headlight lens problems

I had my fog lenses crack like that when I was running yellow Lamin-X on them. Too much heat built up and caused that. I got new OEM fogs and no cracks since. Also no effin' Lamin-X either.

 

^^ Oh great. Thanks. I wonder if it is directly reacting with the plastic, or plugging the pores. Did your plastic on the helmet go hard and brittle too?

 

Ok great. Thanks you two. I wonder if it is directly reacting with the plastic, or plugging the pores. I can see the film causing problems due to overheating. Did your plastic on the helmet go hard and brittle too?

 

Yeah, and had tiny spider web cracks in it.. must be the chemicals in rain-x.

 

.....and the 303. Expensive lesson learned. Leave all this stuff off your lenses.

 

That is what I would say also if I were the dealer.

 

BTW, HID's burn at a lower temp than halogen.

the only way having HID's would matter, is some of them are physically longer, especially the flood light bulb ( i melted a fog light lense once like that)

from reading this thread i noticed 1 thing everyone who has this issue has in common...


they all have tacomas that were built since Toyota started making the daytime running lights always on. have the dealer send code to turn them off, i think that will help.

it is FOR SURE not due to HID's I have been running 55watt european (american HID's are 35watt) dual hi/lo bulbs for YEARS with the fog lights and bright lights mod, so when i turn bright lights on BOTH HID bulbs in each headlight are on and the fogs too, not a single problem, only issue i had was when i stuffed the oversized 55watt bulbs in the fogs.


i think its that stupid always on daytime crap personally, just my opinion

cheers,
disco

 

Not sure if new for 2014 but daytime running lights can be turned off at the headlight switch.

 

Ur hids have 1 capsule with minerals.... The bixenon part is the adjustment of a shield that normally blocks a portion of the output or moves the capsule beyond the shield via solenoid.

Therefore the actual heat/draw never changes..... Running bixenon hids in high or low mode doesnt change anything like a dual filament halogen. Unless u have the hid lights with a (comidically) halogen bulb used for highbeams.

Have fun and glare on.




Btw, what brand euro ballasts are u running?

 

Op ur doing urself a disservice by running 8000k btw. But, I hope u get the lense issues figured out.

 

OK, I JUST ERASED THE POST I WAS GOING TO LEAVE OUT OF RESPECT FOR THE FORUM!


first off, before being so arrogant do some reading. no where did i state i had cheap bixenon/halogen bulbs are cheap dual HID wanna be bulbs that just move a little lever!

i use dual 55watt HID XENON HI/LO bulbs as stated, if you need a picture reference i attached one, in my hand from my truck that i just went and pulled out the assembly!

i looked at the ballast for brand and the brackets cover almost all of the housing and i am not about to take more stuff apart to prove a point to an idiot, but the part numbers are on the edge they are MDE-0304, i have 4 of them, 2 for each headlight assembly, and then 2 more for the fog lights, when i take the front apart for the 2005 to 2012 mod i'll get you all the info you want

AND YES IT MAKES A huge DIFERENCE IF YOU HAVE BOTH xenon bulbs firing at the same time verses just 1. in a shared parabolic environment, the light immediate from 2 separate sources that are located at slight offset from each other will produce vastly different spread.


disco

 

Well Thats the first I've seen of a dual capsuled rebased hid bulb.... Nice.

So its 2 running at 55 watts each in 1 housing?

I've only used philips d2s in projectors.... Never tried a dual capsule or single in a halogen reflector bowl.

Arrogant or not, glare on.

 

man you are so right! it amazes me, first that people think they have 8000K lights because if they were they could barely see them! second the higher you go from about 4500k the less light is produced that humans can see.

i have been adding HID's to my vehicles in every possible form for over a decade, i have literally tried EVERY combinition and brand there is.

THE BIGGEST PROBLEM IS FINDING A SUPPLYER THAT WILL PRESENT TRUE SPECS!

if a supplier says he has 8000k, 10,000k, 12,000k just hang up the phone because its a scam, otherwise you are buying boarderline ultraviolet light as headlights? pretty useless huh?

if you want REAL white light like you see in the expensive german cars get bulbs that ACTUALLY produce light at 4500k to 5600k


that is the WHITE light with no yellow and tiny tiny tiny hint of purple that you really looking for.

AND that range produces the most visible light that will actually be seen and will light up the road


hope that helps some folks, sorry i get so frustrated with all these scammers selling garbage to good people


i just now pulled mine out, this is a TRUE WHITE LIGHT 5400K bulb ignited, its pure white, no yellow, no blatant blue etc

cheers,
disco

 

sorry if i was a little harsh bro, been a long nite

but yes there are 2 seperate 'bulbs' if you want to simplify it, each headlight has 2 55watt balast.

i got them years ago, they were about $200 for each bulb, i think now you can get cheap chinese ones for like $40 each, like everything else when stuff gets cheap your like DOH! I shoulda waited, but oh, well, they work GREAt and if you need alot of light, when you do mod to have both light together it really does help! so maybe check em out, think you like them, just dont be a sucker and fall for any like 6000k 8000k 12000k scam, stick to reputible sellers, and go max a TRUE 5600k it will be white as white can be, promise you never look at a cheapo blue so say 6000k or whatever bulb again. if you do install some plea let me know what ya think or post some pics, also i HIGHLY suggest openning the casing and removing that stupid dome shield, the HI/LO HID have the designed correct lil shield, works great

have a good one bro, and again sorry for coming off so harsh

cheers,
disco

 

Yep.... You're screwed for getting any warranty work done with those. I did the BHLM on my 2011 with no issues but I sold the truck within about 6 months after. Not saying that is what is causing your problem but the dealer will I can almost promise you that.

On a side note... When I traded my truck in on the 13 they were complaining that they would have to replace the headlights on my 11 because of the BHLM. They said that they couldn't certify it for resale and that it would cost the dealership $1000 dollars to replace. I literally said "HORSE SHIT!, I priced the smoked TRD headlights at your dealership and you quoted me $400 for the pair". "That was MY cost not yours". "The standard head lights will be even cheaper". Manager just looked at me and said... "well, I see you've done your homework".

 

I guess he's never been to TW where a lot of us do our homework and know stuff.

 

Right????

 

Huh. Well I just learned something today. Thank you!

 

I wonder if I could be because I'm using a new wax. I recently switched from Maguires to mothers carnuba hard wax, maybe I didn't completely wipe it off. I don't think I've ever put rainx on them so I don't think it's that

 

I seriously doubt it.