NWXPDTN - 04 TRD 4x4 XCab

Looks good David. Vaguely familiar.

 

Thank you both! I've learned a ton from this forum and definitely have had some excellent inspiration!

 

Sub'd real good lookin' truck! and just a hop, skip & piss away! Hi from a few miles down south

 

Go cougs! I graduated from WSU as well!...

 

Sweet build man!

 

Coug fans are far & few in between on the west side of the mountains. Glad to see another WSU alumni-- Go Cougs!!

 

sweet truck! i like the coug plate. good to see another coug on here!
*current student

 

Beautiful truck man!!

 

I recently installed a Warn M8000. Along with that, I relocated the control box to the engine bay for weather and longevity concerns as well as installed some switches in the cab to control the winch (in addition to the Warn wired remote).

Here's the final product:

 

Parts
12-15 ft of 2-gauge wire
2 gauge terminals
2 gauge solder slugs
~ 6" of 9/16" heat shrink
Assorted screws

Process
This is pretty straightforward. All we're doing is creating longer cables than the ~16" ones that come with the winch so that we can move the box into the engine bay. The location I choose was 4' away from the winch connections so I used 12' of 2 gauge wire cut into three 4' pieces.

The solder slugs are awesome. Cut the insulation on your wire so that it can slip into the terminal. Place the terminal in the vice and put 1 appropriately-sized solder slug in the end and heat with a propane torch. Once it melts, keep the heat on and push the wire into the terminal until it seats. Remove heat. Allow to cool and slip on heat shrink and apply heat (I use a simple BBQ lighter) until it contracts, sealing the connection.

Mount the box as desired and "connect the dots": A on the solenoid goes to A on the winch, F1 to F1 and F2 to F2.

Easy.

Next post will discuss wiring up the in-cab controls.

 

Very nicely done. Lets go test it. Gotta make sure everything is working...right?

 

This part is a little more complicated, but it's not too bad. This is a rough guide and I may forget some steps, so attempt at your own risk. Hope this is helpful though!

Here's the end result:


Parts
Crap-ton of 16- or 18-gauge wire
Your desired switches
Female spade connectors (insulated recommended)
Soldering iron/gun
Solder
Heat shrink
Etc.

Process
I used switches from OTRATTW. They look great and are really nice switches. If you're using different switches, you'll have to adjust the wiring appropriately. If you get the same switches as I did, it will wire up as shown above.

I used THIS SWITCH for the winch power switch (the second In/Out switch has no power until this switch is turned on). I am using the simplest SPST switch. Part number V1D1BN0B.

For the second switch, use a DPDT (very important) Momentary On Off On switch. I used THIS ONE. Part number VLD2U66B-00000-000. You need the DPDT because the 5-pin-style Warn winches switch the ground for the In/Out functions and we have to do the same with the in-cab winches.

Notes
OTRATTW wiring diagrams here: V1D1BX0B and VLD2UXXB (or view all)

I spliced into my green, white and brown wires by creating a little cut in the insulation and soldering in-line. I prefer solder over a quick connect for longevity, but it accomplishes the same thing. A little electrical tape and a small zip-tie around the solder joint ensures it won't be shorting anything out.

If, after you wire this up and you winch goes In when you push "Out" and Out when you push "In", simply switch the white and green wire into the switch and it will sort it out.

You can combine grounds. I created a ground wire that split into 3 so that I grounded the two pins on the second switch and the LED ground on the first switch with the same wire.

As I said, hopefully this is helpful. Happy to help with any questions...

 

absolutely! i'm hoping to make it out to a NW meet here one of these days when my work schedule finally allows it!

 

looks good man thanks for info.

 

I put two OTRATTW switches in the same spot, good choice

 

nice truck
I was wondering how those 4.88's were treating you?? Bout to regear mine and was looking for some input

 

x2 wondering how that feels with your 285s and... manual transmission?

 

IMO, 4.88s with an auto is the perfect combination. The power and throttle response is back to where it was with 31's and no extra armor and winch weight.

The gearing in the 5-speed is a little different from the auto and also, 285/75-16s are a tad smaller than 33x12.5-15s or 33x10.5-15s so your highway RPMs might be a little higher than mine. At 70 mph I am right at 2500 rpm.

 

Whoops, I didn't see that he has an auto.
Agreed that 4.88s w/ an auto is the way to go... if it's a 5-speed then 4.56 takes the cake

 

Great build sir. So great I might have to steal some ideas

And now for the (sorry but I have to know) if you go 4.56s, what speedo gear would you need? And where do you get a speedo gear? The stealer ship?