Another LED Bed Light Thread

So I finally got around to putting in some LED bed lights today. I used the parts linked below, and managed to get everything done in about 3 hours. I didn't bother with an in-cab switch since I figured I'd either leave them on by accident or have to run around to the cab to turn it on, and if I didn't have my keys it'd just turn into this whole thing. So I got a magnetic reed switch and now they turn off when the gate shuts. I think - with the tonneau cover it's kind of like how you can never really be sure the fridge light goes off when you close the door. There's no eerie glow when I shut the gate so I'm pretty sure it's fine.

Anyway, here are the parts:

Cool White LED Waterproof Flexible Strip Light, T93007-1 (1 Pack) - 25 watt, 300 "3528 SMD, 12 Volt, 16.4 feet, Pure White - 1 Pack

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EHHLD8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$6 HitLights LED Light Strip Connector, 8mm Single Color 3528-6" Any Angle Strip to Strip, 4 Pack

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062RBR84/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$15 Directed Electronics 8600 Micro Magnetic Switch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009SUEZY/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And here are the pics:



I don't know if you can tell from the pic, but the magnet part of the switch is actually installed to sit beside the switch when the gate is closed. There wasn't a good place to mount everything where they'd contact as intended, but there's about a 1" space all around the switch where the magnet triggers the circuit.



I used corner connectors with flex tubing for the corners, and I intend to go back tomorrow and wrap the white endcaps with electrical tape and press them into place with hot glue. The 3M adhesive backing seems to hold pretty well everywhere except on the ends - the weight of the connectors seems to pull it away from the rails.



I only had to drill one hole in the bed liner to drop the LED wiring down behind the cubby and I'll fill that in with silicone just to clean things up a bit.







Now my question for you guys is this: I couldn't find an always-on fuse to tap into in the cab, so I put the add-a-fuse in an empty spot under the hood. Any reason I shouldn't have done this? I've seen other bed light threads where a whole fuse block was added. Also I noticed when I tested the add-a-fuse in the cab, the LEDs only lit up about half as bright as when connected under the hood. Can anyone explain why that was?

 

Looks good man! Bed lights are in my future, haven't decided what way to go yet...
Add a fuse isn't my first choice for any aftermarket stuff. If your going to be throwing a lot of stuff in your truck, get an aftermarket fuse block man!
I think your in cab fuse panel pushes less amps than your under hood, or the slot you were using. Not sure though, I'll look into it, unless someone else on here knows.

 

My guess is you hooked into something already powering a circuit that was near it's max available power. These LEDs generally take very little amperage to run, guessing 2a. (?) so the in cab box can easily power it, just depends on which fuse/circuit you tapped into. As far as the in cab 'pushing less amps' that's a non issue here, just gotta get the right spot to tap or leave it where you have it now. With an in-line fuse you could go straight to the battery as well. Just keep in mind that if the lights are left on it'll eventually kill the batt. no matter where you tap power if it's a constant feed circuit.

 

Yeah, it hadn't escaped me that if the magnet falls off, I might not realize it until the battery is dead. I picked up some JB Weld to affix the magnet later this week. The adhesive that it came with seems pretty strong, but it's probably not rated for rain, high temps or humidity.

As for the in-cab wiring, none of the blanks seemed to provide power, and the other fuses I tapped either required the ignition to be on or dimmed the lights when they did work. Seems like I read some other thread where it made a difference which way the AAF was turned, so I tried it both ways anytime it wouldn't work at all.

 

Okay, I cleaned up the corners and went ahead and ordered a fuse box. Didn't notice the hot glue thread until i got back inside and saw the pic:

 

I know this is kind of a dumb question but I want to do the cleanest wiring I can.

How did you guys who installed bed lights (and other electrical in the rear) get the power back from the engine bay? What I mean by this is how did you route your wiring?

I went to finish my bed lights last night, and between the cats on both sides, the steering, and drive shafts, and suspension it seems pretty hard to get the wiring out of the engine bay and past the transmission.

Any help/suggestions are appreciated.

 

for the hole in the bed, why not grommets like these?

uxcell 3 Pcs 39mm Black Rubber Armature Bar Grommets Firewall Bushing

http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Armatur...id=1380900326&sr=1-24&keywords=rubber+grommet

 

Thanks for the reply. That is a good idea for the bed, but I was wondering where people routed the wiring from the engine bay to get under the truck past the transmission.

When you look from the fuse box under the hood down there is an un godly amount of things to work around (cat, steering, suspension). Do you guys go down that route or is there a way I am not thinking of?

 

For me I wired the power into the cab and through the firewall. there is a grommet kinda under the driver seat that i poked a hole through and ran the wire in. then I went under the kick plate and the firewall with the other wiring.

 

This. It's not as difficult as it sounds once you know where everything is. There is some more detail on how to get under the seat in some of the threads on installing automatic gate locks. You might even find a wire to tap into for the power so you don't have to go through the firewall.

 

This is a good idea - just ordered.

 

thanks for taking the time to post this.... And working links to products that are actually still for sale! Lol seems like every time I find one of these bed LED light posts, it's so old the links to the products don't work. I will definitely be using this info! Thanks again!

 

Thanks, I am will check this path out tonight after work.

 

Could one tap into the power of the trailer wiring harness. I haven't checked, but assume the 7pin plug has always-on 12volts and can handle at least 2amps?

Has anyone else tapped into another constant 12v source without going all the way to the fuse box?

I've mounted some LED strips by Sylvania "Mosaic" 6x2ft strips that I found at Costco for $30.
https://www.sylvania.com/en-us/products/featured-products/Pages/mosaic-flexible-led-strips.aspx
The kit included a AC transformer to drop to 12V, then the control box with IR pickup to control LED output.

While they provide multiple colors they can produce close to white light by combining them all. It includes a remote as well, but the LEDs will return to the last setting when power is reapplied without using the remote. While the image doesn't show it, the lights are on all 3 sides. The cab side strip is mounted onto the bed track facing straight down. The two side strips are mounted to the bed, under the track by the 3M tape, facing towards the center of the bed. I chose the 2 different routes to ensure I had good spread of light.

 

looks great! I put the harbor freight fog lights in my bed forever ago, but I've always wanted to replace them with led strips. The HF lights are rusting, and I'm always paranoid that I'll kill my battery by the time I finish tying down whatever it is in my bed, so the LEDs would be nicer for both.

My only questions, is can I just leave my wiring for the normal bulbs lamps, and replace them with the led strips, or do I need some additional fuse in there to bring the power down?? Will the normal power that the lights have now be too much for a single LED strip? I know with motorcycles I've replaces plenty of tail lights and turn signals with LED versions and not had any problems.

 

I gotta do this...just have to find the time!!

 

Since you have 12V running to the back already, you are ahead of the game. Reuse your wiring.

Most of my time was spent running a wire along the frame and back to the rear pass. corner. With the kit I used 12v is what you want, and I assume the same thing with the OP.

You could probably reduce the amperage of the fuse you have (I assume you have your power fused). I'm running my strip using a 7.5 amp fuse, although the specs on those Sylvania strip was only 2amps.

 

I'm pretty sure I have a fuse in there, it's been so long since I did it I can't remember what I did. I think one came in the box though. I'll see what size fuze I have on it. Gonna replace the stick on switch with one that screws into the hole. A couple months of bumps and pot holes and the switch stopped sticking. It's just been in there dangling by the cord haha.

Agreed, most of the time was spent routing the wiring. I think I actually spent the most time sticking the wiring inside of that flexible plastic conduit I put it in to protect it. The rest of the job was super simple, and that's coming from someone who has no idea about electrical work at all.

 

I think you're fine using your existing wiring. These LED strips are designed for 12v input and I think someone tested them and they're only drawing like 3 amps. I wired mine to the fuse box under the hood with a 10A add-a-fuse

As for switches, my magnetic switch that turns the lights on when i open the tailgate has worked out great. the only advice I'd give would be to solder the connections on the corners when you install. The corner connectors are a different brand than the lights, and so the connections have a little less than 1mm wiggle room, meaning from time to time you have to fidget with the corners to get the lights back on. They don't really "bite" into the strips as well as they should. I went back with some solder and that resolved the issue.

 

neat. i need to do this