0W20 Oil?

Thanks! It's nice to know I can run the thinner oil if i wanted too

 

True, and that is why I am fine with 0W20 as a WINTER oil (even in usually mild southwest desert winters).

But, in the summer (think Palm Springs, Las Vegas, Phoenix, Havasu, Yuma, etc), there are times when it is 115 degrees in the day, and might cool off to 90 degrees at night....there is really no such thing as a 'cold start'. Here, you have to look at the other end of the equation, and decide if a wimpy 20 weight is going can cut it as a SUMMER oil. I would think this qualifies as one of the "extreme conditions" pointed out by the owner's manual.

As for the 0W vs 5W part of the equation, the fewer VII's in the oil the better, especially in a hot environment.

 

Often, if you look at an identical engine sold over seas (other than North America), they will spec a much heavier oil. Why? They don't have the government butting into what should be purely engineering matters. I guarantee you that there are Toyotas all over the world that are running 10W30, 10W40 and even 20W50 in very hot climates, which would seem very 'old school' here in the US.

 

It sounds like you just want to run a thicker oil.

You should run a thicker oil.

I don't think "cold start" refers to temperatures we perceive as cold, but temperatures that are below normal operating temperatures for the engine. Thus the difference between 90 F at night and 50 F at night isn't really that big relative to the operating temperature of the engine.

 

Like I said previously, I think I will be comfortable with Redline ester synthetic 5W20 as a summer oil, because of its high HTHS (high temperature/high shear, or cP@150 degrees C).

To qualify as 20 weight, an oil needs a minimum HTHS of 2.6. Mobil 1 0W20 gets a 2.7 (allegedly the factory fill and what you get if a dealer changes your oil???), Amsoil 0W20 is also 2.7, Redline 0W20 is 2.9, and Redline 5W20 is 3.0.

For comparison, a 30 or "light 40" (eg. 10W40) weight, must have a minimum of 2.9. And, a "heavy 40" (eg. 15W40, 20W40), 50, or 60 weight, must have a minimum of 3.7.

So, put another way: At an HTHS 2.9 or greater, I will be getting the viscosity protection of at least a 30 to light 40 weight, but combined with the easy pumpability of a 20 weight, and cold start protection of a 5 weight (or 0 weight in winter). (And, I am really happy with the 5W30 I am running in my Yaris and Camry, because it has a moster HTHS of 3.7!)

The best of both worlds is all I am striving for!

 

Then just the oil you want to use and don't bother with the razzle dazzle technical nonsense that means nothing and impresses no one.

Hell, use castor oil if you think it will make your engine run better.

 

Page pp-30 of the Toyota factory service manual for The 2TR-FE it specs 5w-30.

Page Lu-1 says you can use 10w-30 if you need to but to replace with 5w-30 at next service interval.

 

What year??? I will guess 2006 or earlier.

 

I am a (bio)chemist, so "razzle dazzle technical nonsense that means nothing and impresses no one" is what I do every day. Ignoring what is technical nonsense to you, can end up costing my employer millions of dollars, or maybe get someone injured or even killed!

But be a caveman, if that is what you prefer!

 

No, I just prefer to read and abide by the owners manual and manufacturers recommendations with respect to my Tacoma.

Perhaps, that is beyond your capacity.

 

Nahh... that's in the current manual for the V6 (which still requires 5w30)

 

5w/20 must be popular,they never have it at wallyworld.i,ve had it in my 09 4 cylinder.125,000 miles so far.

 

My 2006 owners manual for the 2TR-FEcalls for 5W-30, with allowances for 10W-30.

I've been trying to tell people that the only reason for the drop in required weight/viscosity is to meet fleetwide CAFE standards. I don't think that it was a requirement, but it was an option for doing so.

Take a look at the pamphlet I posted in this thread over a year ago.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/4-cylinder/228640-synthetic-oil-chenges-2-7l.html

 

I wasn't saying that wasn't the case for the 2.7 prior to 2007... My point was that it is STILL the case for the 4.0.
5w20/0w20 is not specified for the 4.0 Tacoma for current years, and previous publications specifying it have been superseded.
The same holds true for the Yaris.


Engines change, oil specifications change.

I suppose you stuck with 10w40 when the manufacturers started specifying 5w30?

 

There seems to be an implicit assumption that thinner oil can't be as good as thick. Recent engines have much tighter bearing tolerances. Thinner oil is more effective in that situation. Thinner oil also is more effective at quickly flushing away contaminants than thicker oil.


I am not an automotive engineer, but wouldn't an engine that runs at 210 degrees, run at 210 degrees, whether you're in Florida or Minnesota? It will just take you longer to get up to operating temperature in the latter case.

 

Bingo.

Unless you are overheating it, temperatures are FAIRLY stable.
Yes, the coolant runs at a consistent 198-202 in the 2.7, but there are warmer areas and it is the job of the oil to carry that heat away and get it to a place where the cooling system can pull it away.
Obviously, your exhaust valves and piston heads are running significantly above 202.

But in general, a 20wt oil is going to be just as good in Death Valley when it's 120+ as it is in BC when it's just above freezing.
The difference is how well the oil performs on cold startup.
There is a difference in oil performance at 0 ambient compared to 100 ambient.... except that the 0w or 5w is superior in both cases.

Thinner oil flows more easily at any temperature, so it gets moving and coats the bearings quicker on cold starts. The counter is film retention. A thinner oil does not "hang around" on surfaces as long when flow terminates, so with a thinner oil there is less oil remaining from the last time the engine was run.
That is where synthetics work to protect the engine. They have better film retention characteristics so there is a better barrier during the first few seconds that an engine is running before the pump is able to pressurize all of the bearings.

The "best" oil weight to use is the lightest weight available that is recommended by the manufacturer for your engine and temperature range.

 

Rich

Well stated....you should make this explanation into a "sticky" so that all the meatheads on here that think thicker oil is better for our Tacomas can read this.

 

No way they're ever going to sticky any oil thread

 

No, that's my Dad, old school mechanic retired a few years ago, and stubborn as ever

I was saying that those people who panic when their dealership accidentally puts 5W-30 in during the 'free oil change' period should not be worried with the 2TR. It can handle the higher viscosity, and it was actually specified for this engine at one time.

I still use the 5W-30 because summers are hot here, and winters are very mild. No real need for thinner oils. Mobile 1 5W-30 is relatively cheap and readily available in this area, unlike the 0W-20, which always seems to be gone or not available when I need to do an oil change.