OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

Taco '09

I actually thought the vibration was a wheel bearing, was really surprised that it was the dif. And the $3000 plus estimate just about put me in ICU!

I know that I should replace both of the bearings but hundreds of more bucks at the moment is a problem.

If money were not an issue I would replace both bearings and both shafts and do the bushing.

I am hoping I don't have to replace the shaft as well, do any of you have a guess as to what percentage are bad?

Still looking for the tool set for the ECGS bushing install. Please

 

How about it guys. Anyone out there that can lend some assist to americanrancher with the ECGS tool and maybe close enough to possibly lend a hand?

 

Yes, I'd like to see also, but not enough just to take it apart and look. CV shaft is hardened steel, I doubt a bushing riding on a oil film will leave much of an indication on the shaft.

 

Just my .02 on the wheel bearings. If it's the same bearing I had on my 95 just wait until they go bad. I had one go at 150k (yeah, it wasn't fun tearing down the spindle to send in to the shop), the second was still good when I sold the truck in 2011 at 250k.

The shaft should be fine, but give it a good cleaning and inspection while you have it out.

 

From what I understand. The 1st gens bearings are pressed into the spindle. The 2nd gens are pressed into the hub and bolted to the spindle. Pretty sure there is a difference.

 

Just got the ECGS bushings. Going to try and install next weekend. Got the seal that goes by the bushings. Any other seals needed? Any good instructions? Found good thread about pulling axle but does not have any torques for reassembly. Also have the ECGS instructions. Thanks for any advice.

 

Hopefully you have a good impact wrench. I had one hell of a time getting my axle nut off. Had to use the blow torch method. Result may vary, I'm pretty sure that living in the NE had a little effect on mine

 

^^ Yes there are other seals you will encounter. As a community service I was going to post a list with their part numbers but did a spot check in the parts' manuals today and noticed that a number of them are now noted to be tied to production dates, including the CV axle itself that applies to mid-2008 forward.

For your diff side bearing seal look at the face. This seal was designed to be a directional seal. See the little arrows? Do not do an aftermarket seal here as you will probably not find the directional seal. Toyota parts people have been known to sell you the wrong seal. If your truck was produced from 2004.9 through 2008.5 for the left side you want 90311-47012. The snap ring on the end of the shaft that goes in the diff is 43425-04040. But make sure they cross-check these part numbers with your VIN. For other production dates try giving them these part numbers because they may continue forward to your truck. Just back-check them with your vin.

For the other seals and "O" ring you will encounter inspect them and see if they are leaking or damaged. Make sure you did not dislodge the spring in any of them. The FSM notes to replace them but I think a lot of guys are not replacing them unless obviously bad, and might be regreasing them using waterproof MP grease on the lips of the seals. I am anal about it and replace everything in site since I don't like revisiting the repair.

Funny thing about your other request. All the info on a DIY and torques are actually somewhere in this thread or others re: wheel bearing replacement and CV shaft replacement here on TW. I don't ever seem to have much luck using the TW search function but I google search starting the line with Tacoma. Maybe someone else can readily reference the threads here.

 

Fyi the search tw with Google option works much better than regular search. It's on the drop down menu. Same thing as you were doing without going to Google.com

 

^^ Thanks brian. To others: do it the way brian says.

 

Also!
Make sure you can get your diff fill cap off before starting the job. If you plan on doing a full fluid swap make sure you can get the drain plug out.

You will loose diff fluid, how much depends on the angle at the time of axel removal.

If you do not have an impact for the axel nut, you can place a pry bar in a certain way, through the studs and lever it to the ground to keep the hub from spinning. Then use a snipe on the axel nut.

Also good luck, may the force be with you.

 

Just wanted to thank everyone on this thread- you all talked me off the ledge. I too have the dreaded 35-45 mph vibe that disappears after engaging 4wd. I have the 5100 billys with 3 inches of lift and rear AAL, so I am pretty sure what the dealer would say- especially since they have been a PIA about the TSB for driveline vibration BEFORE I put the lift on (a whole different issue on the other thread). But after reading the WHOLE THREAD it is apparent the solution is NOT with the dealer, but with ECGS and for a whole lot less than a new diff that will have the same problem again. So instead of selling my 2013 dblcab, iam going to get the bushing. Can anyone gude me to a 4x4 shop in N Colorado that knows how to do the ECGS install?

 

Subd. Just ordered the bushing. I'll be doing this soon. Will report back when I can

 

Have to say... I was about to post a "have this strange vibration," but figured I should do some searching first. Thought it was going to be a wheel bearing, then I found this thread...


Bushing ordered and looking forward to getting rid of that drone from the front end...

 

I haven't noticed a drone (yet) but I definitely have the vibration that goes away when I put it in H4. Less than 20K miles on the truck and only about 5k of that with my OME lift on it. Might be looking into this fix sooner rather than later.

 

I've got the droning vibration. 8,000 miles on the truck and 7,200 miles on my lift. I've got the bushing and puller, new lube. Just need a 35mm socket and a dry day off to take care of this.

 

^^ how many miles you got? Its possible to have a wheel bearing in addition to the side bearing, its been known to happen. Might want to inspect them while you are going to this amount of work anyway.

 

^^ Lucky you. BTW, thanks for posting the torques. The other one that many will be asking about is the axle nut itself. It is 173 ft. lbs. Don't go over or under this value as it will shorten the life of the wheel bearing. This value is for clean, dry threads not ones that have been lubed or had anti-sieze applied. And whatever you do, don't just guess-a-torque. You will be sorry.

Good luck on your fix.

 

I had the growling noise from right front and replaced wheel bearing. Noise gone. Last month left front started growling, turning wheel caused noise to disappear just as it did for the right front. Replaced bearing and noise gone. Few weeks ago left front wheel started to vibrate. Lugs had loosened, 2 studs broke off. Towed home and needed vehicle so I put old bearing back on until I could replace studs. No growling noise with old bearing on!! The bearing is bad because I can feel sloppiness. Don't know why there's no growling noise. It was loud and getting louder before replacement.