fluid film on rust??

Good gosh.... some of ya'lls pics are scary.

I hate the heat, but I guess that's one plus for living in the southeast. Nobody ever even touches the undercarriage, except maybe a pressure wash once in while after mudding or trips near the coast.

 

I suppose you're right...its actually the first time I've ever used it. Its dirty and the detergents are no good... there's just no way I'm going to let my second Tacoma get eaten alive by the rust-belt! Try something new next year!

 

rusty exhaust has been an issue for my older vehicles. Anyone have a trick up their sleeve to prevent rust on exhaust components (muffler, pipes, etc). I wondered about using BBQ spray paint.

 

Don't think.there is much you can do about that. I'd assume that even the high temp paint won't hold up. Probably only thing is replacing it with stainless.

 

+1 I got very tired of looking at my '10's rusty exhaust ........ replaced it ( Cat back ) with a Magnaflow.

 

Yep. Got the TRD cat back. Looks much better. Except everything before it is rusted.

 

Gonna be trying this soon.

 

The MSDS lists Health - 0 Fire - 1 Reactivity - 0
It also says that it causes irritation and should be flushed with water on eye or skin contact, and it will cause respiratory irritation from exposure without respiratory protection.

Handling and storage: Avoid contact with skin and eyes

It is not highly toxic, but it is also not something you can take a bath in. Its toxicity rating is based on exposure levels encountered with normal application and use, but they do recommend fresh air ventilation during application.

Yes, there are a lot of products that can be refined from petroluem, and this stuff contains it.
We won't know and can't find out how much or exactly what it is... that is proprietary information.


BTW: The MSDS for motor oil is very similar....

http://www.rwsidley.com/MSDS/unocal.pdf

MSDS for used motor oil indicates a cancer risk, and the above MDSD likewise refers to the cancer risks of used motor oil, but it does not specify that for the new product, and even indicates that ingestion may result in digestive irritation.

Fluid Film MSDS lists Health - 0 Fire - 1 Reactivity - 0
Motor oil MSDS lists Health - 1 Fire - 1 Reactivity - 0

We handle items every day with similar ratings, and worse ratings.

 

Considering the price of a gallon of bar and chain oil I would not use used motor oil. For $10.00 I got a gallon of bar and chain and it's much stickier than motor oil but still flows and wicks between layers of welded steel. I've seen some mention the environmental effects of letting drips of oil fall off your truck. There are other considerations to think about as well. What about the environmental effects of having to scrap your truck due to a frame that has rotted out? Drips are few. Many are on blacktop which consists of basically the same thing and is covering much of the built environment already.

I live on a dirt road. This time of year it is frozen in the morning and very dusty. It's the perfect environment for an oily frame. My frame is now covered with a pretty thick layer of wet dirt and it's still building up. I bought 10 plastic body plugs the new trucks are coming with now, sprayed the hell out of the inside of the boxed frame sections at the hole locations and capped them with the plugs.

Would a frame off, sandblast and powder coat be better? Sure but there is no way that's ever going to happen. Instead I want to continue building up this protective layer of crud. I've seen enough vehicles up here with thick coats of dirt and grime underneith due to multiple oil sprays and it saves them. They might not be pretty but they are not rusty.

 

So you want to attract dirt to your undercarriage , leaf springs and moving parts ?

 

Ya... "sticky" is not good. Seems like it might be because it will cling to the surface, but you don't want cling... you want penetration and water dispersal.

"Sticky" would only be good as a sealant over a light oil that would fully penetrate.
Biggest problem on these frames is getting into the boxed portions, and where the steel is double-layered.

Thick and sticky isn't going to get into that unless you dip the frame in a hot Cosmoline tank.

 

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle-qt.html

And for those who claim you can't get into all the nooks and crannies....patience and diligence, my friends; with the right tools and products, it can be done

 

Not sure why anyone would want to but a dirt attracter on the underside of your vehicle when there are products that aren't prone to that

 

If in reference to the Eastwood product, it pretty much sets on contact. Had some overspray and it's an extremely durable coating, not sticky at all. Very simple to apply, as well.

I think the reason we get defensive about products and techniques is because underbody work is a PITA, labor intensive process. I spent 2-3 hrs a day for a week and a half under there prepping and sealing. Simply trying to lead others in the right direction though, maybe I'll snap some photos of my "new frame".

 

I find that Fluid Film, while sticky, also does a great job of water dispersion.

I just glommed on a pint or so of the Fluid Film onto my frame today. I did what I good with just the gallon liquid and gloves. I had about half a spray can left and did the box section right by the known trouble areas as well as the areas I've seen other members run into issue with. I will be purchasing a few more spray cans for the rest of the frame that I couldn't easily get with a brush.

Next year I'll get the kit that hooks up to my compressor.

 

I would have quoted your post if I was referring to it

 

Thanks! I forgot about the plugs... How much did they cost?

 

There are high temp paints out there for this however IME your best off going stainless as mentioned. The reason exhaust systems rust so badly is that for every 10 deg. C increase in temperature the rate of oxidation doubles. I spent most of 20 years fighting rust in the steam plants of engine and firerooms on steel ships where temps are 90-140, high humidity and salt air exposure and you could almost watch steel rust. Every 6 months or so some salesman would get to through to the skipper and we would have to try the latest snake oil. No matter what we tried eventually the environment would always win.

Which got me to thinking about heat (from a relative standpoint) and rust. The OP is in Vancouver, BC which is one of if not the most mild climates in Canada. In the 05 rusted frame thread the truck is in central Ky. which also has very mild winters. And crazyengineer is in Western NC which is where I moved to Mn. from, it is the very Southern most border of snow\salt in the middle Atlantic States and also a very mild and temperate climate. Only 3 vehicles is not enough to be statistically significant however they all share mild winters with only the occasional snow and salt exposure. While a 40 degree heated garage is much nicer to get into your vehicle when it is 10 below zero outside the rate of oxidation is less than 25% outside than inside. The girlfriend is going to be parking in the heated garage this winter and I'll keep the Tacoma outside.

 

I don't think it lasts very long. Sure looks neat though.

 

Cool, thanks for the info!