Idaho BS thread in the PNW

dumb ass

 

I just replaced a 7 year old red top with a new yellow top. I trickle charged the old red top and it came back to life, so I'll use it for my ready welder until it's dead dead. It still started the truck, but was showing 11.8 volts and my amp would cut off on hard hits...it had a tough life. Hoping the new made in mexico optimas are as good as the old ones.

 

yea..okay. haha

 

yea..i guess i have built up too much faith you have actually learned something on here..haha

and nice! can't wait to see them. I am kicking myself for not bring my camera with my to my rehearsal this morning. Some fantastic stain glass work there

 

yup thats how my engin feels

i see one proplem.. a weak battery will stress other electical componets so starter and alterator will end up failing early.. so have fun getting every penny out of that battery..

Interstate (our optima dealler) just came out with a new interstate brand AGM battery that will give out a full 800CCA at 32* and not drop below 11 volts im inlove..

 

Yep... when voltage drops current must go up. That's why some people fry computers and other shit when their battery dies... fuses save you some but not always.

 

Yes it does sort of anyway. Things run on power, not volts or amps but their combination. Power = volts × amps so if the voltage drops the current must increase to make the same power and vice versa.

Take Mike's ARB compressor for example. When he ran it with the motor running and the alt cranking out 14.5 V it worked fine. When the motor was off and it was running on the battery at 12V or less he popped the 40 amps fuses...

I dont know the exact numbers but say it is rated at 400 watts, at 14.5 V it only draws 27.6 amps and at 11 V it draws 36.4 amps. Not a major difference but if thay 400 watts device only has a 35 A fuse it jusy popped it.

 

^yup. Ohm>Kirchoff. If the volts go down, amps must go up to do the same work, as long as resistance stays constant.

 

What you are saying is correct but this is not a good example of it as the core issue on mine turned out to be a flawed design in their internal thermal sensors. Once those were replaced I am able to run the compressor just fine on battery only. Same as you can on yours.

 

Yes I know but the fix most likely lowered the internal resistence/load of the compressor so the wattage was decreased.

 

Is it a spiral cell design?

I have to 2nd the recommendation to be proactive on this and not wait for failure. Especially this time of year. You don't want it to leave you stranded.

I too have had good luck with Optima's over the years in various vehicles. My current D35 yellow top is on its 3rd winter and doing very well. Though not as cold as what you face, it typically sits for a week or longer without any trouble starting. This morning it was ~16*, cranked right up.

 

my truck cranked right up this morning. wasnt as cold as it has been the last few days.

 

all this talk about batteries has me thinking i should probably replace mine too.

almost 5 years old and did NOT like me much yesterday starting at -7*

 

I am in about the same boat. I think mine is 6 or 7 years old but I can't remember for sure. I'll have to checj the date again.

 

mine is an Energizer that was in the truck when i bought it. i'm surprised it has lasted this long.

 

Yeah, they are expensive. But worth it IMO. AGM types are generally more expensive, but for good reason.

I was looking earlier, cheapest I've seen recently was at Amazon. $200. Maybe the rents will get it for you as a Christmas gift.

$283 OPTIMA Batteries High Performance D35 YellowTop Dual Purpose Sealed AGM Car, Truck and SUV Battery, 620 CCA, Maintenance Free, Versitile Mounting

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MSDKMA/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

yup. we just keep going and going and going and going.........

 

just keeps growing and growing and growing