Now I will see how long it keeps working!

 

I'm no expert and I soldered mine. Still working a week later. Did you solder both ends of both 510s? Check out these guys. http://www.siliconmethod.com/. I haven't needed them yet, but a couple other members gave them good marks. Costs nothing but a few minutes to check their site.

 

Silver Solder for the win. I've said it before, but the high temps the back of that board reaches against the roof is bad for the joints and the silver solder has a higher melting point.
Over a year on my repair on a black taco and North Carolina summer.

 

This is broken in the used Taco I just bought. Used that to my advantage to get the price down even more. Think I'll order one of the eBay ones as I fear my soldering ability will be inadequate.

 

I just put mine in the mail today to have this guy on ebay fix it for $16.95. I will report back on the results later.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/out.php?...dule-Repair-2005-2006-2007-2008-/181166907078

 

I have also used silicon method and they did a great job and with a fast turnaround. Would def go back if I had a problem

 

THANKS, Amigo! I just read the entire procedure to my wife, who is busily preparing dinner...she listened with rapt attention to every detail You have made my day, leaving me itching to dive into the overhead panel, tomorrow. I will post results ASAP, and lift a beer to you for the priceless (well, about $1K at least) directions

 

He fixed it. And it lasted for about a week. Now it's not working again.

I hate this truck.

 

Search is my friend and the results on this site never let me down... yet another dead-on fix for the truck. I just took it out after getting back from lunch and found this thread. Popped the display out and there it is.... Bad 510 showing... Thanks for the fix everyone. This site just rocks!

 

Done and works fine. It took longer for the soldering iron to warm up and cool off than it did to repair and put it back in the truck. Awesome!! Thanks!!

 

@RichieW13,

As long as it worked for a while, it is perfectly repairable again. If you want to send it my way, we can get it repaired (correctly). Or, follow my DIY guide here.

Either way, don't hate the truck...hate on the ebay scammers who can't solder their way out of a paper bag.

Siliconmethod Display repairs

 

misc,
Thanks for the excellent link containing detailed info on repair of the Accessory Panel Circuit Board. I've had no problem following directions, up to a point. Now, I'm trying to separate the green circuit board from its gray cover, so I can gain access to the backside where all the circuits lie.
Working slowly and carefully to avoid any sort of damage, I feel the white cannon plug needs to separate from the gray housing to allow lifting and removal of the board. It latches in some manner to the housing, and I have been unable to discover the method of release.
The eight (8) wires from that plug wrap tightly around one end of the gray housing before attaching to a terminal on the edge of the CB. They must be freed to allow that end of the CB to lift and slide from its mounted position.
The other end of the CB is held down under the selector switch, which is fixed. I can see easily the topside of both "510" resistors, if that's what they are, but cannot see or access the working side to effect the fix, without removal of the Circuit Board (CB).
The question is: How do I remove the White Harness Plug from the grey housing? Once accomplished, the attached wires can be lifted from their tightly-pressed routing, freeing up that end of the CB.
Looks simple, but is tricky and a bit frustrating