**2005+ Tacoma Double Cab Complete Audio Install Tutorial**

Here are the pics

First is of me squnching the whole boot together and sliding a ziptie attached to the wire through. Helps to have a bit of lube on hand to make the wires not rub much. I was surprised at how much you could compress the boot together.

 

Tried this method today, you have to have tiny hands to get in between the door and jamb to squeeze that boot together lol

 

This method works great!

 

How do you know what size circuit breaker you need? My amp is at a 80A fuse rating. Would I buy an 80A fuse, or something larger, possibly a 100 A? Or, do I need to add other items for a grand total circuit breaker needed?

 

That depends on the wire you are using. The circuit breaker should be sized for the power wire which should be installed as close as possible to the source.

 

Based in my calculations, going to be using 4 Gauge wire for the power.

 

I am new to this forum, sent Mr. Marv a message and he told me to call him so I did and I am very impressed with his customer service. He gave me tips, advice, links to pictures of his work and audio equpiment. He told me everything I needed to know. We even got off topic a few times. I will definitely buy his product and I encourage anyone who is reading this post to give Mr. Marv a call. Very friendly and knowledgable about audio. Thank you!!

 

I second that! Not only did he provide me advice for an awesome setup for my access cab and build me a rocking sub box, he spent over an hour on the phone with me this last weekend, walking me through tuning the system. It is almost impossible to find that level of professionalism and product support anymore. Wish I lived closer so I could thank him in person.
If anyone would like a picture of the sub box, send me a PM. It is for a 10 inch sub, and I had it professionally rhino lined.

 

How much would you charge to build this box to go behind my seat

 

PM him, great guy to work with. I have a similar set up from him and it rocks!

 

WOW !!!!!

Great job and awesome walkthrough - step by step with pictures..

Thanks for the great post!

 

Yay, first reply this year...just had to for such an amazing DIY. Still waiting for the HU install, lol.

 

Marv... I need to drive down to your shop someday and day Hi! I would love to chat with you and pick your brain.

 

Just give me a call next time you're headed this way!

 

I tried searching (quickly, but I am tired) so I figured I would post my question here and hope for an answer. Thanks in advance.

OK, so I have already upgraded everything in my truck, subs with amp, mids and highs, added tweeters to the rear, and head unit.

Yesterday I got a 4 channel amp for my mids and highs. As much audio stuff as I have done, I have never installed a 4 channel amp.

My question is: When I run the RCA's from behind the head unit, instead of running speaker wire to each door, can I run wire to the wire kit behind the head unit? If that makes sense?

Basically disconnect the speaker wires coming out of the unit that connect to the factory speaker wires and run speaker wires from those to the amp as my outputs? If this makes sense I would appreciate some advice, if not I can try to clarify a bit.

 

Traditionally, it goes like this (seems like you're already aware of this):

Head unit -> RCAs -> Amp -> Speaker wire -> Speakers

Did you replace all the speakers as well? If so, I would highly recommend running new speaker wire from the amp through to the doors.

That said, if I understand you correctly, you want to do this?

Amp -> new speaker wire to back of head unit -> connect to old speaker wire from stock speakers -> new speakers

I don't see anything technically wrong with that but I would recommend against it. I did my entire truck (the first time I ever did a full stereo upgrade) and found running wires through the doors fairly simple. It took some time but it wasn't too difficult.

Another note, this is assuming you had the stock stereo. If you had the JBL unit, you'll have to run new speaker wire. Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

Yes, i think we are on the same page. And with your comment it made me think of performance. By going straight from the amp to the speakers there would be less resistance and interference along the way. That's what i will end up doing. Thanks for the help.

 

Curious, what do you all think of the shallow mount subs versus a regular sub? I am currently using a single 12" Rockford Fosgate Punch Stage 3 (regular sub) in a ported box that sits on the back seat. It hits really hard and I like the sound, but have been thinking of getting a box made for dual 12" shallow mounts so that they can go behind the seats and moving the amps from the storage area behind the rear seats to under the passenger and driver seats for a more stealth looking system. I just don't know if the 2 shallow mounts in a small sealed enclosure will sound as good as the single 12 in the ported box. Thoughts?

 

If you have a system that looks and more importantly sounds great now, why mess with it? I guess if you are going to free up some storage area then maybe you could do it but right now it sounds like you gain no benefits going this route. Maybe you could take some of that extra money and put it into some other nice hardware for your truck.

P.S. I use to live in Charleston (3 different locations), Summerville, Ladson, and Goose Creek. I miss the old days.

 

I lived in Summerville for 2 years but live in West Ashley now. Charleston is beautiful isn't it?