TRD Supercharger Maintenance

I recently purchased a 2010 Tacoma DCSB TRD Sport 4x4 with TRD Supercharger. I wasn't looking for a supercharger, nor had I really even given one much thought, but the truck had everything else I wanted and the price I wanted so I pulled the trigger.

Other than premium fuel, what regular maintenance is required? Are there any additional maintenance or care issues I need to be aware of? Any signs to watch or listen for that might signify something wrong? I tried searching but couldn't find a definitive list. I'm not extremely mechanically inclined and just want to take as good of care of it as possible.

I appreciate the help, in advance.

 

1. Iridium Spark plugs 100k Miles? I think the milage is correct on those plugs. When the super charger was installed so were the iridium plugs. By the way you have to remove supercharger to get at drivers side plugs.

2. Oil in super charger. I think this is 100k as well. My understanding is you take a syringe or somthing like that and remove old oil from a plug on supercharger and then add new. TRDparts4u has a maint. kit under TRD catalog and spare parts. I just looked again for this and can't find it but I know I have seen this maint. kit on TRDparts4u website.

3. Intercooler pump is week watch it. Ford or Bosch are good replacements for less cost than OEM.

4. Supercharger belt. This goes without saying

Have Fun!!!!!!! And welcome to Tacoma world, God help you wallet.

 

There is a thread about a member having a supercharger installed and the dealer took it for a joy ride. This thread had the install manual with all the torque specs for when you pull to do the plugs. You should save this I will look for it.


http://www.tacomaworld.com/out.php?...ELk8tC&sig=AHIEtbQL8nyvr7IO6giFNtw8M9VzLi0RdQ

 

Thank you for quick responses and helpful information, guys! 100k will probably roll around within a year so I really appreciate it.

 

No need to pull the supercharger to do the drivers side plugs. 1/2 drive plug socket, a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, 2 3" 3/8 extensions and a standard 3/8" and short swivel 3/8" ratchet. Took me just about an hour. One thing I noticed is that the drivers side plugs looked as though they were runnin lean while the passenger side looked normal. Maybe this is why they come from the factory with 2 different brand plugs when NA?

Using the 1/2 to 3/8 adapter puts the end of the 1st extension just above the valve cover to easily spin the plugs out by hand once the are broken loose.

 

Will give this a shot later on.... Thanks for the tip

 

You'll need to remove the rear sc mount bracket and the check valve above the front coil pack on the drivers side as well as move the attached valve assembly forward to acces the front coil connector. The drivers side plugs were REALLY stuck in there. Must be more heat on that side or something. Front one was stuck in to the point where I became concerned that the tech who installed the supercharger might have cross threaded it, but eventually it came out fine. Don't forget to tape the spelt to the adapter and the 1st extension so you don't loose them in the spark plug hole

 

Got any pictures? I read this before doing mine and struggled for hours trying to do what I was told I could do. I was unable to get the first one in front and that was the easiest. I eventually pulled the s/c which was actually easier than the hours I wasted getting nowhere.

 

Unfortunately I did not hae the time to doccument it. I can give you steps I took if you like but that's all I've got.

 

Here's a quick rundown on how I did it on my 2010:

Start by removing the two breather hoses on the side of the intake tube of the supercharger. On my truck, one of these had a clamp, and the other did not. Make sure you pay attention to which hose was attached to which port.

Next, remove the clamp on the front hose of the valve that sits above the front coil pack. It looks like a small cylinder with a hose coming out either end Once that hose is removed, you can bring the valve back around the other hoses (which I believe are fuel lines, there are two of these attached to hardlines coming up the driver side fender on the inside. I did not remove them, I would not recommend removing them as fuel will most likely leak out.) Move the valve and its attached hose down out-of-the-way.

Next, remove the bracket holding the hose that's attached to the value just removed from the oil fill tube. This bracket was attached with the 10 mm nut on my vehicle. Once you remove the nut, you can lift the bracket up and off of the stud, bring it forward enough to allow you to release the clip on the coil pack for the first cylinder.

Next, remove the upper and lower bolts of the brace supporting the supercharger and remove that black brace. The brace I am referring to is in between the second and third coil pack.

There is another breather hose attached to the bottom of the intake tube of the supercharger, which goes over to the intake manifold area. You need to remove this hose as well in order to access the third coil pack on the drivers. They are simple squeeze clamps you can use your hands to loosen and then slide the hose off of the ports.

Once you have removed the hoses and the bracket, you should be able to push the fuel line hoses down and out-of-the-way in order to access the 10 mm bolts holding the coil packs on. With the bolts removed, you will have enough room to lift the coil pack up and out of the spark plug hole. It's a little tight, but there is just enough room to slide them out against the bottom edge of the supercharger.

Plugs in my truck on the driver side or really well stuck in there. The next issue you will come across, is that there is not enough room to move the ratchet handle when you are inside that area working. I use the snap on ratchet to do this because the gearing is much smaller and the more precise inside the rachet head, and when you move the ratchet very slightly you move it more clicks than you would with something like a serious rachet which has much larger detents in the ratchet mechanism. On the very first plug I used my 1/2" drive spark plug socket, 1/2" to 3/8" inch adapter, a 3 inch 3/8 drive extension a swivel, and a foot-long extension to the ratchet up beside the supercharger in order to get enough torque to break the spark plug loose as there was not enough room to move the ratchet inside. Once you cracked the spark plug loose, I removed the swivel, and the foot-long extension and used the short 3/8 inch swivel ratchet I had to remove the plug. Once the plug is completely loose, remove the ratchet and remove the extension and the socket and the plug as one.

On the middle cylinder, I was able to use the standard size ratchet underneath the supercharger with two 3/8" extensions as there was just enough room to move the ratchet handle to break the plug loose. As before, once the spark plug has been broken loose, you can use the single 3" extension and the small swivel ratchet to remove the spark plug from the cylinder head. Once it is loose remove the ratchet from the extension, and remove the extension socket and spark plug as one.

The third and the farthest back cylinder was one of the most difficult to get the coil pack out, but it will just fit out without removing the supercharger. As with the other two breakfasts fuck plug loose with 23 inch extensions and the standard size ratchet, then use a single 3 inch extension and the small swivel ratchet to fully loosen the spark plug, then remove the smaller ratchet, and remove the spark plug socket and 3 inch extension as one.

Be sure you use anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs, I was able to spin them in by hand because I used the 1/2" adapter and the single 3/8" 3 inch extension. I did this because when the spark plug is screwed all the way in you still have about three quarters of an inch of socket extension above the valve cover in order to turn it by hand.

Once you have the plugs changed, install the hoses and brackets in the reverse order of removal. Hopefully this helps out some people who are having difficulty in this area. If you have any questions feel free to PM me

 

Quoted.....because sometimes things go missing

 

Awesome Thread guys. I have a question about the SC belt. I've always liked Gates belts for everything. I recently looked on the gates website to see what I needed. It says I needed K050705, that is the accessory belt w/ Supercharger. I buy the part and it says K050705 and 5PK1793. The TRD belt diagram i have says

$22 5PK1790 OEM Quality Serpentine Belt

5PK1790. I can't find a Gates belt that says 5PK1790. Anyone else have this issue?

 

I had this issue^^

tried running ALL gates belts on my supercharger

you have to get the toyota specific one--worth it, cheap

good thread here


ANYONE in Colorado rebuild these things for 'fun'

haha hit me up..I have cash an trade--or maybe direct me to someone that's done it before

thanks

 

i work for toyota and they recommend sending the superchargers out at 100k to pse superchargers for the 100k maintenance. i guess they inspect the bearing and couplers and change the oil for a reasonable price. they also offer porting and stuff. im gonna call them today and ill post what the prices