What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Thanks! Only one set left now

 

Is there a way to contact him to order one without having to sign up on the forum as a member? I can't find a link to check current prices and ordering info. I like the relay control.

 

its a sweet box. I have it. But i built my own setup. Costs way more to get one and setup then the prices he has. About 110 shipped each.

 

Here's everything you need to know about it:

Quoted from this thread:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/352802-auxiliary-fuse-relay-panel.html

Looking for an elegant solution to controlling your Auxiliary lights and other devices? Fog lights, off road driving lights, radio circuits, and any other high power device requires it's own wire harness. You can't just tap into any old wire you find that has 12 Volts in it. It becomes awkward and dangerous to add another wire to the mess on the positive terminal of the battery every time you add a new device. There are fuse blocks available from Blue Sea and others, but if you also have a relay in your Aux circuit, where do you put that?

With quality parts from major vendors, I have developed a weather resistant fuse/relay panel that can be mounted on top of a wheel well or on the inner fender wall in the engine compartment, and will serve as a central hub for 5 relay switched Aux circuits and up to 5 always on fused Aux circuits. You run only one wire to the battery and with your switches and wires, you can control up to 10 Aux devices (5 switched and up to 5 fused).

My Aux Panel can greatly simplify your wiring. There are only two color coded wires for each relay--a skinny wire and a fat wire. The fat wire is the wire you connect to your device. The skinny wire is the control wire and is connected to a switch that you provide. When you order, you will specify whether you want the relay to be activated when the control wire is switched to ground or when the control wire is switched to 12 volts (hot). Regardless of how the relay control is configured (switched ground or switched hot), 12 Volts is supplied to the fat wire of the same color (or shade thereof) when the relay is activated. That's all there is to it. Using my Aux fuse/relay panel will take the complexity out of wiring your aftermarket devices.

The main power lead is a 10 gauge 36 inch wire that is protected by a fusible link. Please specify if you will need to locate the fuse/relay block farther than 36 inches from the battery. Mounted on the brackets, the relay module is 5 inches tall, and at the base of the mount brackets, it is 7 inches by 3.5 inches. So a good way to test for fitment is to cut a 7 inch long piece of 2X4 and use that as a model. The main power lead can be lengthened up to 10 feet total length for an additional $10.

Each individual Aux relay circuit is protected by a 30 amp fuse and each non-switched wire is protected by a 15 amp fuse. The total simultaneous load on the relay/fuse module should not exceed about 60 amps.



Options:

I have included 3 schematics for the 3 different ways the Aux fuse/relay block can be configured. There are three default options: Config A, Config B, and Config C.

Config A: In this configuration, the relays are turned on by switching the relay control wire to ground. This is the simplest configuration. There is no need to locate and tap into any vehicle wires for this configuration. However, if you wish to use switches with indicator LEDs in them, or if you wish for the relays to be disabled when the ignition switch is off, you should consider Config B or C.

Config B: In this configuration, the top three relays are switched on by 12 Volts that comes from the battery or ignition. The obvious advantage for an ignition activated/de-activated relay is that you won't run your battery dead if you accidentally leave something on. Any switches with an LED indicator will require this option. The bottom two relays are configured with switched ground just like all the relays in Config A.

Config C: All the relays in this configuration are 12 Volt switched. For Config B and C, I provide a 15 amp fused non-switched wire coming out of the relay module that you can use as a 12 volt source for the switches or whatever else you would like.

Option A:




Option B:




Option C:






Pricing/Contact:
Some confusion about this. I had to temporarily suspend making these while I adjusted to a new job. Things are settling down at work and so I have started making these again. The cost is $95 plus $15 shipping anywhere withing the USA. Let me know what you want. My email is wiredwagon at comcast dot net.

 

Thanks. I like it, but the price is well above what I want to spend. Not saying it is not worth it, because relays and all can be expensive, but just more than I am wanting to spend. I will probably stick with the BlueSea.

 

"This item is out of stock."

lol... TW

Edit: The price of my two extra ones just went up!

 

Yeah, but by the time I bought a BlueSea fuse block, the relays and wiring I would need I will have spent more than what that relay/fuse block costs.

Haha wow...

 

We sell a lot of BlueSea and Cooper/Bussman here at my work...

 

The dynamics of TW makes me giggle as compared to other forums.

On others usually the main man will be like "I'm getting 35s" so everyone is like "I'm getting 35s too!"

And then there's TW...OH MAH GERD, LIGHTBERBS!


I want them too

 

TWers appreciate the little things

 

Everybody is so broke and wants to do something to their trucks! Haha

 

I'd love to be able to drop serious coin into Ol' Red at the drop of the hat. But alas... he's still stock after 175,000 miles

And if you want the two extra bulbs I have for our truck you can have them for $74.99

 

Who's broke? I'm considering the possibility of Icons next month.

 

Haha well I'm not broke either, but I don't need to spend more money on my truck! I thought you were looking into different vehicles?

 

I've convinced myself that Icon C/Os and a Marlin Crawler Lefty geared for 4.71 will fix my hip issues.

 

Haha right

I'm too broke right now, so I'll be getting rear Icons first haha

 

Got my backup led lights...anndddd it started snowing soon as I come out of the post office

 

Yep that's where I got it from & oooh I like those shelves, I ought to think about doing something like that

 

Hmmm, those pics on their site for comparison are BS, because the bulb on the right is meant for a reflectorized housing, and they have it naked. Also, a flood pattern is better than a projected beam for backing and turning. I am sure they are brighter than stock, but I think their sales pics are misleading, and there are probably better options for this application.

 

How about a beer and a sandwich to sweeten the pot????