TORSPD: NEVR

is that a typo (meant 100k?), or do you actually mean 10k miles on the transmission fluid change?

i'm at 75k, but it's been a very hard 75 between the towing and wheeling, so i'd love to come by for a hand with that.

you said 40wt for the motor, or did you say stay with 30? i can't remember.

got some new coffee porter the other night. if you're into that, i can bring some over next time

 

Doesn't Toyota recommend changing the fluid at 60K now?

I put 10w-40 in the motor and

$28 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 in the diffs and tcase.

Also great choice of beer! One of my favorites!!!

 

My apologies. Totally forgot that yours is an Auto, Colin. Personally, I would not go 100k on a fluid change, but rather something more similar to what other vehicles had years ago, before this "lifetime fill" crap.

I use ATF in my manual, and it has already been changed twice...

To keep things simple, like Brady said. 40 weight.

Haven't tried that porter before, so all about it.

 

haven't done it yet, but supposedly the autos are a bitch to fluid swap. i would assume the manual is easier. if you're up for it, i'm game for a fluid day/eveing. my schedule is pretty free, so let me know and i'll bring the beer.

also, if Robert left the cracked header there, or is coming back sometime soon, i can bring the welder and seal it back up.

 

For the A750 both e and f use world standard fluid (WS) and it is "non serviceable" and needs no changing. I personally think thats crap. The fluid itself is fantastic but the interval is ludicrous. I have done a drain and fill on toons truck and on Lucario I did a flush at 93,xxx. If you need help I'll be more than happy to do so. I even still have one or two qts of ws leftover. And Colin I appreciate the offer, (I'll need it) I can come down to houston whenever.
Edit. I would go with the redline 5w30 as it has thicker oil film at normal temp than a petroleum 10W40, yet much less resistance. The oil psi on Lucario is 10 pounds more then another 30 weight I have used so far. for an ex at idle at 82 c when most oils are at 20 psi the redline is at 30.

 

What kind of welder

 

Fusion welder. ^_^

 

Its a super mega awesome dynamite bonding welder.

 

What benefit is there to running the ATF in the manual? I know I have heard that a lot of modern manuals run ATF right out of the factory, not sure if that is true though.

I haven't done it myself but the hardest part is just getting the tranny to the right temp. Toyota just recommends a drain and fill, which only changes like 3 of the 12 qts that are in there. You just drain it, put some back in and then run the engine to get the fluid to the right temp, not too cold yet not too hot, and then top it off at that point. The hardest part is just getting it up to temp.

Here is a write up on how to change all the fluid, which I plan to do at 60K miles, but I still have over 30K to go so it will be a while.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/6...09-diy-full-automatic-transmission-flush.html

 

HF wire feed

shhhhh, don't blow my secrets.

 

Make and model is what im looking for

 

Ah, i don't know off the top of my head what model. I'll look at it when i get home from work and shoot you a PM

 

Edit: 40WT oil? Dude it gets cold here...(record is -54F, but -20F is common). I run 5W in the winter so the engine starts.

 

given your power goals it would probably be cheaper to go to an ls motor although if you wanted to keep the "factory" motor to get the 400bhp your looking for and keep it n/a you would probably need to bore and stroke it as well as bump the compression a bit

 

I'm not stuck on N/A. I just don't know anyone that's boosted that doesn't have problems. (myself included, I also have a Duramax that is as reliable as a hammer....except for the turbo, but it's one of those goofy variable vane jobbies.)

 

Redline makes both 0W-40 and 5W-40. I debated going with 5W-40 but decided to go with 10W-40 just cuz it's more common, don't know why that matters... haha

You will have a hard time getting 400HP out of this motor and at that point reliability is out the window because it is putting so much stress on everything. URD's S/C kit can put out just over 400RWHP but that is pretty much maxing it out.

I don't think anyone has managed to achieve 400 RWHP with the TRD S/C yet.

So 400 BHP might be within reach, but not with hurting reliability more than you probably want to accept.

 

The age old question; how fast can you afford to go? The first motor I built was a SBC 383 stroker, 475HP all motor. I had about $10K into it, and got almost 800 miles out of it before I cracked the block. I learned a valuable lesson though...you need a solid foundation to build a power house. I'm not sure the foundation is that solid on the 1GR, but I'll gladly watch torspd and others find out.

 

You read his build thread. Look at how many motors he has "learned" on now haha

For your case, I think you nailed it, the 1GR is not a solid enough platform to push out 400BHP reliably.

For the X-runners and guys like Tor that never leave pavement, reliability is trumped by the need for more power. haha

 

325 whp is approximately 400 BHP. That is easily reachable with the TRD or other boost adders.

Will get to the other comments later tonight, when I have time.