2005 tacoma 2nd gen terminal frame rot rust cancer

near the gas tank

 

Do you guys never go under your trucks to lube or to make sure everything is tight.I would never of let any type of rust to get that far.I live in Colorado and use my creeper once a month to go under my truck!

 

It's not like I found this rust all of the sudden...been complaining to Toyota since 2009 about it. Not much you can do...you scrape and paint and then Toyota will completely deny any sort help..honestly I have one 4 cars and this is the ONLY one that has ever had a rust issue including my '88 dodge shadow with 190k. Never knew you had to start working on a brand new truck on day one.

 

This is the stuff ?

$48 Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti Rust for Bare Metal Painted Surfaces Qts Black

http://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Black-Heavy-Duty-Cavity/dp/B001E7V2KU

Here's a review
"this black antirust is ok when applied thinly. anything else, it runs and drips all over the concrete. could have been the 100 degree day it was applied but i doubt it. the amber antirust did not run this bad."

Is this the stuff ?

http://www.amazon.com/Amber-Heavy-A...keywords=Eastwood+amber+Heavy+Duty+Cavity+Wax

 

Interesting you mention "linseed based etc" - I've been spraying my frame with linseed oil once a year. It dries and does not drip after it dries. It is amber.

 

Just saw this thread, so I don't have to filter through 30 pages, what is the verdict? Has Toyota responded?

 

They are deciding on a case by case basis - no official recall yet.

I just got mine back after they did a "courtesy" frame replacement on my '05 due to rust through.

 

I considered a paraffin mix for the internal frame and mentioned how effective it is for rust proofing steel traps in another thread.

" I know wax works I used to boil my traps in a 55 gal. drum with sumac tops after they turned from red to black (same thing as hot bluing with salts for a gun) and then pull them up through a top layer of melted paraffin and pine pitch. Prevents rust in water sets and scent proofs them for land sets, steel holds scent like a SOB. Saw about 80 of my old traps in a barn a few years ago and they all still looked brand new. Some are more than 40 years old now."

There is a thread on a home brew paraffin mix on bob is the oil guy.

Looks good to me:


However my concern with using paraffin is that much of the rust on the frame seems to occur around areas that are heated by the exhaust and cats. Paraffin mixes appear to melt around 145 and I worry that they will not stay where they are needed the most on our trucks. Not sure about rattle can commercial mixes.

There is some concern expressed with using permanent type rust proofing products where Toyota would claim it voids any replacement. And that is likely a valid concern. I think FF or Corrosion Free 3000 are the best choices overall, at least for me. I have a very expensive 60 yard long paver brick double width driveway and do not want anything on it at all, so I went with CF 3000 which so far has no drip at all. From testing in Canada it is supposed to be the most effective product there. As long as it is as effective as FF I will be pleased.

 

Door Ding I'd say that I agree with you but seems like I'm always saying it LOL, after awhile it is redundant

I have wondered the same thing about paraffin over a film. One of the reasons that I went with CF 3000 from the start was I think it may be possible with CF. But will give the film about 3 years of annual treatment first to see how it holds up.

 

I posted this in another thread but check it out. Definitely shows how well fluid film prevents rust.
http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f35/rust-protection-fluid-film-vs-xf7-vs-wd-40-a-38007/

 

I had not seen that one before. Somewhere around here I posted a similar test done by a guy on another firearms BBS with Eezox vs. FF. He has done a lot of testing over the years and concluded that Eezox is the best and I think his bias shows through, he claims that Eezox works better than FF. From the pictures he posted it looks like FF is just as good to me. In any event I think in the US from readily available resources FF is the best choice. The Canadian Government did a lot of testing with the military and concluded that CF 3000 was the best at rust prevention overall from what they have readily available. My hope is that CF 3000 will be as effective or more so than FF.

To try and determine this I am using a methodology similar to the Eezox test. For a couple of weeks I have had steel wool sitting in ziplock bags of FF, CF3k, Bar & Chain oil, and a control with nothing on it. Last night I used zip ties to attach them to a scrap piece of 2x4 then ran warm tap water over each piece of wool for 30 sec. (car wash resistance). Then poured 1 1/2 cup concentrated salt water over each piece.



They are sitting in my heated garage where the temp. is usually 38-40 during the winter. That is the temperature where the Toyota owners manual says rust occurs the fastest. And why my truck is sitting outside where it is -9 F right now. Only 12 hours later the control piece already has a lot of rust on it. I expect it will take quite awhile for the other pieces to start showing any rust however.

 

I'm not saying it's a problem, but my initial application of FF dripped maybe 10-15 spots on the driveway for a few weeks after I applied it. I know why it did, because I laid a heavy coat on, especially in the boxed in area and in the hitch area.

I'm sure my follow up applications won't be so bad as far as dripping, but I'd just as soon clean a few spots up off my driveway than ever have to spend a summer scraping, wire brushing and painting my frame ever again.

As far as the Eastwood Heavy Duty AntiRust goes, that may work on areas that haven't been affected by rust yet, but it willflake off within weeks to a month over existing rust. I tried it, it does not penetrate rust like oil or FF. I scraped most of it off, then used mineral spirits, brake cleaner and every other harsh chemical I could think of to get most of it off.

 

Many of us, including myself, that live in Snow States; are watching this tread with earnest. We have to put up with the salt, on the highways.

Being in several automotive businesses; I have seen some vehicles, that were prone to rust through damage. If one type of vehicle in our area, had shown rust through tendencies; usually other vehicles related to that vehicle showed the same problems.

I see the 1st poster is from NY, a salt usage State for sure. Is this going to happen to more vehicles. I suppose, we will have to watch to learn.

oldracer

 

Interesting test, keep us updated. I have also seen the test of steel wool and thought they looked very similar. I'm using Fluid Film and don't live in a heavy snow area, but are roads have been white with salt so far this year.

 

I think that I will start a seperate thread in a few days on the FF, bar & chain oil, and CF3K test. While I am not in a panic yet I'm starting to think that it may be worth looking at other protection methods, at least in addition to the film ones.

The steel wool is hanging suspended in air attached to a 2x4 sitting on an I-beam in the garage so there is no contact anywhere on them except with the air in the garage. They dripped water\brine mix on the floor for a couple of hours, I put red rosin flooring paper under them to keep the water off the floor. The paper was dry this morning. The undersides of all 4 are rusted already. The one thing I know for certain at this point is that if you have a heated garage that is just above freezing I would NOT be using your garage to park your truck!!

Control (raw steel wool):


Bar and Chain Oil. This is very dark rust and almost as bad as the control piece but darker. Brand is Pro Chain and ~1.5 old think I purchased it at Fleet Farm:


Fluid Film:


Corrosion Free 3000 Rust Cure:


IRL the CF3K has the least rust of any of them. But I would not call any of these a winner as I don't want ANY rust on my frame. I thought these would take a lot longer to start rusting.

 

OK now you're starting to scare me DoorDing.... I had the same exact thought about an hour ago standing at the store trying to figure which beer to get for all the guests that have invaded my house this week. Just got home and as soon as I walked in ordered some more Canadian Snake Oil, I used up what I had on the Tacoma.

Takes a while for those dog sleds to deliver down here I could have driven up to Thunder Bay a lot quicker to get some CF3K, and if it was summer would had. Have plenty of FF and Bar & Chain oil already on hand. Know I have some 1" wide mild steel stock so will retry when the CF3K lands. I'll hit the steel with the grinder in the meantime (good call I didn't think of that) and cut some pieces to length.

 

I was actually wondering the same thing about steel wool. In the other test where the guy tested Eezox both looked nearly identical and were both very rusted. Maybe the steel just doesn't stay coated well enough.

 

Under my '06 again today for the 1st time in awhile. Seems to me the rust problem is growing.
How would you guys rate this on a scale of one to ten, ten being the worst?

 

I'd call that a one, mostly because I'm in the rust belt states. Guys in warmer climates would call that a ten, because they are lucky and don't have our weather.

Get on it before it gets worse. Scrape the flakes off and convert the rust with specialized paint. Then choose a rust preventative of your liking to keep it away.