How to Install a Viper 5704 Alarm/ Remote Start

I have been reading a lot on that site...definitely helpful. I think I've ironed out all the wrinkles for the H3 harness, but the only real question left is the H2/18 violet/yellow Starter Output. I have no issues with the relay setup, but I have 0 clue where I'd hook that up to the truck. I don't have a grey/black Starter 2 wire. Is this even necessary?

 

Sorry, but I'm not sure either. I remember reading some things about cars without a Starter 2 wire when I was researching, but that was over a year ago and I didn't pay that much attention to it.

If I were you, I'd ask that question at the12volt. There are a few guys that hang out in that section that really know their stuff. I'd write out everything you're planning (like in the format below) and have the experts over there check it all and make sure you're good to go. That's what I did and they were pretty quick at responding and helping out.


Vehicle: 2005 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner SR5, 4-door, V6
Alarm: Viper 5704 with remote start
Transponder Bypass: iDataLink ADS-TB


Wire___5704 Color_____Tacoma Color_____Tacoma Location
----------------------------------------------------------------------
H1/1___Red__________White/Blue (+)____Ignition Switch Harness
H1/2___Black_________Ground__________Chassis Ground
H1/3___Brown_________NA_____________Connects with siren
H1/4___White/Brown___NA______________NA
H1/5___White_________Green (+)_______Fuse Box (Viper’s jumper set to +)
H1/6___Orange________NA_____________NA

 

Just in case anyone ever comes here with a 1998 looking to install the system, here's my post on the12volt.com. Hopefully someone will take a minute to double check my wiring!

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~135142~get~last#683508

 

I just had a Viper 5706 Alarm/Remote Start system installed in my Tacoma. When I picked up the vehicle I hadn't noticed that my Scangauge was removed and was sitting in the back seat. Apparently the Viper needs to be plugged into the OBDII port in order to work. I'm going to be calling my installer to see if there's a work around, but as it stands right now I can only use one or the other. Anyone know of an OBDII adapter that will allow two connectors to plug into the one jack in my Taco?


Update: I just found a Y adapter that will allow me to plug in both connectors......

 

Something doesn't sound right about you having to have it plugged into your OBDII port. The tach wire is typically connected at the OBDII but on the backside and soldered in.

Do you have a picture of it?

I am thinking what would stop someone from breaking you window and unplugging it from the OBDII port to stop the alarm.

 

I haven't checked the newer systems, but I believe that is part of the new Diagnostic features of the newer Viper systems. Their whole 'CLOUD' thing they are pushing. I agree though, I would have just stripped the back of the OBD and soldered in the connections.

 

They talk about it now being a universal fit for all vehicles that have an OBD port. I thought it was just the tach connection that used to be on the back of the OBD connector, but since they're taking up the entire connector with a plug, I suspect it's more than just the tach. It was dark when I noticed this and I haven't had a chance to take a closer look, but I definitely will. In any case, the Y splitter cable is about $9.00 with free delivery from many places on line. So I've ordered one. This will fix the issue for me.


I don't know this for certain but I think if it's removed you'd only lose the ability to remote start it. But I'll ask my installer what the deal is...... I also sent an email to Viper to see what they'd say. I haven't heard back from them yet but I only sent the email a few hours ago.

 

I don't know if this has already been answered and I hope I am not thread jacking but I have a question that I hope to have answered...

Has anyone considered or tried installing a remote start system using the OEM fob receiver as the initiating signal? I don't EVER use my alarm but was thinking that I could use the signal sent from the alarm button on my OEM fob (received by the OEM receiver) to initiate the remote start rather than using an after market fob... Is this possible?

 

did u need alarm too?

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/299138-remote-starter.html

they have alarm ones, but I don't know about remote start and alarm?

 

Awesome. Thanks for the quick answer. I tried searching but didn't come up with anything. I don't really care for the alarm. Mainly just want to add remote start to my truck is all.

 

no problem i actually had no idea they existed either, but another member pointed me to that thread

 

I pulled all the posts from there

 

So I got out the flashlight last night and looked at the OBDII port. The installer had put the cover back on the plug and there was a wire running just along side it. In the dark it looked like it was a new connection going to the Viper. It turned out to just be the cover back on the port. So it seems they only use the OBDII port when setting up the alarm and then they disconnect from it. So disregard my prior comments about them taking up the port.

 

I'm actually looking to do a Viper 5904 install before winter really settles in. Doing the research now. Do you know about how long it took you to complete the install? And if you had any troubleshooting once you got everything hooked up?

Need to do some detailed research on a bypass as I may need to purchase one, really started looking into it today.

Thanks in advance.

 

I just hooked up a Viper 5101 remote start system in my truck yesterday. Make sure you have a bypass that works for your truck. I totally missed that I needed on and was wondering why my system was not working. I got the bypass hooked up and it worked just fine.

It may just be me doing something wrong but for some reason my remote start occassionally doesn't work and if I start the truck and stop the truck remotely it will leave my headlights on.

 

Yeah, already checked my key's at work today and saw the little "G" looking at different bypasses now, might just go with the one the OP used. which did you use? likes, dislikes?

 

I used the Xpresskit PKALL. My key only had a dot or cicrle but no "G". Since your truck is a 2012 it says that your truck is covered in the vehicle compatibility chart. It was pretty easy since it was a Directed product plugging into a Directed product but like I said I am still trying to troubleshoot any issues (starting and shutting off or not starting at all).

So far I like it. It's just kind of one of those things that I was really excited for but its been so much of a hassle through the process and issues after that I lost most of my excitement over it. I know it will be nice to have in the long run. Just like the heated leather seats I installed a few weeks ago.

 

I did it a year ago so I could be off a little on the time, but I'm pretty sure it took me around 10 or 11 hours. But I went a little slow on purpose and I forgot to plug one of the wiring harnesses back into the fuse box all the way. Figuring that out took about half an hour of great frustration.

Once I had everything connected, it was just a matter of getting the settings where I wanted. Things like changing the transmission setting on the Viper to automatic (its on manual by default), locking the doors when I start the truck, and having the parking lights on when I remote start it. I didn't have any troubleshooting to do because I took my time and made sure I did everything right.

I'm not familiar with the inside of a 2012, but if on your dash you have the little car symbol with a key in the middle of it, you need a bypass. (see the picture at the bottom of this post) The "G" and the dot on the keys aren't always indicative that a bypass is necessary.

I went with the idatalink bypass because that's what was in stock at the store. It works fine, so I guess I like it. I know other people have used the expresskit ones because they're made by the same company that makes Viper. I don't know if it would be an easier install with the expresskit or the idatalink. If you go with the same idatalink that I used, I might be able to help you out if you have questions along the way. But PepsiManKolt seems like a pretty helpful guy too so he might be able to help you out if you went with the expresskit bypass.

Nearly all of the bypasses are basically an empty shell. You have to load (aka flash) the right firmware onto the bypass. Flashing the firmware onto the bypass is not something you can do yourself. You have to have someone at an install shop do it for you. When I bought my bypass, they did not charge me extra for flashing the firmware onto the bypass.

If you have any questions at all, feel free to ask them on here or just PM me. I'm usually pretty quick at responding.

 

Thanks! So I ended up finding a shop that would do the install for $225, I'm fairly sure im going to go that route. I can get the kit off Amazon for $280, and another $40 for the transponder puts the product and install around $550. Pretty steep I guess, but for $225, even $250 assuming they charge some extra's isnt terrible in my mind in place of all the research and praying i dont screw something up.

 

That seems like a fair price for that install. I shopped around prior to my install and I was quoted similar prices by the stores I went to. Best Buy offered "free" installation, BUT they charged $500 for the unit itself. And its hard to put a price piece of mind. For a lot of people, $225 for piece of mind and a warranty (Viper only warranties units that are installed by certified techs) is a great deal. Enjoy your remote start this winter!