n0rth's Tacoma build

I'm trying to see if I can get any more, I think they are built to use the full extension of the ORI and internal bump.

 

Right Jerry made them to use the internal bump before binding due to what happened on Alex's truck.

So I thought it would have already been getting all the travel you could.

 

Remember there is an internal air bump in the last 2" of the stroke. They were set up the way i set them up so you were not riding on that air bump the whole time. I dont think your going to get more usable down travel without damaging somthing. The CV's are pretty close to binding the way they are set up now. If you want to run lower pressures maybe we can add the resi's. Also the lower chamber is going to have more effect on the softness of ride then the upper chamber.

 

At ride height its showing 7" of chrome on the cylinder, so I'm on the air bumps all the time if they are set at 2". When I spoke to ORI he said the air bumps were set at 1". My thought isn't so much about gaining usable down travel as it is to have them ride lower in the stroke and off the air bumps. There are no gains just a more effective arrangement by taking unused up travel and trading it for unused down travel to get off the bumps.

 

Sounds like you just have them up too high..

 

The bumps are are the bottom of the stroke of you have 7" of shaft showing at ride height your on the limit end of the stroke.

 

Exactly, I'm trying to get it back to the effective part of the stroke but still achieve the ride height I need to clear. By flipping the top-hat tonight it was 5" of chrome at ride height showing so it worked, it was just to much so I had to come up with another way. Which is going with original set-up and 1/4" spacers so I can dial it in incrementally.

 

I think the LBJ binds before the OEM CV's actually bind. JW has Cardone CV's that seem to bind sooner than the OEM's. I took it to full droop and full stuff without the shocks in and measured wheel travel at the hub, as well as measuring full droop with the ORI in. The ORI's stop you about a 1/4" before the LBJ binds. It felt like a pretty harsh stop though. Both JW and I noticed it would make a good bang sound when it bottoms out. We raised the pressure in the lower some which helps, but then you have to raise the upper pressure even more to achieve the same ride height.

Like JW said, we had like 1" or less of shock travel left at ride height and about 2.5" of shock travel left at full stuff so there is room to move the shock around some.

 

Yeah I know there is more shock to play with but moving it your putting pressures on your suspension and CV's at full droop. You could set them longer but you will need to run limit straps. Also how high are you guys setting the ride height it seems you guys are setting up pretty close to full droop at ride height.?

 

I set mine at 3 1/8-3/8 of lift, trying to keep about 6 3/4 of chrome so 1 1/4 away from full droop. Its very similar to the 886's and 1/4 spacer that I was running lift wise at those settings. I think once all said and done limit straps will be part of the equation. I think Brady has more range up/down on his running 33's than I do running the 36's.

 

With the spot that JW said, I think that puts us pretty close to 3" of lift. I am riding higher than that right now though and need to let some pressure out I think. I just got off the instate and it has the full 8" showing on the passenger side and 7.75" on the driver...

I don't know if I will do like JW and run a spacer/flip the top hat yet. We'll see where I ride when I get my SUA kit installed and level it out.

 

Nice truck man!!

 

To me sounds like you and brady just have the lift bug haha saw it go up and just kept going and going..haha if you can do .ike 2.5-2.75'' lift sounds like you'd be better off..cause even i fyou move the shock down you'll need limit straps and you'll still only have like >1'' down travel so whats the point? I mean i get you don't want to be on the bumps the whole time buy why not just lower the lift a bit?

 

1" of shaft travel is about 2" of wheel travel though. When I get my fill kit I think I will lower it down to about 6.5" of shaft showing which should give me about 3" of wheel down travel.

JW was leveling out his ride is why he set his where it is. We just matched mine to his but it climbed up since so I need to lower it some. I just drove about 100 miles home with the supspension at full droop... talk about bro lean... I want the lift to achieve ground clearance. I always get high-centered...

 

I set mine at 6 1/2" of chrome when it was all said and done today (back to the same set up as yours). After running one side flipped one side regular and seeing the difference, On the drivers ride height was showing 5" chrome compared to the passenger at 7" to make them equal. So spacing it a 1/2" should end up in 6" range, I checked it and had no bind at full droop.

 

Does it bump harshly still with less ride height? I'm wondering if I bump so harshly because I am riding in the bump zone.

 

Seemed to smooth it out, 740 Driver 720 Passenger 120 lowers. I think getting out of the bumps is going to be the key for getting a better ride. Playing with the struts at low pressure in the upper and a full charge in the lower drooping it out you can feel the bump as it droops out and then pulls it back up. I figured out yesterday you can pull the strut out without pulling the tire (although its easier with it off but had to try it) off.

 

Can you pull the strut and get it back in with it pressurized? I want to flip mine so it's not rubbing on the CV boot anymore...

 

I decreased the pressure in the upper chamber to get it in and out, I wouldn't try it under pressure.

 

Damn...